Blue Ox II

RU55ELL

Explorer
EDIT: They are the factory fog lights from a Jeep Wrangler.

The tanks are a little overkill, but I wanted something that could air up all 4 tires with no problem.
 
Last edited:

RU55ELL

Explorer
I finally got my sliders on. They are 4xInnovations and I got them from the guy I bought my ARB from. I had to cut the original legs off with a torch because they were too short when he cut them off of his truck and bought new DOM for new legs.

Tacked together for test fit:
27696_402498592009_681122009_4049887_3338410_n.jpg

27696_402498567009_681122009_4049884_6719318_n.jpg


Painted and ready to weld on the truck:
27696_402498607009_681122009_4049889_5916425_n.jpg


I cut 1/4" flatbar into 3" square pieces to weld to the frame and welded the sliders to those so I wouldn't run the risk of tearing holes in the frame.

I ran out of flux core wire about 3 beads short last night. This is what it looked like at that point:
27696_402498617009_681122009_4049891_6370725_n.jpg

27696_402498632009_681122009_4049893_735422_n.jpg


I got more wire today after church and finished the welding, then touched up the paint and washed the truck.

27696_402498637009_681122009_4049894_1308229_n.jpg

27696_402498657009_681122009_4049895_1327564_n.jpg

27696_402498662009_681122009_4049896_5304675_n.jpg


I think I have pretty much talked myself out of installing the air tanks on the truck. I can get by just fine with a small compressor and use the space for something else. Next up will probably be a winch.
 

RU55ELL

Explorer
I'll bring this back up for discussion about my predicament. Right now I have a Warn/Braden 12K winch, basically an old M12000 (built in '89), but it has a cracked housing so when you flip the clutch lever, it doesn't disengage the clutch. I think I can weld repair it since the new one is a little over 200 bucks. I also need to get a new controller for it, so that's another 150-175 or I can make an in-cab switch like Barlowrs did for his (most probable solution). The other conflict is, I would need to modify my ARB bumper to make it fit. The only problem I have with that is, if the winch goes bad and spare parts are not available, I would need to buy a new M12000 or leave a gaping hole in the top of my bumper and use a smaller, more affordable winch. Everything electrical on the winch is good, so I don't foresee anything happening to it.

So the question is, buy a new M8000 or use the M12000 and hope nothing happens with it?
 

maxama10

Welcome to Nevadafornia
If you think it's going to fail and are worried about fixing it, sell the M1200 and buy something else? I'd highly doubt that you couldn't fix it for cheaper than the cost of a new M8000 though. Or be my hero, buy an 8274 and chop up the bumper anyway? :sombrero:
 

RU55ELL

Explorer
I decided to go ahead and save my pennies for an M8000.

I took the truck to Angel Fire, NM for vacation and exploring some fire roads. We arrived at Angel Fire and I noticed my throwout bearing was chattering. :mad:

The truck only has 68k miles on it. From what I read, the clutch has plenty of life left in it, so I think I'll only swap the TO bearing and call it good. Has anyone else has one go out so prematurely?
 

speedtre

Explorer
Damn good looking truck.....did you have a build thread for your old 4runner? I'd like to see that if you did, I have a sweet spot for those 1st gen 4Runners...
 

RU55ELL

Explorer
Dunno. We set up a meeting spot and time. I got there 5 mins early, waited 30 more mins, no show, no call, no email, no nothing. Screw him.
 

RU55ELL

Explorer
Today a lesson was learned.

I had driven the truck to New Mexico and on a stop headed there, I noticed there was some soot on the fender by the tailpipe. The truck sometimes felt like it was missing under acceleration, but I never got a CEL.

I bought the truck used from a dealer with 61K on the clock. I specifically asked them if the 60K service had been performed and they said that it had. I had changed the fluids in the diffs, TC and tranny and the diff and they didn't look too bad. Well, I got some time to check the plugs and found that it still had the OEM plugs, Denso on the passenger side and NGK on the driver's side. The stock gap is .040 and the electrodes were so worn on these that they measured at .085. No wonder it was missing! :mad:

The plugs that came out:
CIMG0005-1.jpg


Comparing old vs new:
CIMG0002.jpg


I ended up buying NGK Iridiums for $7.xx each.
CIMG0004.jpg


Put them in, now it purrs like a kitten. The only things I removed to change them was the airbox on the passenger side and only had to unbolt the bar that holds the fuel line block to the engine. So, the lesson of the day is, trust but verify. :sombrero:
 

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