100mm CV Axle Questions

na3s

Active member
I’ve been researching replacement CV axles and have found several references to the fact that ‘94-’96 3.5 DOHC SRs, and possibly ‘97-’98 3.5 SOHC SRs, have stronger 100mm CV axles vs the more common 95mm Montero/Montero Sport CV axles and can be run with minimal modifications:

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...e-cv-joint-compatibility-1995-to-2000.192568/

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/montero-buyers-guide.157835/page-2

https://forum.adventuredrivendesign.com/index.php?topic=235.0



I’m a bit uncertain about what the 95mm vs 100mm measurement actually refers to on the CV axle. Can anyone confirm the picture below represents where that measurement is taken so that CV axles in the junkyard can be positively identified via something other than their year/engine/trim combination, in case they’ve been replaced at some point?

1.png

If the picture above is inaccurate, can someone provide a picture or drawing demonstrating where the measurement should be taken?



It seems that in order to be run on the passenger side, the 4 holes of the flange must be ovalized to fit the 4 mounting bolts. While I’m sure doing so is plenty strong, would it be possible to swap the cups w/flanges between 95mm and 100mm CV axles to avoid having to modify the 4 holes to make them fit, as these pics from ADD suggest?

2.png
3.png



I’ve also found that Milner, in the UK, offers upgraded polyurethane replacement CV boots. Since I’ll be rebuilding and rebooting any axles I pull out of a junkyard anyway, they seem like a good bit of insurance. Does anyone have any experience with them?

4.jpg
https://www.milneroffroad.com/mitsu...e-shaft-cv-boot-polyurethane-innerouter-front



For posterity’s sake, here’s a tidy tutorial outlining the removal, rebuilding/rebooting, and installation process for CV axles:

http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/inner_cv/



As always, thanks in advance, I appreciate any and all info and help.
 
Last edited:

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
100 is stamped into the inner and outer cups, also on OEM boots. NTN 100 is typically what it says, sometimes CV 100. The 94-98 Montero with 3.5 or any Gen 2 with manual trans could be holding some never been used CV's in the salvage yard.
 

na3s

Active member
I would choose an OEM quality rubber boot over that poly one you linked to.
Why do you think the butyl rubber in OEM or equivalent CV boots would be a better choice than poly, beyond the price differential?

The poly will be more resistant to deterioration from both heat and ozone, as well as likely more puncture/abrasion resistant.

I'm not claiming the OEM boots are sub par, a weak link, or anything like that, it just seems that butyl rubber may not be the optimal material for that application.

If going through the hassle of tracking down the most robust CV axles possible, 100mm, and fully rebuilding them, investing in the most durable boots possible would be a worthy investment, particulalry if they only cost +/- $25 more than the rubber versions, no?

Further, I've yet to find any reports of anyone running the poly boots on a Mitsubishi and I've a hunch they may warrant a chance, if only as an experiment.

If they turn out to be duds, it's not a huge loss, OEM equivalent butyl boots are common and cheap, and although a bit of a pain the ass, aren't too hard to swap out... The poly boots strike me as ripe for a try.
 
Last edited:

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
The OEM outers are really **************, they're like a hard plastic. On the inner rubber end, I've gotten some NOS factory rubber that was completely dry rotted recently.
 

na3s

Active member
I've just returned from the junkyard with a pair of beefy 100mm CV axles from a '94 SR, for only $40 to boot.

They'll need to be fully overhauled but I'm happy to have scored them and hoping they'll help avoid potential repairs/breaks farther down the road.

While pulling them I was struck by the idea of pulling the front stub axle from the SR front diff assembly as well, in order to avoid having to ovalize the 4 mounting holes on the passenger side CV.

Are there any reasons the stub axle from a '94 SR wouldn't work in the '03 MS CAD free front diff assembly I'll be running; they're both 8"/high pinion/28 spline?

If it will work, does anyone have any advice for removing the stub axle? I've an older mac so haven't been able to run/reference the ASA program to research the parts schematics.

In googling the subject I found reference to an internal snap ring holding it in place. Can it be accessed by simply removing the diff cover or will the diff need to be fully removed?

As always, thanks in advance for any and all help.
 
Last edited:

plh

Explorer
While pulling them I was struck by the idea of pulling the front stub axle from the SR front diff assembly as well, in order to avoid having to ovalize the 4 mounting holes on the passenger side CV.

Are there any reasons the stub axle from a '94 SR wouldn't work in the '03 MS CAD free front diff assembly I'll be running; they're both 9"/high pinion/28 spline?
CAD vs. no CAD, not going to work. the CAD jack shaft is probably 4" shorter to make room for the CAD.
 

na3s

Active member
Damn, thanks for the confirmation PLH, I was hoping for an elegant solution to avoid ovaling the mounts.
 
Last edited:

davidgreams

New member
Everyone is giving pretty good generic advice, but your car is a little special. There's this part called a wishbone that connects the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. It splits in two and goes around the CV axle. This needs to be removed, as the end of the CV will not fit through.

The problem is the bolts holding it in like to seize over the years. I'm not one to discourage people from fixing their own cars, but if you don't have much experience, I really wouldn't recommend tackling this one yourself, especially if it's your only way to get around.

It might be best to take it to a shop, and let them deal with the headaches.
 

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