1987 4Runner- Expedition Build Up.
- Thread starter LaOutbackTrail
- Start date
I need to quiz the minds of the collective 4runner gurus...
So, the truck is sitting on stock rear springs with 2" blocks, a long AAL (added last weekend), and a short AAL. Which is about 3.5-4" of lift in the rear.
Looks good, feels good. I like it............ but two problems.
The added lift has put a tremendous amount of tension on the emergency brake line... I cant adjust it at the adjuster (caked with undercoating).... what should I do?
Second, and more serious problem. There is a new and decent amount of vibration coming from the driveline (similar to bad U-joints---- but mine are new and checked to be OK). I contribute the vibration to the lift and the necessity for shims.
Of course, I did not do any measurements and have NO idea what size shim to get?!?
So, the truck is sitting on stock rear springs with 2" blocks, a long AAL (added last weekend), and a short AAL. Which is about 3.5-4" of lift in the rear.
Looks good, feels good. I like it............ but two problems.
The added lift has put a tremendous amount of tension on the emergency brake line... I cant adjust it at the adjuster (caked with undercoating).... what should I do?
Second, and more serious problem. There is a new and decent amount of vibration coming from the driveline (similar to bad U-joints---- but mine are new and checked to be OK). I contribute the vibration to the lift and the necessity for shims.
Of course, I did not do any measurements and have NO idea what size shim to get?!?
corax
Explorer
upgrade your ebrake to a AllPro's transfer case e-brake?
Is the vibration there all the time or only when on the gas? I agree that the vibration is probably due to driveline (u-joint) angles, but I can't help much with what degree shim you need - no experience on my own vehicles. Though you could reduce the pinion angle by using extended length shackles instead of the lift blocks. Here's a good article on leaf spring shackles and how different lengths affect everything
Is the vibration there all the time or only when on the gas? I agree that the vibration is probably due to driveline (u-joint) angles, but I can't help much with what degree shim you need - no experience on my own vehicles. Though you could reduce the pinion angle by using extended length shackles instead of the lift blocks. Here's a good article on leaf spring shackles and how different lengths affect everything
Depending on my job situation, there wont be much money going into the 4runner this winter.... Focus will be swapped over to the cruiser. But I do need to get a few issues worked out on it though. I like the idea of the TCase brake.
The vibration is primarily felt at hwy speeds, and when no power is being sent to the axle, ie. taking foot off gas and decelerating.
But, it is felt while just driving.
The vibration is primarily felt at hwy speeds, and when no power is being sent to the axle, ie. taking foot off gas and decelerating.
But, it is felt while just driving.
upgrade your ebrake to a AllPro's transfer case e-brake?
Is the vibration there all the time or only when on the gas? I agree that the vibration is probably due to driveline (u-joint) angles, but I can't help much with what degree shim you need - no experience on my own vehicles.
4Crawler has the shims available... but doesnt offer much help on decision.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml
RU55ELL
Explorer
I would imagine that the 3 degree shims would be fine. Those 8s look like way too much for correcting after AALs.
EDIT: As for the cables, I had the same problem when I put the chevys on my 86. I ended up extending the brackets and lengthening the cable with a small piece of cable and ferrules.
EDIT: As for the cables, I had the same problem when I put the chevys on my 86. I ended up extending the brackets and lengthening the cable with a small piece of cable and ferrules.
corax
Explorer
When you're on the gas the pinion rotates up a slight bit, reducing the pinion angle. When you're coasting (decel) the the driveline and rear tires are trying to slow you down a bit and the pinion rotates downward, increasing pinion angle and giving you a vibration.
I wonder if a traction bar would prevent that a bit - it would also help with the wheel hop you might get with those lift blocks. This pic would be under acceleration. The lift blocks act as a lever, increasing the "twisting" force on the spring when you give it gas. By the same token under decel the lift block help twist the spring the other way, increasing pinion angle.
I wonder if a traction bar would prevent that a bit - it would also help with the wheel hop you might get with those lift blocks. This pic would be under acceleration. The lift blocks act as a lever, increasing the "twisting" force on the spring when you give it gas. By the same token under decel the lift block help twist the spring the other way, increasing pinion angle.
Let there be light, homies.
Headlights only.
Time to upgrade the alternator.......... or fry a few batteries...
2 Hella Rallye 2000 on the roofrack and 2 Hella 500s on the bumper. The bumper lights are just about worthless though... they are not aiming at anything useful.... Need to figure something out.
Any idea of what year range for the MR2 alternator?
RU55ELL
Explorer
Since he said turbo MR2, you are looking at 90-95 year models.
Ouch. over $200
bendersfab
Supporting Sponsor
Start with the rear. If you are thinking ratchet type lockers, keep it in the rear axle. As for the front axle, save up a few more dollars and purchase a selectable locker for the front. I personally have blown a Lock Right during a snow run only 6 months after install due to 3 of the springs breaking through the metal housing/keeper.
corax
Explorer
you could also convert to a GM single wire alternator - Trail Gear make a $39 adapter bracket (2nd product down)