seanpistol
Explorer
here's another photo of 255s
ExpoScout's 03 Tundra
- Thread starter ExpoScout
- Start date
here's another photo of 255s
ExpoScout
Explorer
So I was going to pay someone to do a full detail job but I bit the bullet and did it myself this weekend. Figured I'd take pictures because it might not be this shiny ever again. :smiley_drive:
I washed it, clay bar'd it, buffed it out, waxed it, cleaned the glass. The interior had already been done a week or so ago, but I've got to do it again.
Also, I got my weathertech floor mats in for the front floorboards. Evidently they don't make them for the rear of the access cab trucks so I will likely get the husky liner rear mat.
Just about have the money for the line-x too. Also need to decide on seat covers.
I washed it, clay bar'd it, buffed it out, waxed it, cleaned the glass. The interior had already been done a week or so ago, but I've got to do it again.
Also, I got my weathertech floor mats in for the front floorboards. Evidently they don't make them for the rear of the access cab trucks so I will likely get the husky liner rear mat.
Just about have the money for the line-x too. Also need to decide on seat covers.
ExpoScout
Explorer
While I've been waiting for funds for bigger mods I decided to put some vent visors on as well as paint the mirrors. The chrome was just too much.
Also picked up supplies for diff breather extensions and large hose clamps to fix the cv boots that are slinging grease a little.
Changed oil over to synthetic (Mobil 1 10w-30, Bosch filter) and replaced fuel filter.
Hopefully I will have some more exciting mods soon.
Also picked up supplies for diff breather extensions and large hose clamps to fix the cv boots that are slinging grease a little.
Changed oil over to synthetic (Mobil 1 10w-30, Bosch filter) and replaced fuel filter.
Hopefully I will have some more exciting mods soon.
soonenough
Explorer
Looks good! Be glad you have a fuel filter that can be serviced, I wish the 05+ Tacomas could.
What'd you use to paint over the chrome on the mirrors? I did the chrome on my grill about a year ago with Krylon Fusion, but I got lazy and didn't prime it so it's already looking pretty rough.
What'd you use to paint over the chrome on the mirrors? I did the chrome on my grill about a year ago with Krylon Fusion, but I got lazy and didn't prime it so it's already looking pretty rough.
ExpoScout
Explorer
I used the satin krylon all in one primer/paint. It's all about prep. I just made sure to sand the chrome really good so the surface had a uniform roughed up surface. And I did take the covers off to prep and paint.
surlydiesel
Adventurer
Time to hit the grill as well with some black. Still can't get over the deal you found. There is a 5spd Tundra over here in Easton PA with only 66XXX on it but I can't justify a car payment when my truck is in such great shape. They want 16K for the thing...
-jorge
-jorge
ExpoScout
Explorer
Yes, the rest of the chrome will be gone at some point. I'm just trying to figure out how I want to get rid of it.
I'm still really pleased with the deal I got as well. Keep your eyes open, you never know.
ExpoScout
Explorer
ExpoScout
Explorer
As Storz said above, I got to spend some time in the 4x4 only area of the outer banks. We had a blast and I drove nearly 150 miles in the sand and through the dunes. The tundra did great in its pretty much stock form but it gave me a good idea of some mods that would help it in sandy conditions. I threw the camper on, even though its still for sale. It was really handy and I'm a little torn with letting it go but I have to think a topper that's even with the top of the cab would be better for my needs (possibly a rack or RTT compatible). Here are some pics:
ExpoScout
Explorer
Still here...
So after about two years of putting off mods I went ahead and made an order from Wheeler's last night. Steel wheels and 5100s are on the way. I threw in a diff drop kit just for the heck of it. Now I just have to decide which tires and which size of tire...
I'm really leaning towards the 265/75 as I don't feel like running into any rubbing issues or cv problems. But a part of me wants 255/85s. I really don't know that they'd be necessary though with what I plan on doing with the truck and I feel like they might cause more problems than they are worth in the long run.
I actually took a measuring tape to the fenderwells yesterday and the rear sits 3" higher than the front. So I'm likely not going to do anything to the rear right now other than the 5100s and I'll try the front on the fourth notch (one less than the highest setting). Hopefully this will accomplish what I want without negatively affecting anything.
I gotta start saving for a winch bumper now but I have an impending move coming up (hopefully out West) so who knows when I'll get around to that. The wheels/tires/shocks is certainly my main priority right now.
Oh, and the odometer is up to 46k now I'm waiting til I get out west to really put the miles on her.
So after about two years of putting off mods I went ahead and made an order from Wheeler's last night. Steel wheels and 5100s are on the way. I threw in a diff drop kit just for the heck of it. Now I just have to decide which tires and which size of tire...
