12v edgestar fridge Cutoff, does power cord size matter?

nixid

Observer
I have a 12v Edgestar fridge. When I run it from my battery I use a cable with battery clips that end with a cigarette style receptacle. I plug in the oem 12v cable into that and the other end into fridge. I have the battery cutoff set to 10.0V. When the battery gets down to about 11.8V and the fridge engages the read out on the fridge "voltmeter" will drop steadily over 30 seconds unto; it gets below 10.0V and then cutoff. After which the read out will rebound to 11.8V. Independent Volt meter confirms battery at 11.8V.

Battery clips product description " Holds only 10Amps of Power" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065L2D8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would a bigger gauge wire stop the "perceived" drop?
 

Chris Boyd

Explorer
Those clips aren’t very efficient at move amperage. There is plenty of evidence on Expo threads that talk about needing good gauge wire between the fridge and battery.

For example, my Toyota Landcruiser has an OEM outlet in the back and I experienced similar issues with the factory fridge cable going to the 12v cig plug. The OEM wiring is 10A rated, but still I had issues.

Get some proper cable terminations for the battery side and run it hardwired to the battery with proper fusing (ie get ride of the cig plug). Also 11.8v is approaching low depending on the battery type. (I have my fridge cutoff set to 11.5). driving down to 10v will kill the battery permanently pretty quickly.
 

ajmaudio

Adventurer
What he said.... and def DO NOT take your battery down to 10v unless you and Jesus have an agreement on resurrecting batteries from the dead
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Neither the clips nor the ciggie plug are appropriate, lucky you haven't started a fire.

Properly crimped terminators, ideally ring style on a direct to batt buss bar, fused.

The voltage cutout is to protect their electronics, not your bank, get a LVD you can adjust for that.
 

jonyjoe101

Adventurer
I read comments that the wire gauge use is 16 gauge, I owned roadpro products and know they put the least copper in there wiring to barely do the job and no more. Everytime you take the battery below 12.1 volts its very bad, once you go into the 11 volt range you are killing the battery. Go below 11 volt 3 or 4 times and the battery will still charge up but its capacity will never be the same. Only true deep cycle (very heavy batteries) can handle that type of treatment.

The edgestar maxes out at 6 amps when the compressor kicks in, thats when you will get the voltage drop from those thin gauge wires. And since your battery is already at 11.8 volts, the fridge will have to take more amps to make up for the low voltage (resulting in bigger voltage drop). I had an edgestar fp430 and any time the voltage went below 12 volts I was getting the low voltage light blinking, no matter where I set the low cutoff. But even if the fridge stop working at night, everything stayed cold till morning, never lost food because of it.

batt  soc.jpg
 

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