To Rover or not to Rover... LR3 purchase consideration...

[Nikson]

285/60/18 you will get no rubbing at stock height

265/65/18 (31.6") - BFG A/T's available in this size and this is what I run. You get a little bit of rubbing on the driver's side front wheel at the front of the wheel opening. The tire touches the fender liner while at maximum turn at stock height. You can simply trim back the fender liner to remove this. This is also the maximum size you can run and still be drivable if the air suspension fails and you go down to the bump stops.

275/65/18 (32") - The Duratrac and other MT tires. You will get rubbing at stock height. A lift is required. You will not be able to drive if the air suspensions goes to the bump stops.


No true MT tires in less than 32"

My understanding that stock size is right about 30 inch tire, so going up to 31 would be perfect more or less and not put too much strain on drivetrain or gearing. Going up to 32 would require some modding & will most likely effect MPGs, and other components.

Read codes for proper troubleshooting of systems. The air suspension in particular can put you on the bumpstops without warning if it sees something it doesn't like. Clearing codes can many times reset a system (suspension usually) good enough to get back to civilization. Reading live values from sensors can be extremely helpful too.

Currently, the Faultmate can enable options your car didn't come with (assuming you also install the proper hardware if required) and also update the firmware for most of the computers in the car. I believe the IIDTool has also promised this will be added later.

My Faultmate was about $1000 total (tool+software licenses). So far I have read and cleared codes (no failures, just 'playin'), updated the bluetooth module to work better with newer phones, cleared the memory on the transmission ECU so it can learn my driving style, and updated the touchscreen software to allow 'Nav-on-move entry'. Next will be a software lift and to update the body module and instrument cluster to the newest software.

The IIDTool is less money and does the suspension and codes - which is all you really need to a breakdown. It doesn't need a laptop either.

correct me if I'm wrong, but Faultmate will do everything that IIDTool does + more?!

The real benefit is I just keep it in the glove box.
1. Which is huge if you're out on the trail with no laptop or the battery has run dead. Basically you don't rely on anything. Just plug it in an do your job.
2. Since it is so easy to do a software lift, I just plug it in when I'm at the trail head - jack up the suspension. When I'm done, plug it back in and lower back to stock level. Which is super convenient.

But I would really love to get a faultmate to do the deep down diagnostics/firmware updates.

Are you not able to jack up the suspension by just pressing buttons? or that allows to raise it higher than factory allows?

 

[Eniam17]

The tools being referred to allow you to raise the air suspension to the factory off-road height or higher and leave it there as opposed to the stock settings that automatically lower it down at speed. You can drive around permanently lifted if you choose (alignment highly recommended). The issue becomes if you have a suspension fault with oversized tires and the vehicle lowers down so much that you can't move much if at all depending on tire size.

 

[Mack73]

And to keep going on the software lift -

When in offroad height, the computer will automatically lower back to normal when you exceed 30mph. But the other advantage is - I first lift it ~2" with the tool. Then I still have offroad height above that, another +2"

 

[Nikson]

And to keep going on the software lift -

When in offroad height, the computer will automatically lower back to normal when you exceed 30mph. But the other advantage is - I first lift it ~2" with the tool. Then I still have offroad height above that, another +2"

My research had shown the cost to be about $1000 for those, IIDTool is cheaper thou, if money was not an object, is it really worth it to still go to Faultmate? As in where someone bought IIDTool, but regretted not buying the Faultmate from the start?

 

[achampagne]

My buddy is now selling the GAP tool:

http://jasperoffroad.com/index.php/...ver-gap-diagnostic-lr3-lr4-l322-rr-sport.html

He is also a memeber here, screen name exploringnh.

 

[nwoods]

Specific reasons to own such tools? - read/reset faultcodes, reset check engine light?, or it goes deeper as in allows to update the ECU firmwares as well?

Yes, and others have responded well with what all they do. I would consider such a tool to be indispensable if you intend to wheel your rig.

