Thread: bed storage

  1. #1
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    Default bed storage

    I plan on building a custom storage unit for the bed of Stormy. It'll just be between the fenderwells. I'm planning on two small bins towards the rear(close to the tailgate) and one larger one at the front of the bed(by the cab). Hinged and lockable are really not options. Gas struts to lift the large door. Weather resistant carpeting. Maybe some sort of gasket to prevent water from getting in side (keep in mind the bed is now covered by a Softtopper). Stainless screws.

    The lifting handles would be similar to what you would find on a bass boat.

    Would also be nice to have it strong enough to support the weight of two people in case we needed to sleep in the bed.

    About 12-14 inches deep.

    Any recommendations or advice/words of wisdom?
    Peace and Mud,
    Patrick, Cyndi, Genavieve, & Rhyse
    www.nissanoffroad.net

  2. #2
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    Here's a shot of the storage/sleeping platform in my Element.



    The vertical supports are nominal 10x1 pine boards, with slotted steel angle bolted along the top edge. 1x3 boards are bolted across the top, with recessed bolt holes. These are topped with 2' wide, 1/2" plywood, which are held in place with pan head furniture bolts.

    Span between verticals is about 40"; length front to back is 4'. For sleeping I extend the platform by 2' on to the tailgate, or I can lower the front seat backs.

    Using the slotted steel and 1/4" hardware through out makes it easy to assemble and disassemble the platform, as well as modify it. I use turnbuckles to secure the platform to tiedown loops.

    I could have used 3/4" ply, but it is convenient to assemble the basic framework of verticals and cross boards first. The top panels can be added or removed individually without messing with the basic structure.

    In contrast to what is shown in the picture, I bolt the spare to the floor toward the front of the platform, and cover the (compact) spare well with a wood panel, with storage of tools and such below. It is most convenient to get at storage under the platform from the back, just sliding things like plastic boxes in.

    Since this platform is inside the car, I haven't worried about rust or water damage. I did, though, finish the plywood panels with clear polyurethane. For appearance, I use nicer birch plywood, though usually I cover the plywood with foam panels (2x2 interlocking ones).

    paulj
    Last edited by paulj; 03-07-2006 at 08:09 PM.

  3. #3
    Hltoppr's Avatar
    Hltoppr is offline Overland Training Alumni
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    El Gringo Spectacular!
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    Cool, but I like the hotel in Batopilas for bed storage....

    -H-
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    Andrew

  4. #4
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    I think pine wouldn't last but I do like the overall design. I wasn't sure that 1x10 would be strong enough. Looks like it to me now.
    Peace and Mud,
    Patrick, Cyndi, Genavieve, & Rhyse
    www.nissanoffroad.net

  5. #5
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    I used pine for the verticals because the dimensions fit my need (clearance for a spare tire and 8 gallon Rubbermaid boxes), and was cheap and easy to work. I can see where one might worry about strength with a vertical load and grain running horizontal. If it was free standing that would be more of a concern, but here it is braced against the sides of the car.

    If I wanted something taller, I'd have to cut the sides from 3/4" plywood, or build them up from small pieces.

    Some years ago I made full length storage bin along one wheel well of a pickup. I used two 1" boards, epoxied edge to edge. But it was also braced with several vertically oriented boards - one splicing board near the middle, and two end panels. That structure was also coated on all sides with epoxy.

    paulj

  6. #6
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    Epoxy only or epoxy and screwed?
    Peace and Mud,
    Patrick, Cyndi, Genavieve, & Rhyse
    www.nissanoffroad.net

  7. #7
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    I don't recall the details now. I'd bought epoxy in bulk along with some fillers and glass from a company that supplies boat builders, especially those using epoxy-on-wood and stitch-and-glue methods. I may have used screws to hold pieces together while the epoxy set, but most of the joint strength came from the epoxy plus fiberglass filler.

    In stitch-and-glue method, parts held together with wire ties, epoxy with filler and fiber glass tape is applied. The wires are removed after the epoxy has set.

    http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.asp

    It's a messy construction method, but a good option if you don't have a garage full of routers and milling machines.
    http://boatbuildercentral.com/help/Stitch_and_glue.htm
    http://www.boatbuilder.org/stitchandglue.htm
    http://www.westsystem.com/ (esp. their user manual)


    paulj
    Last edited by paulj; 03-08-2006 at 06:04 PM.

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