Fold out solar panel

Photobug

Well-known member
I was camping out at a music festival this last weekend. I saw a number of fold out solar panel systems that made sense to me. Previously I was planning on putting a panel as part of my lumber rack but realize it would limit what I can put up and leave on my roof. My plan is to get an MPPT charge controller and add a second battery to my truck. Which two-panel, fold-out solar panels should I consider?
 

Photobug

Well-known member
I am considering building a portable box with an MPPT controller in it.

Because I will have a better charge controller than comes with a folding package: What about a 50 amp flexible panel? Our power needs are very minimal. I already own a 50 watt solid panel that came with my sailboat. Can I buy a 50 amp panel and combine the two? I have a crimper and MC-4 connectors on the way.
 

shade

Well-known member
I am considering building a portable box with an MPPT controller in it.

Because I will have a better charge controller than comes with a folding package: What about a 50 amp flexible panel? Our power needs are very minimal. I already own a 50 watt solid panel that came with my sailboat. Can I buy a 50 amp panel and combine the two? I have a crimper and MC-4 connectors on the way.
I'll let someone else answer your question about running two separate panels/charge controllers into one battery (is that what you have in mind?), but I think you meant "50 watt" panel, not "50 amp".
 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
I have the 70W version of this, and I really want to swap for the 120W but the 70W is great on its own. My Renogy 100Ah AMG battery holds charge long enough where I have not run out but I do lay the panel on my roof just to use it anyway. It folds up small enough to fit in my tongue box. Has a USB outlet right on the controller and the cable is way long enough to put out in the sun if I park in a shady spot (which I try to do when possible). I am running basic 12V equipment, no AC, no fridge, just lights, chargers, and a Max fan.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GF8YN9...olid=1GX525C7GL5BQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 

plh

Explorer
I am considering building a portable box with an MPPT controller in it.

Because I will have a better charge controller than comes with a folding package: What about a 50 amp flexible panel? Our power needs are very minimal. I already own a 50 watt solid panel that came with my sailboat. Can I buy a 50 amp panel and combine the two? I have a crimper and MC-4 connectors on the way.

Whoa - a 50 amp panel would be a large suitcase.

But not in jest, I use a small foldable to recharge a 24 Ah 5V Li-on bank (8 x 18650 cells) . Works great to recharge phones etc..

https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Charger-Waterproof-Foldable-Compatible/dp/B00TEQJEC6
 
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dreadlocks

Well-known member
I'd get the Renology w/out controller @ https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Foldable-Suitcase-Without-Controller/dp/B00LXG4AXS/

You dont want the controller on the back of the panel anyhow, it needs to be as close to the battery as possible and let the high voltage run be the longer.. I'd suggest checking out the Victron Smart Solar 75/15, it could run two of these if you need to upgrade later.. and gives you nice stats and program options, worth the money.

I personally just carry around a huge 325w house panel, but its 60v+ and I can stick it on the end of long runs w/out much loss.. Make sure you use good cable, I'd suggest something like this in 10 awg.. take a 100ft and cut it into 3 or 4 equal lengths and use fittings that can mate to eachother.. use only what you need for maximum outputs.
 

plh

Explorer
I personally just carry around a huge 325w house panel, but its 60v+ and I can stick it on the end of long runs w/out much loss..

I have a 255w 30.1V (optimum) panel that I'll be mounting to my pop-top roof soon. They are large. 65" x 39".
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Same size as my 325w, Yeah its definitely a two person move and most people dont have the storage room, but on the other hand.. its too big to walk off with..

If you get a lil Victron SmartSolar for your portable, and a bigger one for your fixed you can take advantage of a feature coming soon (still on beta fw) that syncs the controllers so they both go into identical charge states together.. ie, one wont be in float while the other in absorb.. and with two different controllers working like this you can scrape all the photons you can get your hands on.. even if the roof top is shaded and only putting out a few dozen watts.
 

shade

Well-known member
Same size as my 325w, Yeah its definitely a two person move and most people dont have the storage room, but on the other hand.. its too big to walk off with..

If you get a lil Victron SmartSolar for your portable, and a bigger one for your fixed you can take advantage of a feature coming soon (still on beta fw) that syncs the controllers so they both go into identical charge states together.. ie, one wont be in float while the other in absorb.. and with two different controllers working like this you can scrape all the photons you can get your hands on.. even if the roof top is shaded and only putting out a few dozen watts.
I've been considering scrapping my plans to use a CTEK system, and something like you described might work well. Do you have any links about the new feature?
 

Superduty

Adventurer
I'd get the Renology w/out controller @ https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Foldable-Suitcase-Without-Controller/dp/B00LXG4AXS/

You dont want the controller on the back of the panel anyhow, it needs to be as close to the battery as possible and let the high voltage run be the longer.. I'd suggest checking out the Victron Smart Solar 75/15, it could run two of these if you need to upgrade later.. and gives you nice stats and program options, worth the money.

I personally just carry around a huge 325w house panel, but its 60v+ and I can stick it on the end of long runs w/out much loss.. Make sure you use good cable, I'd suggest something like this in 10 awg.. take a 100ft and cut it into 3 or 4 equal lengths and use fittings that can mate to eachother.. use only what you need for maximum outputs.


I was looking at the reviews of the smart solar and one of the reviewiers suggests using the blue solar with BT dongle. I am going to paste his review. @dreadlocks what are your thoughts on what this guy says?