As far as tire size, what do you say is max that can be used without ANY rubbing?

no bigger than 31" TRUE outside diameter to avoid all rubbing, but I don't think it's the right target to aim for. As stated here, the fairly common size of 285/60/18 (at +/- 31.6") WILL rub just a bit in the rear under full compression at the 9:00 o'clock (driver side) and 3:00 o'clock (passenger side), and it MIGHT rub a bit on the frame in in the front, at full turn. But the amount of rubbing is minor and non-destructive to tire or truck....assuming you've moved this sensor wire (takes two minutes to do). The performance benefit is significant, and far offsets any negligle effects on MPG. I never noticed much change in speedo readings or power either. The LR3/4 has PLENTY of power to spare.

I'm most likely will be using either BFG A/T or GY Duratrac tires, thus my need for chains will be minimal, and not required to go over the pass in the snow conditions. Tires will be plenty enough for backcountry exploration as well.

I'm not a big fan of either of those tires on the LR3. They REQUIRE a lift to run them, as they are both 32" or so. The Duratracks are a bit loud, and the AT's are very stiff and in rocks, I've been disappointed in their gription (is that a word?). I like the Hankook's, Coopers, Nitto's, etc... I also like the MTR's, and I Love BFG KM2's, but maybe not on this rig, and I don't think they offer the right size yet? Slightly out of date, but there is a LOT of good content in the responses to this article I wrote long, long ago: http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2007031446-2/

 

[Nikson]

Yes, and others have responded well with what all they do. I would consider such a tool to be indispensable if you intend to wheel your rig.

Thanks a bunch for very useful information.

I will consider everything all together...

I get my tires from local America's Tire store, they offer a "few day satisfaction" policy, where if for whatever reason one didnt like the tire, they'll swap to whatever else you prefer.

So far my choice has been BFG KM2, but thats for a Jeep, different use/story.

I would prefer a tire reliable enough to run rocky backroads & snowy passes, more or less a single set for all 4 seasons.

Now, just got to go and get that LR3, hopefully all goes as planned, and I'll buy as planned this Wednesday.

 

[d67u57]

remind us which you were going for and what dough the seller initially asked?

negotiations are not out the door either right?

 

[Nikson]

remind us which you were going for and what dough the seller initially asked?

negotiations are not out the door either right?

its a 2006 HSE with almost 60k miles, great shape inside out...
seller asking $22k, will let it go for $21k.
Really clean rig

 

[achampagne]

Sounds like mine!, I look forward to seeing your purchase.

 

[Nikson]

Sounds like mine!, I look forward to seeing your purchase.

Plan on picking it up this Wednesday...

 

[Mack73]

I get my tires from local America's Tire store, they offer a "few day satisfaction" policy, where if for whatever reason one didnt like the tire, they'll swap to whatever else you prefer.

So far my choice has been BFG KM2, but thats for a Jeep, different use/story.

I would prefer a tire reliable enough to run rocky backroads & snowy passes, more or less a single set for all 4 seasons.

Now, just got to go and get that LR3, hopefully all goes as planned, and I'll buy as planned this Wednesday.

For your use, the BFG AT's or duratracs will do well.

I'm run the BFG ATs and my dad runs duratracs on his toyota. They are excellent on the road and pretty dang good offroad as well. The BFG's are certified snow traction devices.

Also given the offroad conditions in the PNW, they will work very well. Yes they might not be that great on slick rock face, but none of that up in this area of the country.

 

[achampagne]

Given the fact he is getting a HSE, its likely he will have 19" rims, so both of these choices are now not available. I had the goodyear duratracs on mine and they were awesome, but no longer available. I am now using the Perelli Scorpions AT's, by no means aggresive or barely AT's. There is little choice in the 19" wheel

 

[Mack73]

Given the fact he is getting a HSE, its likely he will have 19" rims, so both of these choices are now not available. I had the goodyear duratracs on mine and they were awesome, but no longer available. I am now using the Perelli Scorpions AT's, by no means aggresive or barely AT's. There is little choice in the 19" wheel

True, I still have 19's sitting in the shed. 1st change is to get some 18" wheels stat

 

[d67u57]

allright. is 21k a steal for the year/condition?

will the seller sway if you were to have less than 21k at hand,cold hard cash?

say 18k? :evil: