2020 Ram 5500 DIY Composite Panel Camper Build Thread

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
That's a good improvement just to bad the 45° extrusion wasn't made with a 3-4"R. Maybe that can happen if there's a switch molded corners.

Wonder about insulation in the 45° to prevent condensation over the bunk.


The void in the extrusion will be filled with rigid foam. We matched the radius to our 90 degree extrusion.
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Well I guess I know who I am copying! AGAIN! Thanks @Brad_UT and Camperthing!

Careful now...

I usually think things through 10-20x and figure out the pros and cons before doing anything... Well... Except for this idea!! :p

This project kind of snowballed into quite "a thing" and for now, its all buttoned up and the USB and 120V are functional and thats how its going to stay for a bit.

The actual plumbing of all the lines and such to get the gauges and switches fully functional is going to be quite an ordeal. One i simply dont have the time to dive into right now.

Its going to be one of those things that once i start i need to go all in and get it done, cant really chip away at it in stages.

So yeah.... hahahaha
 

StenchRV

Well-known member
Trying to think things 10X over! BEFORE final box dimensions are set and sent off to TC in a few weeks. Read through the entire thread YET AGAIN, for heights weights, measurements. Logged all on the note pad. Two measurements I am looking for….please. 1 measurement between the top of the cab and the underside of the box over the cab. 2. Inside measurement for the bed area without the awesome mattress you have…LOL! I know the feeling, two back surgeries so the right mattress is a MUST. Using my B.A.D. (blue tap aided design) on the hanger floor and wall! LOL

I am giving thought to having a 6.5” subfloor (inside the door a 2’x2‘ landing) then a step up into the living area. 3 pull out drawers on each “face” of the landing. For a few different reasons, water and grey tank inside the box. YES I camp when it is cold and well below freezing at night. The outside accessible storage areas 1 large like your exterior box (just inside) 1 smaller on the drivers side, would be a bit larger…no subfloors there. The bathroom would be a easy plumbing job. One of The main reasons is making the height above the bed a bit taller so I have a little lower room to give up an still wind up with about 6’4” interior height (goal) and keep the rig around 11’6” exterior height (goal).

Our box will be very close to yours, size wise, minus the front area you chose to do. Our box will be just behind the cab a few inches but just about the same length and width. Spare mounted to the rear wall and then smaller boxes, like yours, mounted below, copying you….?.

THOUGHTS? IDEAS?

GROUP?

THANK YOU!! CHEERS!!!

1 more thing. I will probably be using 8020 for the interior build out. The layout will closely resemble an ER but NO PASS THROUGH, so an L couch against the forward wall and drivers side. Long kitchen down the passenger side wall. Rear closet and wardrobe. Good sized wet bath, just ordered the airhead toilet at the MTN WEST Expo.

CHEERS!
 
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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Two measurements I am looking for….please. 1 measurement between the top of the cab and the underside of the box over the cab. 2. Inside measurement for the bed area

1) 4 1/4” from sheet metal of cab roof to bottom of cab over

2) 32” from bed floor to ceiling

I’ve been very hesitant to post my dimension sketches because there’s so many variables during construction, I think it’s a recipe for disaster really because no 2 builds will be identical.

That and I put a ton of effort and research Into making this all work and most other folks seem to be lazy and want to be spoon fed answers ??‍♂️

But you’ve at least read my thread (documenting all the build info is the entire point of a build thread) so you get a pass ?
 
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StenchRV

Well-known member
Thank you for the dimensions….and the PASS! ? We have been researching for over a year and watching a bunch of build videos, researching and gathering information like crazy. Thank you for making the videos. I know it is a PITA to do and deal with but know you are providing helpful information. You are correct, people need to do their OWN research and compile various information to make informed choices. As a 30 year RV‘r I know systems, teach them at rallies, but this forum provides a TON of information for a “new” Overlander. Trying not to be a GARY!!!

THANK YOU!

I have a class A diesel chassis and handling forum with 200k plus hits and TONS of questions from people who are not willing to put in the time to READ A LITTLE! I GET IT, and the last thing I want to be is someones PITA!.
That is a subtle hit to Karen’s and Gary’s out there. No offense to real Karen and Gary’s of course, ??

CHEERS!
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Careful now...

I usually think things through 10-20x and figure out the pros and cons before doing anything... Well... Except for this idea!! :p

This project kind of snowballed into quite "a thing" and for now, its all buttoned up and the USB and 120V are functional and thats how its going to stay for a bit.

The actual plumbing of all the lines and such to get the gauges and switches fully functional is going to be quite an ordeal. One i simply dont have the time to dive into right now.

Its going to be one of those things that once i start i need to go all in and get it done, cant really chip away at it in stages.

So yeah.... hahahaha

Last century or so when everting was analog I remember there being 1/16" poly line in the control panels for the pressure gages.....might save some space.
 

smurfsky101

Member
Been re reading this thread, couldn't find it. Beyond the kelderman setup , what did you do for shocks? I'm not liking the ride quality with bags only in the rear, and bags plus ranchos in the front :/
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Been re reading this thread, couldn't find it. Beyond the kelderman setup , what did you do for shocks? I'm not liking the ride quality with bags only in the rear, and bags plus ranchos in the front :/

Yeah, the Ranchos that came with the kit are total trash.

If had planned on having custom ADS made for it once i got my final weight. But as of now, it’s tolerable with the ranchos in the front and the stock shocks in the rear.

I’ll eventually have custom shocks made at a later date.

I’m still kinda on the fence whether or not I’m going to keep the front bags or have springs made. ??‍♂️
 

smurfsky101

Member
What PSI do you usually end up running? Are you targeting 7.5" bag height per kelderman instructions? I've been tweaking, but cant find a setting that feels good offroad.

Right now i've got the ranchos in the middle setting (5 clicks i think) and front bags around 90 PSI , 85 PSI in the rear.

Camper weighs maybe 4500 lbs.
Going to start fiddling with less pressure in the bags / more dampening on the shocks today on some nasty UT trails.
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
What PSI do you usually end up running? Are you targeting 7.5" bag height per kelderman instructions? I've been tweaking, but cant find a setting that feels good offroad.

Right now i've got the ranchos in the middle setting (5 clicks i think) and front bags around 90 PSI , 85 PSI in the rear.

Camper weighs maybe 4500 lbs.
Going to start fiddling with less pressure in the bags / more dampening on the shocks today on some nasty UT trails.

Never really measured it or paid attention to their height, i just started with all bags are 65psi and played around with them accordingly

i believed i aired the bags all down to 40 or so, and the tires down to 30 or so offroad.

It was better than expected.
 
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zb39

Adventurer
My gauges show about 71PSI at all 4 corners when the camper is on. This of course changes as I drive because the computer keeps the truck at a certain ride height. I have 3 pre set ride heights. I run in the middle one. Then one high and one low for loading/unloading.
 

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