22RE - 22R differences?

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I always ask for a tight tolerance balance job on any engine. Regardless of the cam the engine will run smoother. On a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder that's more important than usual.
If you have extra money in the budget (hah!), spend it on the cylinder head. That is where the power & mileage are locked up.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
ntsqd said:
I always ask for a tight tolerance balance job on any engine. Regardless of the cam the engine will run smoother. On a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder that's more important than usual.
If you have extra money in the budget (hah!), spend it on the cylinder head. That is where the power & mileage are locked up.
Another thing I think helps, particularly an inline, is a mains line bore. When I rebuilt my 22R last winter, the line bore would have only added about $75 to the quote. You can have a full bottom end done on a 22R for about $1000~$1500, depending on how much you want. I got a quote for $1500 to have the block cleaned (tanked, deck facing, cylinder hone and main bore), the crank and rods machined, new pistons (Keith Black), rings (Wiseco), bearings, painted, balance and blueprint. I ended up finding a brand new factory Toyota short block and went that way, though.

The full head work on a 22R will be about $400, give or take. I spent $600 total with a new casting, but if you start with a used head it would be about $200~$250 less. Mine has mild porting (really more of an aggressive gasket match and edges and curves smoothing), oversized valves and the bowls are cleaned up, about 8cc increase in combustion chamber size. I'm running an Engnbldr 261 cam like Grim. I ended up using stock springs and rockers.
 

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
ntsqd said:
I always ask for a tight tolerance balance job on any engine. Regardless of the cam the engine will run smoother. On a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder that's more important than usual.
If you have extra money in the budget (hah!), spend it on the cylinder head. That is where the power & mileage are locked up.
Yep I totaly agree.

The shop I used refused to do the assembly without the ballance. His deal is if he does the assembly he will take car of any internal failures for the life of the motor.

Glad it did it despite the extra expense. Smooth as glass at 4,000 RPM. My motor really comes on line above 3K. I just don't like running it that hard but merging with traffic when pulling the trailer sometimes it has to be done to keep from getting run over around here.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Grim Reaper said:
I just don't like running it that hard but merging with traffic when pulling the trailer sometimes it has to be done to keep from getting run over around here.
LOL! That's modus operandi here. I routinely hit 4500~5000 RPM and it gets held at 3500 RPM often for tens of minutes while climbing over passes. The 22R can handle it, just bring it up to RPM slowly and hold it with a light throttle. It's the hard downshifts that I think kill them. The shift from 2500 to 4500 with your foot buried. If you downshift before hitting the steep grade and just mellow out and enjoy the 50 MPH, 3rd gear climb, things become a lot less stressful.
 

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
DaveInDenver said:
LOL! That's modus operandi here. I routinely hit 4500~5000 RPM and it gets held at 3500 RPM often for tens of minutes while climbing over passes. The 22R can handle it, just bring it up to RPM slowly and hold it with a light throttle. It's the hard downshifts that I think kill them. The shift from 2500 to 4500 with your foot buried. If you downshift before hitting the steep grade and just mellow out and enjoy the 50 MPH, 3rd gear climb, things become a lot less stressful.
hehehe Now I am the heel toe king! LOL

My Supra had the W58, the 2wd version of the W56 our trucks have. Mine shifts so smooth once warm now that it is rebuilt.

You know I wonder if the shorter Supra shifter would fit?

I do refrain from the all out dump on a down shift but I speed shift that thing accelerating or trying to retain speed on a hill.
 

Ga Yota 4x4

New member
Main reason I like this forum is because everyone's always willing to provide good advice. Unlike some others where you get slammed for asking a simple question.

Grim, I'm about 25 miles southeast of Macon. (out in the sticks) Still drive to work in the city, but in got too crowded for me. We're not subject to any smog test yet, but with Al winning the Nobel for Global warming we could all be subject again soon. Where are you doing your expeditions? Maybe I could tag along one weekend.

Looking forward to the Yota rebuild. Got a lot of work ahead of me. I picked the 85 4x4 up for $1100. Plan on doing a build up thread to show my progress. Noticed most of the guys on here have the new Tacoma’s, but I'm partial to the older ones. (I think they are tougher) :peepwall:

I've got complete faith in my engine builder. (He does good work). We've got a local dirt track here and he builds a lot of engines for the racers. Just got my 4.2 6 cyl back from him for my jeep and it is sweet. Putting a 4.0 head and header on for some additional HP gains.
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
DaveInDenver said:
LOL! That's modus operandi here. I routinely hit 4500~5000 RPM and it gets held at 3500 RPM often for tens of minutes while climbing over passes. The 22R can handle it, just bring it up to RPM slowly and hold it with a light throttle. It's the hard downshifts that I think kill them. The shift from 2500 to 4500 with your foot buried. If you downshift before hitting the steep grade and just mellow out and enjoy the 50 MPH, 3rd gear climb, things become a lot less stressful.
perfectly said.
 

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