Tongue box set up - Portable and permanent power sources?

[DrtTrac]

Ok, so I’m getting ready to set up the tongue box on my trailer for power and have been researching the Goal Zero products for solar as well as a more permanent solar and power platform. I’ve decided to do both, so here goes…

On the portable, Goal Zero-side I went with the Explorer 350 power pack and 400watt inverter mated to a Boulder 30 watt panel. This will handle the 12V cooler (could be hooked to the battery side), Light a Life LED’s for camp/RTT lights, fan, as well as my charging needs for sensitive equipment. Besides being portable to use in the house in an emergency…
On the permanent side, another Goal Zero Boulder 30 solar panel with their 90 watt charge controller will keep my Optima Blue top charged (the 2 panels can be hooked together for a quicker charge on either the 350 power pack or the Optima). I am adding a couple 12V cigarette outlets on the outside of the box for additional ports and running a water pump for an Eccotemp Water Heater for outdoor shower.

I do not have a need for shore power as all my camping is done off-grid. Besides some in-line fuses for the power ports, is there anything I could be missing? I will add an inverter to the battery side for more powerful needs like a heater, electric blanket (for the wuss wife), but not at this time until I truly see all of my need after a few trial camping trips. I’m newer in the wiring department and this will be my first set up in a tongue box, but I have had my fair share of stereo wiring in the past. Switches? Distribution block? Fuse panel? I don’t see the need, but maybe for future set ups like air bag suspension… I’ve seen others with more elaborate setups and I guess this is why I’m asking for help. This set up seems very basic and I feel I’m missing some key elements.

Thanks in advance.

 

[JKJenn]

Ok, so I'm getting ready to set up the tongue box on my trailer for power and have been researching the Goal Zero products for solar as well as a more permanent solar and power platform. I've decided to do both, so here goes…

On the portable, Goal Zero-side I went with the Explorer 350 power pack and 400watt inverter mated to a Boulder 30 watt panel. This will handle the 12V cooler (could be hooked to the battery side), Light a Life LED's for camp/RTT lights, fan, as well as my charging needs for sensitive equipment. Besides being portable to use in the house in an emergency…
On the permanent side, another Goal Zero Boulder 30 solar panel with their 90 watt charge controller will keep my Optima Blue top charged (the 2 panels can be hooked together for a quicker charge on either the 350 power pack or the Optima). I am adding a couple 12V cigarette outlets on the outside of the box for additional ports and running a water pump for an Eccotemp Water Heater for outdoor shower.

I do not have a need for shore power as all my camping is done off-grid. Besides some in-line fuses for the power ports, is there anything I could be missing? I will add an inverter to the battery side for more powerful needs like a heater, electric blanket (for the wuss wife), but not at this time until I truly see all of my need after a few trial camping trips. I'm newer in the wiring department and this will be my first set up in a tongue box, but I have had my fair share of stereo wiring in the past. Switches? Distribution block? Fuse panel? I don't see the need, but maybe for future set ups like air bag suspension… I've seen others with more elaborate setups and I guess this is why I'm asking for help. This set up seems very basic and I feel I'm missing some key elements.

Thanks in advance.

This is right in line with what I would like to accomplish this year. Please post detailed photos and explanations of how you did this when you are done. What about a vent for the battery?

If I go this route this year, can I add shore power next year?

 

[JKJenn]

I did find a couple of threads:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ialed-in-my-electric-components-on-my-trailer

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/70040-Trailer-tongue-box-battery-setups

 

[DrtTrac]

Thanks for the replies. JKJenn, I have read through the links you posted previously in my searches for information and find these still come up a little short on DETAILS. Being a NOOB to the wiring, it's been a challenge to find detailed information!

To answer your 2 questions, based on my limited knowledge, I don't need a vent as my battery is AGM and not lead-acid based. If you get a lead-acid battery for your application it's wise to vent the box. As far as shore power, this is where I question people using this terminology. Shore power as it pertains to boats is a completely different animal involving a bunch of different equipment and cost. What I assume people here are referring to is a simple male plug to run an extension cord to the power at a campsite. You can add this at anytime in the future. What I do not know is what is required additionally besides the plug? What converts the AC to DC? Still researching and will follow up soon...

I've found a little information about adding a fuse panel and why. My original question of 'do I need this' is pretty simple...how many additional items do you plan on adding in the future? My answer was a few...water pump, possible air bag suspension, air compressor, additional 'permanent' light options etc. By adding a fuse panel, this will allow me to add these things easily at a later date without running an inline fuse for each additional item. Do you need a switch panel? Depends again on needs...do you want to be able to shut off each individual item? Lights for example...do you want the additional control of flipping on one switch to illuminate the whole trailer (wherever you have mounted lights)? Additionally this switch would cut power to every light ensuring you did not accidently leave one on somewhere draining you battery... A master switch added would then allow you to cut power to EVERYTHING. How is this wired in? No clue. Hence why I asking here.

I have a feeling this post will end up being drawn out as I find little bits of information here and there. Hope some of this helps.

 

[JKJenn]

I've found a little information about adding a fuse panel and why. My original question of 'do I need this' is pretty simple...how many additional items do you plan on adding in the future? My answer was a few...water pump, possible air bag suspension, air compressor, additional 'permanent' light options etc. By adding a fuse panel, this will allow me to add these things easily at a later date without running an inline fuse for each additional item. Do you need a switch panel? Depends again on needs...do you want to be able to shut off each individual item? Lights for example...do you want the additional control of flipping on one switch to illuminate the whole trailer (wherever you have mounted lights)? Additionally this switch would cut power to every light ensuring you did not accidently leave one on somewhere draining you battery... A master switch added would then allow you to cut power to EVERYTHING. How is this wired in? No clue. Hence why I asking here. .

