CV Half Shaft? Axle Install- 2000 Tundra+

Derek24

Explorer
I posted my DIY over on Tundrasolutions and thought maybe this will you all here. This should be the same for 1st gen Sequoias, 3rd Gen 4runners, 1st Gen Taco's, and T100's. Purchased new axle from RockAuto for ~$50, cost me almost $300 for the dealer to replace a blown CV boot before, never doing that again! Great deal and fun install! Here it is:

1. First remove the tire and wheel and you then see this:
IMG_2985_zps50374466.jpg


2. Remove dust cover carefully. May take some work to get off.
IMG_2986_zpsa396e68a.jpg


3. Now you see the cotter pin and axle nut.
IMG_2988_zps4341de6a.jpg


4. Remove cotter pin.
IMG_2990_zpsc090c33a.jpg


5. Remove this retaining nut/washer. Not sure the exact name, but remove it.
IMG_2991_zps8235e1cd.jpg


6. 36mm socket is needed to remove axle nut.
IMG_2992_zps5b1ca6c7.jpg


7. I used an impact gun to remove the axle nut, I had no problem with the wheel turning, the nut came right off.
IMG_2996_zps4ef35a12.jpg


8. Remove the (4) 14mm bolts holding lower ball joint to knuckle on bottom.
IMG_2994_zps10e0c303.jpg


9. Pull up and out and pull axle out of hub and move the hub and everything to the rear.
IMG_2997_zpsf633da89.jpg

 
10. I used a crow bar and placed it between the diff and axle flange and pried out the axle. This took little effort and the axle popped right out.
IMG_3002_zpsc0d6b3f9.jpg


11. Axle out. No need to remove strut as seen.
IMG_3005_zps65611be3.jpg


12. Old blown boot.
IMG_3006_zps2d90a6b2.jpg


13. New and old
IMG_3007_zps120003f7.jpg


14. New axle in. Best way for me was using a plastic mallet and smacking the axle into diff. Make sure it feels lined up in the axle before smacking it in. Also a good tip, use the nut the came with the axel and put it on about half way to protect the threads as you ********** the axel in as well as giving you more surface area for the mallet.
IMG_3008_zps7c0ed68e.jpg


15. Inset axle back through hub and install nut, retainer washer, then cotter pin.
IMG_3009_zps02441a7e.jpg


16. Don't forget the metal dust cover! You're done! Easy right? Hope this helps!!!
IMG_3010_zps122ad7d2.jpg
 

Haggis

Appalachian Ridgerunner
Thats a nice write up there young feller. I have come to the conclusion that all the more a new half shaft costs its just not worth the time and energy to swap out torn CV Boots and I just replace the whole axle as I have to yank it out of there anyways.
 

pray4surf

Explorer
Good pictures and nice write-up.. But I'd like to add a couple of things...

A.) If the swaybar is still attached, unbolt it at the end - otherwise you aren't going to get the 'droop' to get the hub out of the way of the CV shaft.
B.) When installing the 'new' CV, there is a circlip in the splines that slip into the diff. If you position the gap of the circlip at the bottom of the half-shaft, you'll find that inserting the shaft will go much easier.
C.) Make sure you torque the bolts to spec and check 'em again in a few days / ~100 miles

I had to replace both at once recently - it's not a fun job, but you can save some decent coin doing it yourself... besides, it's a common trail-side fix...
 

Derek24

Explorer
Thanks all! Good points there pray4surf! I forgot about the swaybar as i took mine off years ago! Mark, it's much easier and about the same price to change the whole axle then just the boots. I'm not even sure how to replace the boot only? Seems difficult!
 

expletive

New member
Another note, as I just did the job recently, for those that have the Bud Built skid plate; You do not have to remove the plate to remove the cv, I just ran a long slender wedge into the space between the cv and the diff through the access hole on the plate (supposedly the early plates don't have these holes, but mine did). The hole does not give you enough space to lever the cv out, so you have to employ a wedge to get enough force (I used an impact chisel).

Cheers
JP
 

seanpistol

Explorer
I did mine without removing the swaybar, worked fine.

Also, you can rent that 36mm socket from Vatozone or O'Reily fo free!
 

PaintRock

Adventurer
Excellent write-up. It's too bad Toyota doesn't put manually locking hubs on their rigs anymore (at least not in the U.S. anyway). That would definitely save some wear and tear on this known problem area, and maybe bring the mpgs up a small scoshe. My axles have been slinging grease for a while now, but no tears yet.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,915
Messages
2,879,583
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top