Fused Distribution blocks...comparing fuse types.

[BajaTaco]

If you go with blades, you can also use Smart Fuses, which are pretty cool. However, I really don't think it's that big of a deal if you use the glass fuses. Just pick the one you like best and go for it.

[91xlt]

i have a unit similar to the one shown in your diagram, i went with the blade type uses the same as the truck added a second from Painless under the hood and the unit shown here is mounted in the trailer, bought it from a boat supply store.

[+ d]

whilst sitting in a vegetative state staring blankly at the pastries on the table during my office's monday morning meeting i had a minor epiphany...i can use the 12 circuit blade style fuse block from Blue Sea!



I can just use the wiring from one side of the block, netting me the 6 needed circuits...this will keep my wiring pretty and allow me to use blade style fuses. i can have my cake and eat it too..

[david despain]

maybe im just a complete moron but what is with the negitive buss? why would you need the power to come back to the fuse block after it "exits" the device it has powered? why not just go to ground at the device? please dont me for this ?


although maybe i answered my own question.... since this is a marine product and lots of marine stuff is fiberglass maybe u would have to come back to a common place to get a gnd and this is as good of a common place as any.

[+ d]

i think that's probably a good hypothesis as to why the negative bus is there.

i personally loathe having to always find a ground...although in theory the truck is just one big negative bus right!? but i hate looking for some convenient existing screw or having to drill new holes and with all the plastics sometimes it ain't easy to find a bare piece of metal. i am setting up to run paired/multi-paired wires so the ground will just always happen at the fuse block...

[asteffes]

I agree that's it nice to find everything in one place. You can buy zip-cord so that when you run a positive wire, you also run a negative for ground. Then you never have to hunt around later on for that random ground screw. Also, you ensure everything is equally well-grounded to the same point on the chassis. Run a single fat 10 or 8 gauge wire from your wiring block to a big chassis bolt and you're set.