M416 floor replacement

F

Flashole

Adventurer
I finally got my m416 tub back from the sand blaster and the floor now looks like swiss cheese. it's not horrible, but there are enough pin holes that I could probably spend a week welding them all up. Kind of disappointing, since I was actually hoping to save it:( That ship sailed, so I think it would be less work to just cut the floor out and replace it will new sheet metal. I also need to patch a few holes in the tub walls. My question is, what gauge steel should I use for the floor and what gauge steel is the tub walls made of? Also, anybody have any good advice for replacing the floor?

One of these days I'm going to start a build thread, and post some pics up. I'm probably far enough along now that it won't be to boring.
 
F

Flashole

Adventurer
Whats the trick to getting members to respond here?:coffee: Do I have to post pics or something? Post count not high enough yet? Thread too long for the ADD types?

I'll shorten it.

Anybody know what gauge steel the M416 tub is made of?

Anybody have an opinion on what gauge sheet metal would be best to replace the floor with?
 
R

roversam

Observer
Mine is a 1969 and its 16 gauge. as far as the floor there is co out there making repop floors but thew were big $$$$$$ if it was me i would weld some braces acrost the top to keep it square and then cut the floor out and have a new one bent up at your local steel shop. have them bend up some 4 x 4 angle to so that you can make the ribs that are under the floor. hope that helps at all
 
F

Flashole

Adventurer
roversam said:
Mine is a 1969 and its 16 gauge. as far as the floor there is co out there making repop floors but thew were big $$$$$$ if it was me i would weld some braces acrost the top to keep it square and then cut the floor out and have a new one bent up at your local steel shop. have them bend up some 4 x 4 angle to so that you can make the ribs that are under the floor. hope that helps at all
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know i can order a replacement panel, but I'm not spending the money for that. Will metal shops be able to put ribs in a sheet of metal? I was just planning on welding a flat sheet of metal in there. My thoughts were that I'd cut the old floor out and leave about an inch or so all the way around the edges to hold the new floor and give me something to weld to. I just don't know what gauge to use. You say the tub is 16 gauge, that's definitely good to know, but if I go with a flat floor with no ribs, I'm wondering if a little thicker gauge metal wouldn't be needed for strength.

ETA....Thanks for the reply!!
 
Mark Harley

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
Look at the floor from a pick up truck.
Replacement panel or from a salvage yard.
Cut to size and weld it in.
 
F

Flashole

Adventurer
Mark Harley said:
Look at the floor from a pick up truck.
Replacement panel or from a salvage yard.
Cut to size and weld it in.
Click to expand...

I've thought about that, but wouldn't the ribs go the entire length of the bed? I plan on adding a tailgate, so how would I address the un-evenness of the floor where it would meet the tailgate? I've looked through all the build threads I can find and haven't found any where someone used an old truck bed. If anybody has a link to a thread, Please post it. I'd love to see how they did it.
 
K

klb67

Observer
Flashole,

I don't have a M416, but I'm building a 4.5' x 6' utility trailer. I went with 16 gauge sides, and a 1/8 sheet for the floor - I think that's a good thickness. It will rest on an inch of the 2x2 outer frame and 3 2x2 cross members.
 
H

hesterj

Adventurer
I like your idea about leaving the old floor as a lip to tie-in the new metal. Cut the old floor out,leaving enough to clear the frame rails and just enough to give a place to either weld or bolt new floor down. You could use a cut down full sheet of diamond plate. (or 3/16" or thicker without the ribs if your worried about bending)

Just be sure to seal seam the gap in the tub.
 
Last edited:
Flyfishjeep

Flyfishjeep

Adventurer
I replaced the floor in my M416 by doing exactly that, I left about 1/4 inch all the way around and dropped the new steel right on top of that lip. A few pipe clamps and squared it up as best I could and the floor went in really well. I used 14 guage steel as I was also concerned about the strength/rigidity the ribs gave. I have not seen or had any issues with the 14 guage. I was even able to salvage one fo the floor drains by cutting ity out and welding it on the bottom of the floor. I welded a small piece of screen on the floor first and then the drain.
 
F

Flashole

Adventurer
Flyfishjeep said:
I replaced the floor in my M416 by doing exactly that, I left about 1/4 inch all the way around and dropped the new steel right on top of that lip. A few pipe clamps and squared it up as best I could and the floor went in really well. I used 14 guage steel as I was also concerned about the strength/rigidity the ribs gave. I have not seen or had any issues with the 14 guage. I was even able to salvage one fo the floor drains by cutting ity out and welding it on the bottom of the floor. I welded a small piece of screen on the floor first and then the drain.
Click to expand...

I think for now, that's my exact plan. Except, I don't care about keeping the drain plug since I'm cutting a tailgate in it.

For those of you who used 3/16th for the floor, did you have any trouble welding it to the thinner sheet metal the tub is made from? I'm not an accomplished welder, and I'm afraid I'd burn up the old trying to get penetration into the thicker floor material. Or, am i just over-thinking that?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
185,911
Messages
2,879,517
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior

Members online

Total: 1,045 (members: 43, guests: 1,002)
Top