To Rover or not to Rover... LR3 purchase consideration...

MedicalCowboy

Adventurer
Can we create a sticky of one of these threads so they are constantly duplicated?

Yes please! It seems like everyday is starting a new thread asking if they should buy a vehicle. The answer is yes! If you don't like it sell it and buy another. If you can't do that then simply do research... The search function on here actually works. I promise :wings:
I use it all the time lol
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Get the newest, lowest mileage LR3 you can afford. Look for a truck with documented factory service. Try to find one with the HD package.
 

JimBiram

Adventurer
I just turned 150k on my 2005 LR3, that I bought in January 2005. Land Rovers are a bit like a drug. It takes only a few times in the vehicle and then you are hooked...then it costs money to keep high! All of the previous posts have offered good advice, but if you take your time, and look around you will find the one that will hook you and then that will be that. I love my LR3...have taken it places that people think I'm nuts, yet it is still my daily driver. Just be willing to spend what you have to spend. Offroad vehicles, especially ones that give you the comfort the LR3 provides, have a higher maintenance cost, especially when used off road. That technology and comfort has a price. Yet I would buy another one in an instant if mine died.
 
As a an employee of BMWNA, buy
something other than a Rover.product....the 2 years we had them were their best ones. Sorry if I offended, but I have no reason to take the piss out of you.
 

Nikson

Explorer
Yes please! It seems like everyday is starting a new thread asking if they should buy a vehicle. The answer is yes! If you don't like it sell it and buy another. If you can't do that then simply do research... The search function on here actually works. I promise :wings:
I use it all the time lol

Not to be a ************, like others said - but I've decided that I'm buying an LR3,
its the matter of choosing which one of them to buy, and TO BUY OR NOT TO BUY...

I just want to know what to look for as far as ups/downs during the selection.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Lots of good advice in this thread, all of it spot on. I added a bit more info on the V6 verses V8 discussion here: http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2008/09/11/buying-a-used-lr3-v6-or-v8-which-options-cautions/

One thing to keep in mind is that you live in snow county. Fitting bigger tires (like 285/60/18, under 32" diameter like you said) is going to cause challenges with snow chains, so you might need to figure on buying 1" spacers to get more room between the sidewall and the upper arm knuckle in the front suspension. Also, get the IDT tool or Faultmate.
 

trevor

New member
As a an employee of BMWNA, buy
something other than a Rover.product....the 2 years we had them were their best ones. Sorry if I offended, but I have no reason to take the piss out of you.

And as a former LR employee, I completely disagree. LR has done nothing but improve in quality. Here's a simple metric to judge by. During our BMW years we kept a staff of 22-26 mechanics. Since 2008* that number has slowly dropped down to 13. We just didnt have as much warranty work to keep them busy. Ford got the ball rolling and Tata has been giving the brands the resources they needed.

*Corrected 2006 to 2008. 2006-2008 were still learning years with the new vehicles. Also the replacement of the AJV8 into the Range Rover from the BMW motor had electrical issues to work out.
 
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d67u57

Adventurer
one of the most important things pointed in this thread is of course that by now most issues had been fixed at the dealer.

now,is it me or there is more 06's for sale vs 05's?
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
As a Land Rover technician you couldn't *give* me a 2003-2005 BMW Range Rover.

I would spend my own money on a 2007-2009 though.

Not that this has anything to do with an LR3.
 

Nikson

Explorer
Thanks again for all of the advice.

Once its done & over with, I'll post a picture & probable do a build thread here once things start rolling in on it.
 

Nikson

Explorer
Lots of good advice in this thread, all of it spot on. I added a bit more info on the V6 verses V8 discussion here: http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2008/09/11/buying-a-used-lr3-v6-or-v8-which-options-cautions/

One thing to keep in mind is that you live in snow county. Fitting bigger tires (like 285/60/18, under 32" diameter like you said) is going to cause challenges with snow chains, so you might need to figure on buying 1" spacers to get more room between the sidewall and the upper arm knuckle in the front suspension. Also, get the IDT tool or Faultmate.

Specific reasons to own such tools? - read/reset faultcodes, reset check engine light?, or it goes deeper as in allows to update the ECU firmwares as well?

As far as tire size, what do you say is max that can be used without ANY rubbing?

I'm most likely will be using either BFG A/T or GY Duratrac tires, thus my need for chains will be minimal, and not required to go over the pass in the snow conditions. Tires will be plenty enough for backcountry exploration as well.

Thanks,
 

Mack73

Adventurer
As far as tire size, what do you say is max that can be used without ANY rubbing?

I'm most likely will be using either BFG A/T or GY Duratrac tires, thus my need for chains will be minimal, and not required to go over the pass in the snow conditions. Tires will be plenty enough for backcountry exploration as well.

Thanks,

285/60/18 you will get no rubbing at stock height

265/65/18 (31.6") - BFG A/T's available in this size and this is what I run. You get a little bit of rubbing on the driver's side front wheel at the front of the wheel opening. The tire touches the fender liner while at maximum turn at stock height. You can simply trim back the fender liner to remove this. This is also the maximum size you can run and still be drivable if the air suspension fails and you go down to the bump stops.

275/65/18 (32") - The Duratrac and other MT tires. You will get rubbing at stock height. A lift is required. You will not be able to drive if the air suspensions goes to the bump stops.


No true MT tires in less than 32" :(
 

PhyrraM

Adventurer
Specific reasons to own such tools? - read/reset faultcodes, reset check engine light?, or it goes deeper as in allows to update the ECU firmwares as well?

Read codes for proper troubleshooting of systems. The air suspension in particular can put you on the bumpstops without warning if it sees something it doesn't like. Clearing codes can many times reset a system (suspension usually) good enough to get back to civilization. Reading live values from sensors can be extremely helpful too.

Currently, the Faultmate can enable options your car didn't come with (assuming you also install the proper hardware if required) and also update the firmware for most of the computers in the car. I believe the IIDTool has also promised this will be added later.

My Faultmate was about $1000 total (tool+software licenses). So far I have read and cleared codes (no failures, just 'playin'), updated the bluetooth module to work better with newer phones, cleared the memory on the transmission ECU so it can learn my driving style, and updated the touchscreen software to allow 'Nav-on-move entry'. Next will be a software lift and to update the body module and instrument cluster to the newest software.

The IIDTool is less money and does the suspension and codes - which is all you really need to a breakdown. It doesn't need a laptop either.
 

Mack73

Adventurer
The IIDTool is less money and does the suspension and codes - which is all you really need to a breakdown. It doesn't need a laptop either.

The real benefit is I just keep it in the glove box.
1. Which is huge if you're out on the trail with no laptop or the battery has run dead. Basically you don't rely on anything. Just plug it in an do your job.
2. Since it is so easy to do a software lift, I just plug it in when I'm at the trail head - jack up the suspension. When I'm done, plug it back in and lower back to stock level. Which is super convenient.


But I would really love to get a faultmate to do the deep down diagnostics/firmware updates.
 

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