Sheet Flooring or similar for Provan Tiger CX

rawtoxic

Well-known member
Need to replace our sheet vinyl flooring in our older Provan Tiger CX. i can't decide what to get, I think I want a seamless marine style floor but not like carpet but more like lightly textured gym mats found some EVA foam sheets for boats/surfboards on Amazon but most are like 36" width

We do wear shoes inside, would like non-slip quality (texture finish but no coin mat), my lady would like it to have some sort of design appeal (no hunting boat camo look), there is a sloping section approx. 30 degree towards our pass-through (so like vinyl plank style flooring would not work), the width would need to be around 72" to make it seamless and length is close to 96" (6' width 8' length).
 

Snydmax

Member
Do a search for marine vinyl flooring… lots of cool options these days and you should easily be able to get a one-piece install as they use it for pontoons etc.
882e79385c5b4f63db1c4d4f4dd7e970.jpg



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rawtoxic

Well-known member
I have done this search but was a bit overwhelmed with amount of choices hoping for someone with a personal product reference or tips.
 

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
Fwiw,
I like good ’ol fashion linoleum. I installed alot of it refurbishing my old farmhouse.
The stuff used is ”Marmoleum” brand. They have some with antislip finish. Either by light embossing or by adding ground up coconut shell into the mix.
??
We used Marmoleum on one of our small kitchen remodels…it was very easy to work with, is durable and very attractive.
 

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
FWIW, we've had really great luck and wearability on flooring we special ordered from Home Depot in our Tiger. Easy to size and cut for a single piece install. Goodluck!


3A3CF130-4C0C-4196-994A-91DD84D012DC.jpegFE555180-14CD-476D-AAF7-2E48CADF6C86.jpeg0D6CD684-59CC-4BBF-A74A-BA74828A4282.jpeg
 

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
What was your method for cutting a single piece to such an odd shape?

I took several large sheets of brown paper, taped them all together, then laid them on the floor and carefully trimmed it with a razor knife to the outline of the floor. Any place I goofed up I would fill the void with tape and recut until the template fit perfectly. I transferred the template to the flooring and carefully drew around it and then using a very sharp razor knife cut the flooring out. Once I glued it down it was so snug to the shape of the floor I simply added a little clear caulk around the perimeter to help seal out any spills. Was done by lunchtime! Goodluck!
 

rawtoxic

Well-known member
Thanks everyone for input, I have used some Mannington Vinyl in our rental properties, pretty impressed with it so I will look at the products available. I figured there was a 'step-up' for the RV in quality. But they do have different grades of many of the household sheet vinyl products I've noticed. I watched the installer of our sheet vinyl do an old out of square kitchen with penisula and a bathroom extended off (a very difficult layout), he glued it down and cut in place seemed nerve wracking to do it right I will probably do the BritKLR method but maybe with cardboard scribe.

I did get some free samples of the marine vinyl boat flooring on the way from allvinylfabrics.com but I'm already worried they maybe too heavily textured for anti-slip qualities and hard to clean mud off which is a major factor for us. In Spring it's almost a nightly chore to sweep and mop our floor especially with our dog.
 

86scotty

Cynic
That teak plank flooring style (post #2 top right) looks really amazing. I think I might go this route for an upcoming van build.

I have used the coin style black flooring before, a really popular option these days but I found it to scratch very easily.

@BritKLR, how has it held up to the temp swings? No cracks?
 

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
That teak plank flooring style (post #2 top right) looks really amazing. I think I might go this route for an upcoming van build.

I have used the coin style black flooring before, a really popular option these days but I found it to scratch very easily.

@BritKLR, how has it held up to the temp swings? No cracks?

No problems at all, from typical -10 mountain weather to +100 degree weather out west. Can't say I even notice it anymore, it just works. Goodluck with your project!

F3A80D8C-A265-42F4-A927-89F6030FD0E0.jpeg
 

Snydmax

Member
Thanks everyone for input, I have used some Mannington Vinyl in our rental properties, pretty impressed with it so I will look at the products available. I figured there was a 'step-up' for the RV in quality. But they do have different grades of many of the household sheet vinyl products I've noticed. I watched the installer of our sheet vinyl do an old out of square kitchen with penisula and a bathroom extended off (a very difficult layout), he glued it down and cut in place seemed nerve wracking to do it right I will probably do the BritKLR method but maybe with cardboard scribe.

I did get some free samples of the marine vinyl boat flooring on the way from allvinylfabrics.com but I'm already worried they maybe too heavily textured for anti-slip qualities and hard to clean mud off which is a major factor for us. In Spring it's almost a nightly chore to sweep and mop our floor especially with our dog.

The textured marine stuff cleans up easy, but it on a boat, you can use lots of water or pressure wash… not ideal for a camper interior. I’d definitely stick to something smooth. The commercial vinyl should be a great solution. It’ll be slip resistant and durable


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rawtoxic

Well-known member
So.... Finally I have completed this project. I did a high-end residential sheet vinyl from AHF. Approx $150 for a 12' x 6' piece (have lots extra for little projects). Part of the reason was to do sheet vinyl was the fridge in my Tiger is set very low there is not clearance for thicker flooring and secondly I have a ramp to my pass-through. (Later I learned on the Tiger forum that the work around is raise the fridge and remove the ramp and make a step - still a lot of work!)