"I really expected to like the Victron Smart Solar. I already own the 100/15 Blue Solar plus bluetooth dongle, and have good results with it. However, after struggling with the Smart Solar I was disappointed and returned it. In my view it's a step backward from Blue Solar. If you're thinking of buying the 75/15 Smart Solar, you may want to reconsider and get the 75/15 Blue Solar and buy the external bluetooth dongle. There is really no benefit to the Smart Solar over the Blue Solar + BT dongle. You might save $10-$20, but you end up with an inferior product in many other respects.

First, the integrated bluetooth range is much less than the BT dongle. We're talking 5 feet vs. 20 to 30. This also gets to the heart of my main gripe: Victron's choice of Bluetooth transceiver. They're using newer BLuetooth Low Energy technology (BLE) vs older but more widely supported BT 4.0, as used in the external dongle. In my view it wasn't a good move. BLE, is not supported by the majority of BT enabled devices. If you want to use iOS or Android, be aware that even if they have BT, they will likely NOT work with the Smart Solar bluetooth! Obviously this isn't a good selling point and Victron sales literature doesn't warn customers about this ahead of time. You'll end up downloading their app and get frustrated trying to connect to the controller, and eventually learn that your 1 year old device won't work with it. Nearly every device in the world with BT will work with BT 4.0, but Victron went with the BT low energy and gave up compatibility with the majority of the world's devices. Was that a smart decision? Well they saved a few cents per controller, and I suppose low energy in theory saves some power. But, the charge controller is NOT lacking for power. It's either getting power from a PV array or a presumably large battery, not a tiny batteries where BLE might be useful. I would much rather have 20-30 foot range and use a few more micro watts of power than need to stand 5 feet from the controller. Incidentally at 5 feet away. And you'll find with Android, that BLE requires that you enable location/GPS for the Victron Connect app to work! No kidding. Victron says they don't care about your location, and probably don't. But you'll need to accept that and enable location services to use their app with Smart Solar. With Blue Solar and the external dongle it's not necessary. This is forced on everyone by Google/Android not Victron, but again, the choice of using BLE was Victron's.

Finally, IMO the 100/15 is better constructed than the 75/15, albeit at a higher price. The 100/75 has an external heat sink and the 75/15 does not. That could be a benefit in a hot environment like the desert. You may want to take a look at it. The next step up is 100/20 which also has an external heat sink like the 100/15. All of these have separate load terminals which is really useful because the controllers have a configurable low voltage disconnect (via the app) and can also track how much power the load is actually using. When you get over 20 amps, for example 100/30 amp controllers and up, they do not have separate 'load' terminals.

Update: I measured the current draw of a Blue Solar 100/15 and Smart Solar 100/20. Connected to battery at 12.8v. No PV or load connected, and not connected to app via BT.

Blue Solar 100/15: 24 mA. With BT dongle 25.5-26 mA
Smart Solar 100/20: 34 mA. With BT dongle 35-36.5 mA

I don't have numbers for the 75/15, though it's likely not more than above. The point is, the BT 4.x dongle takes only 1 to 1.5 mA. Unless you're using a 15 amp MPPT controller with a battery bank the size of a coin cell battery, the BT dongle is the way to go (IMO)."
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I relocated the PWM controller that came with my folding panel into the power box in the back of my Sub, because I didn't want it on the back of the panel cooking on my roof all the time.
I'm 'backfeeding' my under-hood Aux battery via the fat power cables I ran to the back of the vehicle. It's working great. I left the attachment hardware on the back of the panel kit, in case I ever need to loan it out. Then subsequently bought a new Renogy PWM controller to put in that power box and bumped the other one to a spare. I wired the terminals on the PWM with Y-connections so the input to the PWM comes from either the roof wiring or from a port on the back panel of the power box so the folding panel can be dismounted and set up away from the vehicle on a long lead wire.

solarpanelmount38.jpg
batterytrouble16 renogy.jpg



eta
here's where I describe relocating the PWM off the panel and into the vehicle
https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...lected-werks-topic-02-k1500-z71.172800/page-8
 
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shade

Well-known member
Staff Comments @ https://community.victronenergy.com...-the-documentation-warn-that-multiple-mp.html

I think its a problem generally with multiple smart-charging MPPT's because if there is something else raising battery voltage they wouldn't know about it and would think its fuller than it is.. having controllers coordinate would be really only way to avoid such issues.
Thanks. I'll take a look later. While I'm sure that syncing will solves some problems, I'd rather avoid the issue and eliminate the complexity caused by multiple charge controllers. When I'm ready to focus on the project, I'll start a thread to see what options will work best for me.

I already have a 100W panel I plan to use with a detachable mount, but I have a large area on my camper that could easily accommodate a panel in the 300W range. If I go that route, the CTEK controller I have won't work.
 
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dreadlocks

Well-known member
@Superduty thats a bunch of nonsense by someone with an antique phone wondering why old bluetooth works better than new bluetooth.. I've had no issues and great range, but I've got a Pixel2 and it can do all the new fancy BT4 stuff.. SmartSolar is preferred because it frees that VE.Direct port up for a standalone gauge if you want.

Victron's reviews are plagued by idiots who think they know everything.. 1 star because its a user error is mostly what I see.
 

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