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Thread: 2nd gen Toyota Tacoma: Camp-Sportsmen/Family build.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011

    Default 2nd gen Toyota Tacoma: Camp-Sportsmen/Family build.

    2005 2nd Generation Tacoma: Camp-Sportsmen/Family build.

    Toyota Tacoma Build Sheet
    Front suspension:
    -#TBC3 (Tacoma Backcountry stage 3 kit) for extra load in front and rear and extra travel with uni-ball UCA. -Sway bar Remove
    Rear Suspension:
    -#TBC3 (Tacoma backcountry stage 3 kit) extra load in front and rear.
    - Shackle flip kit in rear, Longer brake lines, U-bolt flip, Dakar springs minus AAL
    CBI Offroad Hybrid front bumper - CBI Offroad Bold on sliders - CBI Offroad Hybrid rear bumper.
    Overland/Recovery gear
    Snug Top XTR canopy
    Front Runner rack on canopy / Front Runner awning and gear/accessories.
    -Added aluminum tubing in bed for extra strength and support with canopy. Remove stress on bed sides.
    -10 gallons extra fuel, 14-21 gallons extra water., Old school Coleman Camp stove-white gas, Propane BBQ, Lantern
    -Axe, shovel, hatchet, Chainsaw.
    -COME UP 12k light winch with wireless remote.
    -A lot of straps, recovery rope and more-too much to list.
    -Hi-lift, bottle jack.
    -Full size spare.
    -Deep water diff breather mod.
    -30” LED lightbar center bumper
    -18w LED spot fog/driving bumper
    -18w LED mounted to CBI Offroad ditch light brackets-Bottom of pillars. Super helpful lighting when on trails and skinny roads.
    -10w x 6 rock/camp lights under truck. Great for camping, setting up camp, looking under vehicle, provides good light without shining in your eyes.
    -Lights on Front Runner rack 4- 10w on sides and 2- 18w on back.
    -10w LED flood in canopy.
    -OBA in bed box
    -E-locker rear axle
    -Uniden CB.
    - I-PAD mounted center console.
    -3 bank battery status monitor-center console.
    -COME UP 12k Light winch-with wireless remote.
    - Dual Batteries relocated passenger side behind bench seats. External plug at rear bumper for 3rd remote battery charging/trailer power.
    -APM driver side engine bay.
    -HD Charge wire for trailer power.
    Water System/Hot water
    -Dual pumps
    - Suck out of water source pump #1
    - Fresh water tank system pump #2
    - Hose fittings on bumper.
    -Eccotemp LP L5 heating coil shower system.
    -COMEUP Winch 12k light wireless remote
    -Shovel, Axe, Hatchet, Chain-saw, Bottle jack, Hi-lift
    - Straps, shackles, snatch blocks, chain, come along, rope and more.
    -Tire chains
    Tires and Wheels
    -255/85/16 BFG KM2 tires
    -Factory Toyota 16” x 7” wheels with spares.
    Last edited by cam-shaft; 07-06-2015 at 02:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011

    Last edited by cam-shaft; 07-06-2015 at 02:28 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    I've enjoyed your practical and technical response to issues raised on this forum, so I naturally expect I will enjoy your own thread as well.

    This post was most likely made from my Tmobile Droid so spelling and punctuation errors are expected.

    2007 Toyota Tacoma DC 6spd. 4WD TRD - http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...rk-In-Progress

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Nice truck! love to see more pics?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Vancouver, WA
    Did the 255/85-16 tires fit without trimming? And are you using spacers in the front to clear the tire chains? Also did the spare matching tire fit or did you have to do any modifications?

    I have been looking to put 235/85-16's on the OEM wheels with a matching spare under the bed and it was my understanding that that tire was the biggest that would fit in the factory location under the bed and not require any trimming or modifications to the cab mounts or fender lining. Are you still running the factory gears and how are they coping with the new larger tires?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011

    Default CBI Offroad bolt on sliders.

    Here is one of my first mods, I chose CBI offroad. They were and still are an excellent company to deal with and their fab works is top notch. I have done business with them more then once since purchasing their sliders. I wanted a bolt on slider and I felt that CBI offroad offered the best. Sliders were a fairly early mod for me to avoid any forever lasting cab damage. I recovered this from the defunct ttora web site.