The project was tough, the old vinyl was very well attached, I had to remove it using a steam iron and a 4" razor scraper took over 8-10 hours to remove the floor entirely. Sorry no before pics but was ugly, damaged and dated.

Once the floor was off I had to sand and wood fill damage from me scraping and other defects. I had a few problems with the old floor mainly where a butt joint of my Tiger plywood was heaved. I fixed this by adding a 1x4 underneath the sheets and deck screws every 6" still had to sand smooth to get perfect. Tiger didn't butt sheets of plywood on the metal floor supports for some reason is what caused this.

tigerfloor5.jpeg
tigerfloor6.jpeg

I made a giant cardboard form of the floor in the Tiger and cut the sheet vinyl slightly bigger and trimmed the excess in place. I used an RV floor glue by RecPro I bought on Amazon, it was very quick drying which kind of kicked my behind, but I got it done. I glued half the floor and then the other half and may have had better results doing smaller sections or trimming before glue was down.

tigerfloor7.jpeg

It turned out pretty good without trim but there were some small areas I think needed it so I used a vinyl cove style 1/4" trim called 'Instatrim'. It is basically peel and stick but after I did a test piece I installed all mine with black silicone caulking for extra adhesion. The stair I used a corner guard black vinyl from Amazon that is made to make outside corners safer for kids and such. The hardest trim was the piece joining the cab I used a 3" black vinyl transition trim peel and stick I found on Amazon, whoever put the rubber on the truck floor did a bad job so I needed a very wide transition to cover some bad cuts this was also a very wavy area and I had to use narrow crown staples to hold the top flush to the floor. I also had to use silicone to secure this like all the other peel and stick used. Tiger had use real wood trim or aluminum and I am hoping this vinyl trim will actually last longer.

Tigerfloor4.jpegTigerfloor3.jpegTigerfloor2.jpegTigerfloor1.jpeg

Overall project with demo and trim probably took 20-25 hours like most projects could do it way faster the second time:) Total project costs with trim and glue/silicone was $250ish (had a few things needed on hand).
 
Last edited:

ReluctantTraveler

Active member
I actually just popped on to ask about flooring as well, so timely post! Lots of great product suggestions here already, so thank you!

For those of you with "below the floor" items (like tanks, batteries, etc.), how do you handle access to those things?

Still a marine-grade linoleum, but with an access door cut into it? Something else?
 

ReluctantTraveler

Active member
So.... Finally I have completed this project. I did a high-end residential sheet vinyl from AHF. Approx $150 for a 12' x 6' piece (have lots extra for little projects). Part of the reason was to do sheet vinyl was the fridge in my Tiger is set very low there is not clearance for thicker flooring and secondly I have a ramp to my pass-through. (Later I learned on the Tiger forum that the work around is raise the fridge and remove the ramp and make a step - still a lot of work!)

The project was tough, the old vinyl was very well attached, I had to remove it using a steam iron and a 4" razor scraper took over 8-10 hours to remove the floor entirely. Sorry no before pics but was ugly, damaged and dated.

Once the floor was off I had to sand and wood fill damage from me scraping and other defects. I had a few problems with the old floor mainly where a butt joint of my Tiger plywood was heaved. I fixed this by adding a 1x4 underneath the sheets and deck screws every 6" still had to sand smooth to get perfect. Tiger didn't butt sheets of plywood on the metal floor supports for some reason is what caused this.

View attachment 778421
View attachment 778420

I made a giant cardboard form of the floor in the Tiger and cut the sheet vinyl slightly bigger and trimmed the excess in place. I used an RV floor glue by RecPro I bought on Amazon, it was very quick drying which kind of kicked my behind, but I got it done. I glued half the floor and then the other half and may have had better results doing smaller sections or trimming before glue was down.

View attachment 778419

It turned out pretty good without trim but there were some small areas I think needed it so I used a vinyl cove style 1/4" trim called 'Instatrim'. It is basically peel and stick but after I did a test piece I installed all mine with black silicone caulking for extra adhesion. The stair I used a corner guard black vinyl from Amazon that is made to make outside corners safer for kids and such. The hardest trim was the piece joining the cab I used a 3" black vinyl transition trim peel and stick I found on Amazon, whoever put the rubber on the truck floor did a bad job so I needed a very wide transition to cover some bad cuts this was also a very wavy area and I had to use narrow crown staples to hold the top flush to the floor. I also had to use silicone to secure this like all the other peel and stick used. Tiger had use real wood trim or aluminum and I am hoping this vinyl trim will actually last longer.

View attachment 778422View attachment 778423View attachment 778424View attachment 778425

Overall project with demo and trim probably took 20-25 hours like most projects could do it way faster the second time:) Total project costs with trim and glue/silicone was $250ish (had a few things needed on hand).
That turned out amazing!
 

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