Would you build this van?

RXtacy

New member
Hi all. I've been lurking and reading on this site and getting inspiration for a while. I am looking for a van to use as a tow rig for my track car ~6-7k and also outfit for camping. I have found this 2001 wheel chair van with the V10 and low miles (53k), it looks to be in nice shape. My big concerns are with the wheel chair lift, the removed passenger seat, and extended step. I am mechanically inclined and have a decently equipped fab shop. I don't think removing the lift would be an issue, but I'm concerned with what modifications have been done to the van to accommodate it and the removed passenger seat. What are your thoughts? Also what would you pay for a van like this? Thanks for your time!

turner van 1.jpgturner van 6.jpgturner van 7.jpgturner van 2.jpg
 
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Bbasso

Expedition Leader
From my personal experience towing, try to get a 2005 or newer V10 because it has the 5R110 transmission in it which is far superior to the 4R100.
 

RXtacy

New member
From my personal experience towing, try to get a 2005 or newer V10 because it has the 5R110 transmission in it which is far superior to the 4R100.

Thanks for the info. I've heard the 5R110 was an improvement. From your experience what were the major benefits? Was it primarily fuel economy, reliability or something else? If it was driveability would changing the gearing make the older transmission acceptable?
 

Bbasso

Expedition Leader
Temperature consistency, shifting pattern, additional gears, tighter gear ratio, and the tow/haul button made it better. As for mpg, I cant say.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
The door extensions and 24" bubble top are huge if you are looking to use it for over-nighting/camping, you get door openings where you aren't knocking your head everytime you go in and out and you get 74" of interior head room so as long as you are 6'2" or less you can stand up without stooping.
Returning the front door to a conventional handle/latch should be easily done with some junkyard/used parts.
If you travel alone (primarily) there would be no need to restore the original front passenger seat, just install something comfortable a bit farther back and leave that area open.
I removed and sold the wheelchair lift that came with mine(rear door configured but same as yours) its heavy but not difficult work, it is nice that they have a heavy/high current power supply that you can use to run an inverter/house battery system with when the lift is out..
Install a shift kit, new filter and deep pan in the 4R100 and run a much larger cooler, there were thousands of those in Class C motorhomes for years, while they aren't as good 5R110 they will get the job done..
 

RXtacy

New member
Temperature consistency, shifting pattern, additional gears, tighter gear ratio, and the tow/haul button made it better. As for mpg, I cant say.

Understood thanks. My biggest issue with finding a newer one is budget. I really don't want to go much above $7k, and if possible of course would like to be lower.

The door extensions and 24" bubble top are huge if you are looking to use it for over-nighting/camping, you get door openings where you aren't knocking your head everytime you go in and out and you get 74" of interior head room so as long as you are 6'2" or less you can stand up without stooping.
Returning the front door to a conventional handle/latch should be easily done with some junkyard/used parts.
If you travel alone (primarily) there would be no need to restore the original front passenger seat, just install something comfortable a bit farther back and leave that area open.
I removed and sold the wheelchair lift that came with mine(rear door configured but same as yours) its heavy but not difficult work, it is nice that they have a heavy/high current power supply that you can use to run an inverter/house battery system with when the lift is out..
Install a shift kit, new filter and deep pan in the 4R100 and run a much larger cooler, there were thousands of those in Class C motorhomes for years, while they aren't as good 5R110 they will get the job done..

I've been on the fence in regards to the high top. I'm only 5'8" but can definitely see the benefit of being able to stand up. Unfortunately it also means I can't get it into my shop to use my lift :(
Ideally this will become the family adventure rig so a passenger seat next to the drivers seat would be nice for the wife I think.

What do you guys think is a fair price for this van? The seller is asking $10k which I think is quite high. I'm going to see it on Friday. Hopefully he'll be willing to come down significantly.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
Ditch the passenger step, lift and other remnants of the the van's former life and you have a good basis for a dual purpose build. Adding a front passenger seat is a piece of cake easy.

Yes the transmission "could" be an issue HOWEVER look at the reality of how much you are going to drive the van and you already know that it's a weak point so logic says you will keep that in mind and make the needed upgrades to the tranny while this van is still low mileage. The transmission is the weak link in virtually all late model vehicles!

As far as price being "too high" (your words) you will be paying for the "Low Miles" on the van. What's that worth to YOU???

Go for it!
 

Corneilius

Adventurer
The modifications done for wheelchair lifts are sometimes significant, depends on the up fitter shop. Some are easy to return to stock, some are impossible. I think you'd be farther ahead to start with a regular van. Looks like they cut the ENTIRE roof out and have probably installed a big steel subfloor. Potentially a "drop floor" which means they dropped the fuel tank down too.

I would pass, for that money you can get a van that hasn't been significantly modified
 
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RXtacy

New member
Ditch the passenger step, lift and other remnants of the the van's former life and you have a good basis for a dual purpose build. Adding a front passenger seat is a piece of cake easy.

Yes the transmission "could" be an issue HOWEVER look at the reality of how much you are going to drive the van and you already know that it's a weak point so logic says you will keep that in mind and make the needed upgrades to the tranny while this van is still low mileage. The transmission is the weak link in virtually all late model vehicles!

As far as price being "too high" (your words) you will be paying for the "Low Miles" on the van. What's that worth to YOU???

Go for it!

Not 10k :ROFLMAO:
The low miles are overall a benefit, but something that has only been driven ~3k miles/yr can come with it's own set of problems also. Dry rotted rubber everywhere for instance.

I'm just having a hard time judging the market. This seems like a pretty niche vehicle so obviously the standard KBB values aren't much help.

The modifications done for wheelchair lifts are sometimes significant, depends on the up fitter shop. Some are easy to return to stock, some are impossible. I think you'd be farther ahead to start with a regular van. Looks like they cut the ENTIRE roof out and have probably installed a big steel subfloor. Potentially a "drop floor" which means they dropped the fuel tank down too.

I would pass, for that money you can get a van that hasn't been significantly modified

I'll have to take a close look at the floor, and passenger door area to try and figure out exactly how extensive the modifications are.
 
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Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
I would be concerned about the funky door extension on the top of the passenger door.

My vote is no. You can find something better.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
I'd peg it at about $7500 if it's a western rig with a dry rust free underside... the hightop (if its something you want) is a solid $2000 of the value..
Mine won't fit in my carport either so I bought the MaxxJaxx portable lift and just put a set of anchors outside for it.
 

RXtacy

New member
I would be concerned about the funky door extension on the top of the passenger door.
My vote is no. You can find something better.

It does concern me from a body rigidity stand point as well.

I'd peg it at about $7500 if it's a western rig with a dry rust free underside... the hightop (if its something you want) is a solid $2000 of the value..
Mine won't fit in my carport either so I bought the MaxxJaxx portable lift and just put a set of anchors outside for it.

It's located in MD (as am I) but at least from the pictures seems to be rust free. We'll see what it looks like in person.

The MaxJax can support 6k+ lbs?
 

Len.Barron

Observer
It's located in MD (as am I) but at least from the pictures seems to be rust free.

The MaxJax can support 6k+ lbs?
It's rated at 6k, I've lifted my 6800lbs hightop with it, but when I'm done with the duramax/SAS swap it would be too heavy (probably in the 8000lbs range when the interior is done) for it, I'd probably just lift one end or the other from that point on.

I'd pass on a local MD van like that, I'd shop for one that came from down south or out west..
 

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