Gen. III rigs are getting harder to find at Pick-n-Pulls...
Is it worth it to spend the money on a new, oem replacement to you?
It is pricey, but at least your vehicle could be used for some off-highway fun this summer.
What was the rear diff. bushing replacement like?
How did you remove the worn bushings...pressed out, cut and hammered?
The motor mounts and front diff. bushings are a bit-of-a project, especially the front diff. bushings...the difference was noticeable, at least in my rig.
Tumble the second row of seats forward.
Open the access panel in the floor.
The top of the fuel cell is in front of you.
Open the gas cap, place some rags around the area and inspect the connections.
There is one fitting that uses a small o-ring (I think it is closer to the rear of the vehicle...
Gear Lube 4 should always be used when advised by the FSM.
Amsoil makes a GL4 as well as Redline and certainly MM.
I did this mod. many years ago and had one of the fellas on an Aussie forum post a filter to me in the states.
This post reminds me that I likely need a fresh filter in there... blowing the filter out with compressed air only works for some many miles...
As ChrisCosta stated...the headliner must be dropped to access the assembly.
Below is a post on replacing the factory rails...
I wouldn't recommend replacing the rails with oem.
If you're still searching for a console...
You can "make your own" out of an amo. can (choice of sizes), a hasp and lock, and some self tapping screws.
My kid and I just installed this set-up in her '86 Toyota 4x4 p/u. We finished it off by dialing the inside with a charging station...
Driving through the jungles of Central America ('81 Toyota 4x4 pickup 22R/Weber carb.) I brought box of fuel filters and changed them as needed- if I recall correctly, they were Fram filters. I had installed an in-line filter mounted on the inside front wheel-well in the engine bay, so swapping...