Trailer drag wheels, yeah or nay? - Part Deux with pics

MichaelW

Observer
Under trailer modification #2 I looked at departure angle. I may even add some up front for dragging the trailer over things but I'm unsure on that one yet. So here is trailer mod #2.

I got some wheels for dragging my trailer over rocks. The frame is strong enough to just drag it over but I figured if I had wheels the frame would last longer, plus I can push the trailer backwards over rocks.

So I tacked these puppies on to test it out for appearance. If you laugh at my welding I'll laugh along with you. One of these days I have to learn how to do this.

So what say you? Keep them or leave them?



This makes my departure angle almost straight up and down once the trailer is resting on the wheels. This also helps clear the tailgate, lights and hinges.







Here is a couple of shots from under neath. I gyrated on the placement of the wheels on the frame and decided to flush them on the inside so I would gain the maximum amount of departure angle.





It may have been nicer to use some larger pneumatic wheels but I think these will do and 6" rubber wheels would have been choice #2.

Note: the installation was done by eyeball and holding them in place and tacking them down. Before I make these permanent I can easily take them off on straighten them out if it's really necessary.

So what do you think?
 

oldcj5guy

Adventurer
I like the idea, but personally I would be worried about coming over something and having it hang on the front side of the wheels because of the new hangup they create. Maybe you could enclose the front side of them like a ramp to allow them to drag up and over.
 

Gear

Explorer, Overland Certified OC0020
I would like to see an action shot. Michael this is very interesting. I have seen were your JK has been, now I would like to see your trailer in tow. Come on what else do you have to do this weekend. At least you will know if they work or not.
 

OldSven

Explorer
Not a bad idea. One other thing you could do would be to get a hard pastic roller the full width of the frame. The only thing I could see wrong with those rollers is that they could get dirt, grim, and maybe rust in there and won't roll but drag with the trailer. I'm building my trailer right now so this is a great idea, let us know what works:)
 

Skylinerider

Adventurer
Personally, I'd ditch them in favor of some steel plate or angle iron, kinda a rock slider for a trailer. Just my $.02
 

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
No way jose.....

even with the wheels on they will still hangup just due to them being proud from the frame rail 2"

Then you'd tug on it and either rip the thing off, or twist the rear member

and you've already ground off more paint than you'd loose in a year of off roading.

If your really that worried.....

I'd just add some 1/4" PTFE sliders......and when they wear out, buy a new one.

Now if you mounted them inside the rear bumper and only had 3/8" of the wheels protruding...then it would improve over as is....the only thing to hang up on would be the wheels themselves.

Fitted like that works fine on a flat road and a long assed RV.....


Oh and one thing that you need to add while you've got your welder out is some angle iron and edge seal to seal your tailgate.

Once you've taken your trailer offroad on dirt trails you'll understand, as even if you tarped over the top...you have what looks like 1/2" gaps which dust just loves, unpacking gear with a dust covering just sucks
 
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ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
FWIW PTFE would be a poor choice for a rub strip. It'll work great, but it won't last very long & impacts will tend to reshape it (it cold flows under pressure). Similarly most Polyethylene variants would be a bad choice, for the same reason.

Acetal/Delrin/Celcon (pretty much all the same polymer) or Turcite (a very similar polymer) would be better choices for this. Can find it up on mcmaster.com Look for a impact acceptable version.

Another option, though not as easily found in the States, is something called "Jobrock" (sp?). Lola Race Cars uses it for rub strips under their race cars. Stuff wears great in that application.

Another option would be any of the High Strength Low Alloy steels that deal with impact OK (not all do). Core-10, Ten-X, T-1, AR, stuff like that. Pick an alloy and simply heavy tack-weld on a strip of it.
 
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UK4X4

Expedition Leader
Now there's an answer from someone in the know..........

Do you know anything about G10 material too ? as I'm considering it as a trailer panel material instead of aluminum due to its weight and strength....

and also cost.
 

Erich_870

New member
They look like they would be a rock anchor before they lifted the trailer up and over. I like the idea, and there are many situations where they could come in handy, but I think it falls under the "Keeping it simple" rule.

Ntsqd's post about high strength alloys and other special materials is very interesting, but why worry about it that much? How often are you going to drag it over rocks? Seems like a less then a couple dozen times a year IF that. So welding some additional plating on the end and using it as a sacrificial piece seems easier. Like a zinc anode on a boat.

Since you already have them, I say weld them all the way on and hit some rocks then post some pics :wings:

Erich
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
My own choice would be a strip of one of the HSLA's across the rear as most of them are designed for highly abrasive applications.
 

MichaelW

Observer
Wow, thanks for all the comments and some education.

Here is one of the reasons for the wheels.

tr-done-14.jpg


Obviously this is a single situation. But in this picture the frame is hitting on the rock face as I am backing up. This is enough of a no-slip situation where I can not back up this rock because of the friction. This was the inspiration for the wheels.

Now part of the problem with even the solution I have considered is this.

tr-build-19.jpg


The rear tail gate can drop completely open making it easy for loading and unloading. Plus the tail gate is designed to come completely off if I want to.

So with the suggestions I am hearing and carefully considering them I need to decide what is more important, the ability to completely open the tail gate or add something that would impair the ability for the tail gate to completely open.

I am considering the just build a skid plate option but how big should it be because the frame is outside the box I will still have a "hook" with just the frame itself.

If I build a skid plate and I like the simplicity of this idea and wear down a replaceable plate over the frame itself, how far should I push the extension beyond the frame to protect the tail gate. Or more specifically will I take this trailer off of White Knuckle hill in Moab?

I like the rolling pin idea, but I think because of the way the geometry lines up on my application a 4" roller would be best as this would almost negate the hook ability on just about anything short of a 27" tall beam on the trail.

With that said, I'd like to use a steel pipe the full width of the back of the trailer as the roller guide. This would be welded in the middle and bolted on the ends so the roller material could be easily slid on and off to be replaced. The problem with this is the cost and availability of a Delrin type outer sleeve to slide over my roller pin and matching up (not to the nth degree) the OD of the pin and the ID of the roller sleeve. Now of course I could use a cheaper than Delrin or similar material and one more readily available and just consider it as a disposable part of the trailer. Now what that material would be I do not know and would implore the experts to help me out on a decision on this.

I think the other options such as a half round pipe just welded on the back certainly offer the simple solution but I think the lack of protect for the tailgate is going to rule that out for now.

Now having said all that, I am going to weld on the rollers and give them a work out but in the meantime I'm leaning a lot towards my pipe and sleeve option.

When I do my field tests I share any pics and video I shoot along with my unbiased opinion of this avenue.

Thanks guys! Any more input you have would be appreciated.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I do not think a bearing is really needed inside the roller(s). Sure, it would be neat to have, but not really necessary. If you need them as a way to make up an ID-OD difference then OK, but I wouldn't make them a design requirement.

A simple wear plate tacked to the frame, and an angled lead-in on the front side would be my first choice. Perhaps a similar lead on the back side as well.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
I am going to use a sacrificial strip on the rear of mine and call it good. Then again, i am not trying to drop off of 3' ledges either.

You are on the right track.
 

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