HazVan - 2002 E-350 SuperDuty 7.3l PSD

[turbodiesel]

After ripping out the wood cabinet and building aluminum cabinets. I decided aluminum bed was in order. Goodbye bed prototype and in with aluminum. Still need to bolt it all together for a final time but it's cut and painted.

Still need additional carpet and cabinet doors. It's getting there.

While this was going on, prepped for fluid overhaul. Motor oil, transmission flush & oil, and coolant flush & refill. Replacing thermostat and various hoses for each.

 

[turbodiesel]

Small, minor change. Added a poptop!

 

[Stitebunny]

Quite a project! Looking good.
What was wrong with the top donor van? Sportsmobile?
And why such a high temporary support for the pop top?
Keep up the good work!

 

[turbodiesel]

Donor van mechanicals are trash. The engine runs but barely. Body is rusted out. Frame is super rusted. On and on. Plus it's only a 4.9l gasser. Mine is a 7.3l diesel.

Large structure meant it was easy to slide off and back on. It's heavy so picking it up isn't a one man operation.

 

[turbodiesel]

I'll be putting up the van for parts. If anyone is in the Los Angeles area let me know if you need sportsmobile interior parts. Swivel seat, curtains, etc

 

[turbodiesel]

Swapped out the transmission cooler for a trucool cooler. Fairly quick, took about two hours. I have the bypass as well but haven't installed it yet.

 

[turbodiesel]

Check in for the transmission cooler. It's made a substantial difference in temps going up the grapevine or Schwinn grade. Driving around town it's around 140, rises a bit freeway going 70 in temp 90+. Will get up to standard 170 going up grade in temps over 70. Haven't seen it over 190 since the install. While the cooler does have a built in bypass, I'll probably add the inline bypass for the winter as I suspect the trans will take forever to get up to temp without it.

Overall, I'd recommend as an easy upgrade if trans temps are a concern.

 

[turbodiesel]

Next up for the HazVan, MG Metal 4x4 conversion. Looked at all the various kits and even drove a couple but decided on MGs kit balancing cost and part availability. Liked the use of standard or easily obtained aftermarket parts, plus option of using a newer axle with lower mileage and bigger brakes. That's not to knock any of the other options out there, but personally this seemed the best for me to diy. Ideally a 2016 axle would have been best, but those with a 4.30 are significantly harder to find than a '13-15. Ended up with a set off of a 2014 F350SD (front 100K miles, rear 22K miles).

Currently waiting for the axles to arrive, meanwhile it's time to start buying parts from my spreadsheet. My garage will soon be a stock room...

 

[turbodiesel]

MG caster adjustment for the radius arms. First go was a mess, the other three cuts were more precise.

With a digital caliper I measured 10mm over in-line with the current opening. Then marked the hole with a white paint pen and attempted to cut it out with a jigsaw and Dremel to finish. The next three I made a smaller cut with the jigsaw, used a large tooth file to make it the correct size and then removed burs with a Dremel. This was more manual effort but a much better result.

Next up for the radius arms is prep and clean for welding the plates on.

 

[turbodiesel]

4x4 Conversion is beginning. I have the axles, although there was a slight hick-up on the front axle. The axle they sent was a '14 3.73 not a 4.30. Luckily they refunded me the full amount and let me keep the axle. The crappy part is now I'm delayed in starting the under van work. I had options of re-gear this or sell and find another. I decided to tackle re-gear the front axle as finding another 13-16' 4.30 axle with decent mileage is a challenge. I'm taking this as an opportunity to learn how to re-gear an axle. It'll be fun right?

 

[Raul]

You may want to consider adding a front locker or LSD since you are messing with the front axle.

The spread sheet you posted is great. I wish I had it when I was doing my van. I still may use it for a few item. Thanks.

I've seen on the sheet that you may add steering stabilizer. Try first without. I put dual stabilizes from Rough Country and I hated the numb feeling.

 

[turbodiesel]

You may want to consider adding a front locker or LSD since you are messing with the front axle.

This is a good point, any recommendations? I don't really want to introduce air lockers, so maybe an electric locker. LSD would likely be cheaper and just easier overall. I'm not planning to do any serious rock crawling, so a LSD would likely be fine for mud/snow. (Edit) Actually looks like LSD can be terrible upfront in snow. Seems either you want full lock or open.

The spread sheet you posted is great. I wish I had it when I was doing my van. I still may use it for a few item. Thanks.

Glad it's of some use. I figured I might be able to save someone some time. Putting together the purchase list with places to buy from is a bit of a PITA, but with ordering so many parts I had to do it so I could track what/when/how each item.

I've seen on the sheet that you may add steering stabilizer. Try first without. I put dual stabilizes from Rough Country and I hated the numb feeling.

Plan was to try without as I want to be sure I'm not hiding a problem. I already ordered the PMF bracket and have two of the fox shocks. Maybe I'll start with the single and see what that gets me.

 

[turbodiesel]

I had my thought going towards returning the Yukon 4.30 and getting a Elite gear 4.30 with a zip locker. It's on the front axle so I doubt if the gear sees more than 1K in it's lifetime, so I probably don't need Yukon quality there. Problem with that is, I don't see any kits with a 4.30 gearing.

Talked with Rons Machining Service where I bought the new gears from and for the van conversion with F350 axles they recommend either leaving it open or using a LSD like Dana 60 Powergrip Posi LSD 4.10-DN 35 Spline. Decisions decisions. After reading up on lockers I'm truly confused ? I'm leaning toward either open diff or locker. Read too many posts on LSD not being great on a front axle for daily driving.

*Edit* After talking through it with a buddy I think I'll throw in a Dana 60 Trac Lock Posi unit. Should be able to find one for $300-400 and for limited use it should be fine. They can wear out after 50K when they are on the rear but that shouldn't be an issue on the front.

 

[Raul]

I am in the fence on front lockers as well. I don't think I'll like to go with a lunchbox type. If I go locker I'll either go with a Torsen (worm gear as in the military H1 Hummers) or a mechanical full locker like the OX. All being said, so far with a rear OEM clutch LSD and open front I've done fine.

 

[turbodiesel]

I am in the fence on front lockers as well. I don't think I'll like to go with a lunchbox type. If I go locker I'll either go with a Torsen (worm gear as in the military H1 Hummers) or a mechanical full locker like the OX. All being said, so far with a rear OEM clutch LSD and open front I've done fine.

Hear you on Open Front and LSD Rear. That was the plan before having to re-gear. Lunchbox style is attractive as the price is cheap and it'll likely see only minimal mileage. The more I think about it, the less inclined I am to change it from an open diff.

• Open diff (Free)
  • Pro: Known Driving characteristics, Free
  • Con: One wheel looses traction, no drive
• LSD - Lunchbox ($)
  • Pro: Cheap, reliable for low mileage, simple to install
  • Con: LSD in the front can be harsh steering in corners, Lunchbox even more so
• LSD - True LSD ($$)
  • Pro: Traction, city driving ok
  • Con: Cost, in front axle can be harsh
• Selectable Locker ($$$)
  • Pro: Pros from the open diff, on off as needed, selectable on the fly
  • Con: Cost, install complexity