I'm building a utility/camping trailer - 4.5' x 6' bed, 1/8" sheet floor, 2' high 16 guage steel side walls, tailgate and hard lid (framed with 1"x1" steel, skinned with 20 gauge sheet metal), and a removable canoe rack. I'm having a welder fab it, I'll paint and do the finish work. All metal has been purchased and the welder has the main frame done and is working on the sides. The axle should be here and installed next week. Many aspects of the design are inspried by other builds on here.
I'm getting down to some of the details, and I'm looking for feedback.
The 1"x1" tube lid frame will sit on top of a 1"x2" rail around the top of the trailer, hinged at the front of the trailer. I'm putting a rubber seal on the bottom of the lid frame - probably a "D" shape unless convinced otherwise, that will be sandwiched between the lid and rail when closed. McMaster has several options I'm looking at. I'm concerned about how to do a 90 degree corner in the seal without creating a leak point - the goal is a weatherproof interior. For those with hard lids - what seals are you using and are they effective? How did you do the corners? Are there any other seal style suggestions? I know it would have been better to have a flange on the inside of the lid, or to overlap the lid on the outside of the trailer side - neither were possible in my instance given the canoe rack.
Any thoughts on whether one padlockable draw latch on each side (probably mounted midpoint) will be sufficient to keep the lid closed and sealed? I could do 2 on each side of course. The lid should weight about 40 pounds.
The tailgate will be 1"x2" tube, skinned on the inside. I'd like to hinge it on the bottom so that when it opens, it will be level with the trailer floor. My fabricator may be able to fab something but I was wondering about available weld-on or bolt on hinges that will accomplish this. Basically the hinge barrel would need to be dropped down on the rear frame rail, with a flange that can be welded to the face of the tailgate to get the drop needed. Anyone know of a source for such hinges? I'd like a barrel style hinge or the like for removal of the tailgate.
Thanks.
I'm getting down to some of the details, and I'm looking for feedback.
The 1"x1" tube lid frame will sit on top of a 1"x2" rail around the top of the trailer, hinged at the front of the trailer. I'm putting a rubber seal on the bottom of the lid frame - probably a "D" shape unless convinced otherwise, that will be sandwiched between the lid and rail when closed. McMaster has several options I'm looking at. I'm concerned about how to do a 90 degree corner in the seal without creating a leak point - the goal is a weatherproof interior. For those with hard lids - what seals are you using and are they effective? How did you do the corners? Are there any other seal style suggestions? I know it would have been better to have a flange on the inside of the lid, or to overlap the lid on the outside of the trailer side - neither were possible in my instance given the canoe rack.
Any thoughts on whether one padlockable draw latch on each side (probably mounted midpoint) will be sufficient to keep the lid closed and sealed? I could do 2 on each side of course. The lid should weight about 40 pounds.
The tailgate will be 1"x2" tube, skinned on the inside. I'd like to hinge it on the bottom so that when it opens, it will be level with the trailer floor. My fabricator may be able to fab something but I was wondering about available weld-on or bolt on hinges that will accomplish this. Basically the hinge barrel would need to be dropped down on the rear frame rail, with a flange that can be welded to the face of the tailgate to get the drop needed. Anyone know of a source for such hinges? I'd like a barrel style hinge or the like for removal of the tailgate.
Thanks.