I'm really leaning towards the 265/75 as I don't feel like running into any rubbing issues or cv problems. But a part of me wants 255/85s. I really don't know that they'd be necessary though with what I plan on doing with the truck and I feel like they might cause more problems than they are worth in the long run.
I actually took a measuring tape to the fenderwells yesterday and the rear sits 3" higher than the front. So I'm likely not going to do anything to the rear right now other than the 5100s and I'll try the front on the fourth notch (one less than the highest setting). Hopefully this will accomplish what I want without negatively affecting anything.
I gotta start saving for a winch bumper now but I have an impending move coming up (hopefully out West) so who knows when I'll get around to that. The wheels/tires/shocks is certainly my main priority right now.
Oh, and the odometer is up to 46k now
I'm waiting til I get out west to really put the miles on her.
775tundra
Explorer
Still here...
So after about two years of putting off mods I went ahead and made an order from Wheeler's last night. Steel wheels and 5100s are on the way. I threw in a diff drop kit just for the heck of it. Now I just have to decide which tires and which size of tire...
I'm really leaning towards the 265/75 as I don't feel like running into any rubbing issues or cv problems. But a part of me wants 255/85s. I really don't know that they'd be necessary though with what I plan on doing with the truck and I feel like they might cause more problems than they are worth in the long run.
I actually took a measuring tape to the fenderwells yesterday and the rear sits 3" higher than the front. So I'm likely not going to do anything to the rear right now other than the 5100s and I'll try the front on the fourth notch (one less than the highest setting). Hopefully this will accomplish what I want without negatively affecting anything.
I gotta start saving for a winch bumper now but I have an impending move coming up (hopefully out West) so who knows when I'll get around to that. The wheels/tires/shocks is certainly my main priority right now.
Oh, and the odometer is up to 46k now
Yesterday I put on my 5100 and my truck sits perfectly level at the 2 inch spot. I'm running 285/75/16 and have had very minimal rubbing.
ExpoScout
Explorer
Finally!
Ok, so my 5100's came in along with the wheelers steelies. After much gnashing of teeth and tossing and turning at night in bed I decided on 265/75s. Yeah, I might go larger later, but this is a pretty nice upgrade from where I was and honestly I like not having clearance issues. But alas, they are just tires and do wear out...so there'll be more time for me to go larger later.
Anyway, I also ordered the black lug nuts and gorilla locks in black while I was at it. I also purchased the diff drop though I have not installed it yet.
The install of the shocks went pretty easy...well, as easy as it can go doing it by yourself without air tools. Couple tips for those of you doing it in the future:
For the fronts: make sure that the top nut is cranked all the way down before trying to get the assembly installed. I thought "ah, it won't be a problem and I'll tighten the top nut after the weight of the truck is on there". Well, it was a problem and was a pain in the butt to get the bottom bolt in. Also, I just installed the bolts with the nuts to the rear instead of to the front like they were from the factory. If anyone knows why this would be a problem let me know, but it was much easier. Also, the spring compressors you rent from auto parts stores don't work well on the tundra springs (I'm reusing stock springs). But they did work, it wasn't fun though. If I were doing it again I would just pull the assemblies and take them to a place that had a proper spring compressor and let them do it in five minutes. I read this advice before and thought "Nah"....but trust me it would be easier.
For the rears: I would like to start off by saying that I hope the sonovabitch that designed the top of the shocks to be so inaccessible catches the seven year itch. With that out of the way, the bottoms are easy...the tops are not. Do yourself a favor and grind flat spots on the shafts or do like I did and weld a scrap piece of steel to the shaft so it hits something as it starts to spin. This was really easy and made things go quickly....or as quick as was possibly while still having to mess with turning a wrench in such tight quarters. Oh and if you don't have a ratcheting box end wrench GET ONE. Stock top nut is 14mm, 5100s top nut is 17mm.
I took measurements along the way and pictures as well. Prior to the change I had 265/70s and completely stock suspension. Here are the measurements to the bottom of the fender wells. Oh, and this is listed in the order that I did the mods. I installed the fronts last night, got the tires on this morning, added the rears this afternoon. Also, if I didn't mention it I went with 4th notch up, which was supposed to be 2" of lift:
Stock:
Front: 34" Rear: 36.5"
After front shocks installed:
Front: 36.125" Rear: 36.5"
After new tires:
Front: 37.25" Rear: 37.125"
After rear shocks installed:
Front 37.25" Rear: 37.25"
Prior to mounting the wheels up I measured my 265/70s which were fairly worn and they came out right at 30". The new Goodyear Duratracs in 265/75 measured at 31 5/8". Obviously this was not with the weight of the truck on them but I thought it was an interesting comparison since the tacoma world tire calculator put the 265/75s almost exactly at this size but the 265/70s were listed at .6" under what mine were....and I don't think I had .6" of wear. In any event, I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Now I just have to get an alignment this week. I also noticed that I have a torn steering rack boot which I will have to deal with also. I may just have the shop do both at the same time so I don't have to fuss with it.