    This is what they look like on floor before install.

    Tools needed for job plus a good helper.

    Couple of jackstands and good creeper to hold sliders before the heave hoe.

    Shows driver side: unbolt the brake line junction before hanging slider. You will understand reasoning for this later on.

    Shows sliders being held up with jackstand and where your fastener nut welded to a peice of flat-stock needs to be inserted into frame before trying to bolt sliders in place. Notice the off-center of nut on flat-stock. Do the same.

    Shows how nut will sit inside frame. Dont mind the $hitty cold Toyota welds.

    Get on creeper and grab 1/2" bolt and lift slider up toward nut and start threading, do not thread snug.

    Pic showing how the back of slider should still be resting on jack stand.

    Grab 3 bolts that have large square washers with them. These will be used for the existing holes on frame.

    Shows where one goes thru frame and this is why you removed the brake line junction mounting bolt.

    Shows another bolt going thru existing hole in frame. It is important that you get the washer, as shown in pic, above the overlapped frame rail so that the washer sits flat on the frame.

    Shows after you get all 3 side bolts in start tightening them. Using a floor jack to push up on the sliders so that the bottom part of slider is tight agains the lower frame. Dont forget the very forward side bolt that goes in the boxed portion of the frame.

    Shows importance of floor jack to get washer to fit above frame overlap when tightening.

    Shows back support bracket that needs to be marked with a scribe so you can drill the frame. Make sure sliders are snug and in correct position before marking. Once you mark remove the sliders so you can drill back hole.

    Shows sliders back on after removal for drilling of rear slider support. I used some primer on the frame for the holes that I drilled just to slow down rust factor. I will eventually paint over primer.

    I cut 2 pieces of 1/4 rubber fuel hose 12" long each. These will be used to go over the brake lines that pass over one of the mounting bolts on the drivers side. This is probably not necessary but I dont like things to chaffe. Yes you will have to slice these open to slide over brake lines.

    Shows where the 1/4" rubber fuel line goes. You will understand once you see it.

    I remounted the brake junction, I installed 2 thick metric washers between the frame and brake junction to further help keep the brake lines off of the bolt also.

    On to drilling the bottom mounting holes. A good 1/2" drill and drill bit and some oil.

    A little afro engineering worked real well. I drilled one hole using just my body and it made me think there has got to be a better way. The floor jack and drill technique was a huge time and energy saver.

    After done drilling all of your holes install your bolts and go through and check tightness of all bolts and nuts.
    Then do the jack check, "Well I would say that they are working as advertised. "

    Showing side view, notice how straight they are with the cab. That is Fabulous!

    These sliders have been on truck since May of 2010 and I have no complaints.
    Last edited by cam-shaft; 07-24-2013 at 04:08 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011

    Default UHMW under-sliders. Keep the kids from falling through.

    UHMW (Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene) skid for sliders. Kid tested and mother approved. Super strong plastic material.
    I decided to add some UHMW to my sliders for kids climbing in safely, debris protection on truck,(especially fall and winter months in Northwest) and a skid surface for sliders. If you have kids you understand that a simple,” let’s load up and rock on out of here,” can take a few extra minutes.

    Tools needed.
    -Drill, preferably two, one for the 3/16 bit and one for the 15/64 bit for oversizing UHMW.
    -3/16 drill bit and a second drill bit 15/64. The 15/64 bit is to oversize the UHMW otherwise the rivet will be too tight and cause the UHMW to ripple over time.
    -File, Air saw, this is good for the corner cuts. Some ways to cut the UHMW: Table saw would work great, or have the place you buy it from cut the length and width for you. Then all you have to do is cut edges, in which an air saw works well for this.
    -Good spring clamps for holding UHMW for mock up.
    -Tape measure/paint pen for marking.
    -Creeper works well for rolling around the floor when installing.
    -3/16 large head rivets (aluminum is what I preferred). One can get them in black also but I already had a large amount of the unfinished rivets so I went with them.
    -Creeper works well for rolling around the floor when installing.
    -¼ UHMW is what I went with, I should have gone with ½”. If I have to replace them I will use ½ UHMW. Plus with the ½” there would be more material for countersinking your fasteners. Black or white, white may actually be better because it would dissipate heat more and be less likely to become wavy. I chose black.
    -3/16 aluminum large head rivets. One could go with stainless but no reason to make rivets harder to drill out. If rivet head slides over rock, stainless rivet will still be damaged just as the aluminum. You pick the thickness that will work for your situation.
    -Sliders of course….CBI off-road was my choice.
    -You may need to drill some drain holes if you think it is necessary.
    -This mod helps keep debris from hitting side of truck, not for the rock bashers.
    -You could cut UHMW in sections so that sections can be replaced as needed vs. having to replace whole piece if damage occurs.