Thanks for you response DrtTrac!

I think I actually know the answer to one of your questions. I believe the battery charger converts the AC to DC. See the description here: http://www.marinco.com/product/6-amp-dual-battery-chargepro-charger My understanding for the master battery switch is that it is wired directly to the battery via a cable like this.

I am not planning to connect this to my JK battery this year. That will be a future project. I don't plan more than 3-4 days of dry camping at a time for now.

Here is what I am planning:

Battery Box: HF Tongue Box
Fuse Panel: 6 postion Marine Fuse Panel
Battery On/Off Switch
Shore power inlet
12V DC Socket
Battery Tray/Tie Down
Marine Battery Charger
3 prong plug to shore power plug pigtail
10 gauge automotive wiring

I will probably start off with a Walmart Everstart Marine battery and using my existing 300 watt inverter, although, I am pursuing possibly a more robust inverter on CL. My needs, right now, are simple: shower pump, cell phone, laptop, camera batteries, and rechargable AA batteries. I will likely add some lighting either later this summer or next year.

I also have an outdoor outlet at home I will probably use from my invertor to the outside of the box.

I would also be curious to see how people have run wire to their RTT's for lighting and how that works when it is closed.

 

[tibfibber]

Think about using a manual transfer switch...

some links.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25611870.cfm

also might want look at ground/neutral bonding, and some of the code/requirements for RV/Marine vs fixed install.
http://www.samlexamerica.com/suppor...oGroundSwitchinginRVandMarineApplications.pdf

I just picked up a cam switch to cut over shore power (both hot/neutral legs) to Inverter with a bypass for the 2 way fridge. Basically what is outlined in the rv.net link with only one bypass circuit.

note: this diagram isn't mine, re-posted from the rv.net thread.

 

[DrtTrac]

JKJenn,
That's the thing...I don't plan on having a battery charger as all of my charging will happen via the solar panels. I live in AZ and no reason no to use the 330 days of sun here! So how does a shore power convert in this case?

I am curious about the lighting wiring too...I assume you would use some sort of quick disconnect...

 

[natvet]

I am not sure this helps...so pay no attention if I miss understand your questions......The solar panels charge your batt. as you said in the OP. I would run from the battery to a fuse block(Blue Sea) from fuse block to inverter . the rest of your power needs comes from the fuse block through switches to each item(lights etc.) Since you are"off the grid" you would have no need for 120v supply. You will use your batteries and solar panels to supply your needs. I hope I have helped... if not, someone else will

 

[DrtTrac]

I am not sure this helps...so pay no attention if I miss understand your questions......The solar panels charge your batt. as you said in the OP. I would run from the battery to a fuse block(Blue Sea) from fuse block to inverter . the rest of your power needs comes from the fuse block through switches to each item(lights etc.) Since you are"off the grid" you would have no need for 120v supply. You will use your batteries and solar panels to supply your needs. I hope I have helped... if not, someone else will

Nathan, You're right. My OP stated I had no need for shore power, but we were just discussing if it were added at a later date what would be needed.

But back on the battery question....My solar charger connects to the battery via alligator clips. If I add an inverter, I still need a fuse panel? Wouldn't the inverter be hooked directly to the battery? What does the fuse panel give me with the inverter? I understand if I wanted to add switches and additional things this gives me the ability to expand.

 

[JKJenn]

Nathan, You're right. My OP stated I had no need for shore power, but we were just discussing if it were added at a later date what would be needed.

But back on the battery question....My solar charger connects to the battery via alligator clips. If I add an inverter, I still need a fuse panel? Wouldn't the inverter be hooked directly to the battery? What does the fuse panel give me with the inverter? I understand if I wanted to add switches and additional things this gives me the ability to expand.

Not sure what pump you are running, you might want an individual fuse for it, but you could probably get away with no fuse panel, given your use. If you are not adding switches, outlets, or additional lighting and only plugging into the inverter, you should be good to go. I have a 12v batttery (small, like for hobby) I used on vacation last year with an inverter for charging batteries and I was good to go.

 

[Mel.Specs]

Not trailer specific but try browsing through this area. There are more threads on dual batteries, charging, wiring and solar that can be adapted to a trailer.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/48-Power-Systems-12v-Solar-Gen

 

[natvet]

fuse block

"........But back on the battery question....My solar charger connects to the battery via alligator clips. If I add an inverter, I still need a fuse panel? Wouldn't the inverter be hooked directly to the battery? What does the fuse panel give me with the inverter? I understand if I wanted to add switches and additional things this gives me the ability to expand......"


I believe you need a fuse panel. The fuse panel will protect the appliances attached to it including the inverter(prevent us from letting the smoke out of the wires...so to speak:Wow1. My inverter is connected to my fuse panel . So to clarify battery to fuse block to inverter to any 110V appliance.... Battery to fuse block to switch to 12V appliance. I believe the fuse block is a necessary safety measure and allows a centralized place connect things to.....Mine is from blue sea i can look it up for you if you are curious.
The inverters will suck up some serious amps and should be wired accordingly. I used wire normally used for welding leads. HTH