Here are some pics in the same order of the measurements I listed above (stock no lift, fronts installed on factory wheels/tires, new tires installed, and rears installed):
I also hose clamped the front CVs while I was under there. I added a breather line for the rear as well. For the breather I just got the proper fitting, installed it on the housing, used some 3/8" line, ran it up by the frame and to the area behind the driverside taillight. I terminated it with a fuel filter that had a 3/8" nipple. I used this technique with breathers many times before and it keeps junk from getting in the line but allows air to flow. If you do this leave slack above the axle to account for droop. Here are some pics:
Here are the final pics of the truck as it sits now:
Any questions just ask. I think next up will be deciding if I'm going to install the diff drop. I need to do some tune up stuff here soon as well...
Thanks for stopping in.
Ok, so my 5100's came in along with the wheelers steelies. After much gnashing of teeth and tossing and turning at night in bed I decided on 265/75s. Yeah, I might go larger later, but this is a pretty nice upgrade from where I was and honestly I like not having clearance issues. But alas, they are just tires and do wear out...so there'll be more time for me to go larger later.
Anyway, I also ordered the black lug nuts and gorilla locks in black while I was at it. I also purchased the diff drop though I have not installed it yet.
The install of the shocks went pretty easy...well, as easy as it can go doing it by yourself without air tools. Couple tips for those of you doing it in the future:
For the fronts: make sure that the top nut is cranked all the way down before trying to get the assembly installed. I thought "ah, it won't be a problem and I'll tighten the top nut after the weight of the truck is on there". Well, it was a problem and was a pain in the butt to get the bottom bolt in. Also, I just installed the bolts with the nuts to the rear instead of to the front like they were from the factory. If anyone knows why this would be a problem let me know, but it was much easier. Also, the spring compressors you rent from auto parts stores don't work well on the tundra springs (I'm reusing stock springs). But they did work, it wasn't fun though. If I were doing it again I would just pull the assemblies and take them to a place that had a proper spring compressor and let them do it in five minutes. I read this advice before and thought "Nah"....but trust me it would be easier.
For the rears: I would like to start off by saying that I hope the sonovabitch that designed the top of the shocks to be so inaccessible catches the seven year itch. With that out of the way, the bottoms are easy...the tops are not. Do yourself a favor and grind flat spots on the shafts or do like I did and weld a scrap piece of steel to the shaft so it hits something as it starts to spin. This was really easy and made things go quickly....or as quick as was possibly while still having to mess with turning a wrench in such tight quarters. Oh and if you don't have a ratcheting box end wrench GET ONE. Stock top nut is 14mm, 5100s top nut is 17mm.
I took measurements along the way and pictures as well. Prior to the change I had 265/70s and completely stock suspension. Here are the measurements to the bottom of the fender wells. Oh, and this is listed in the order that I did the mods. I installed the fronts last night, got the tires on this morning, added the rears this afternoon. Also, if I didn't mention it I went with 4th notch up, which was supposed to be 2" of lift:
Stock:
Front: 34" Rear: 36.5"
After front shocks installed:
Front: 36.125" Rear: 36.5"
After new tires:
Front: 37.25" Rear: 37.125"
After rear shocks installed:
Front 37.25" Rear: 37.25"
Prior to mounting the wheels up I measured my 265/70s which were fairly worn and they came out right at 30". The new Goodyear Duratracs in 265/75 measured at 31 5/8". Obviously this was not with the weight of the truck on them but I thought it was an interesting comparison since the tacoma world tire calculator put the 265/75s almost exactly at this size but the 265/70s were listed at .6" under what mine were....and I don't think I had .6" of wear. In any event, I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Now I just have to get an alignment this week. I also noticed that I have a torn steering rack boot which I will have to deal with also. I may just have the shop do both at the same time so I don't have to fuss with it.
Here are some pics in the same order of the measurements I listed above (stock no lift, fronts installed on factory wheels/tires, new tires installed, and rears installed):
I also hose clamped the front CVs while I was under there. I added a breather line for the rear as well. For the breather I just got the proper fitting, installed it on the housing, used some 3/8" line, ran it up by the frame and to the area behind the driverside taillight. I terminated it with a fuel filter that had a 3/8" nipple. I used this technique with breathers many times before and it keeps junk from getting in the line but allows air to flow. If you do this leave slack above the axle to account for droop. Here are some pics:
Here are the final pics of the truck as it sits now:
Any questions just ask. I think next up will be deciding if I'm going to install the diff drop. I need to do some tune up stuff here soon as well...
Thanks for stopping in.