    Start with this.

    Black 1/4" UHMW cut pretty close to size from plastic company. Recommend going with 1/2".

    Tools for job.

    Good clamps work well, when installing and drilling start from front and work your way back. You want the product to lay flat.

    Rivets 6" apart.

    Added some hi-lift cutouts.
    Last edited by cam-shaft; 03-21-2013 at 01:05 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Quote Originally Posted by cam-shaft View Post
    CBI Offroad tire carrier set up before I made 255/85/16 tire fit under truck. On a gitout trip at a local OHV park.

    Picture taken by Allan Leahy Photo.
    How did you make the pizza cutter tire fit under the truck?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011

    Default Toyota tacoma dual/multiple battery relocation system.

    Lets do some electronics for now.

    2nd generation Tacoma dual/triple battery relocation system/.

    Dual full size batteries located behind the back seats of the 2nd generation Tacoma, the area of the truck that I never use. Off set of the fuel tank of course, what better spot for this system, out of the elements and in a controlled environment, for the most part.

    This C-lution system is overkill for most but will be able to handle anything thrown its way. The batteries are a newly released battery by Interstate, AGM MT-7-34. This system will fit just about any size battery. 3rd battery can be located in factory location if I think I need it. This battery system was designed for full redundancy and operator has complete control over it.

    [B]Interstate Battery MT-7-34: [/B](Absorbed Glass Mat) AGM. MT-7-34. Battery was built by Odyssey batteries to meet Interstates batteries specific requirements. Battery has currently been in testing, at interstate factory. Battery has withstood 500cycles at 80%depth of discharge. In simpler terms test has been for 500 days and has achieved 500 absolute complete discharges and been completely re-charged back to life, (Discharge test takes 1 complete day). Should work out perfect for accessory discharge items plus plenty of cca’s to run winch systems and start motors. This what kills a lot of batteries: being fully discharged and not able to be fully charged back to life.

    Back seat:

    Behind back seat System is capable of handling 3 batteries.

    This is how it looks with everything taken out of back to prepare for multiple battery system.

    Had to make a custom aluminum dual battery tray for application. Tray has 1" lip all around and is raised for hold down straps going underneath. Just some group 24 mock up batteries in tray

    Used some rive-nuts to hold tray.

    Tray:showing how I raised the tray with flat stock. This also helps with countersinking into tray and tray sitting flat, due to ribs in floor of cab.

    Shows factory hole in cab that I used to run wire. Just remove rubber grommet. This hole is in the center and at the highest point of undercab.

    I used a thru-hull fitting(marine) for running my wire through. This fitting is plastic and keeps wire from rubbing on metal cab. Worked perfect.

    Went with marine grade .75" Sea board for backing to mount electronics too.

    This is how it looks before any electronics are mounted, just a bare canvas.

    Showing how I ran the wire under truck.

    Here is the whole arena, Sure power 3 battery bank isolator.

    Pic shows how my engine bay is configured now. NO heavy battery on the front left corner anymore. Reducing weight up front as much as possible for the added weight of the bumper and winch. Plus now I have a spot to mount my COMEUP winch solenoids and wireless remote. Main power switch is for turning power off to winch and turning on jumper studs if the need arises.

    Thanks, Cam-shaft.
    Last edited by cam-shaft; 05-23-2015 at 01:30 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    camano is, wa
    Nice job! I can appreciate the work and time involved, I just finished my dual battery system in my first gen Taco.

    Anywhere I roam where I lay my head is home.... Metallica, the black album.



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