1994 International 4700 Conversion Begins

scooter421

Adventurer
As I await more parts. I'm working on clearing space for the rear light bar to match the front. The wire harness for the emergency light bar was easy enough to gain access and disconnect at the rear. The 2 middle bolts were also right here on each side of the hole for the electrical. The remaining outer 2 bolts holding it on were accessible but hiding. The driver side was not too bad for skinny arms through the light hole. On the passenger side, I had to remove a LOT of screws and silicone surrounding the panel. After some persuasion and pushing from the light hole. I managed to push the panel inward enough to gain access to the remaining bolt. Now comes clean up, plugging 4 holes and wire chasing for the appropriate switch location. If it does not prove to be entirely difficult, I'll hook it up to the reverse circuit as well as add a dedicated switch.
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scooter421

Adventurer
Test fitted and operational. I opted to put it on a switch in the cab rather than tie it directly into the reverse circuit. I had to move some wires around to make the circuit work the way I wanted. Sometimes you want light and some times you don't! I figured a switch was the best of both worlds. I gotta plug the holes, put the interior back together and it's one more thing off the list!
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scooter421

Adventurer
Bouncing around the various projects on the truck, I managed to fit some pieces together for a water tank drain point/dog watering point. The little stainless valve is a decanting valve for various cooking or brewing purposes. I had to fashion a bracket for mounting and I was able to get it tucked away fairly well. If I manage to rip this off, I'll have bigger problems! The backside of the valve is not intended to have anything attached to it due to straight threads. I found a 3/8 barbed NPT fitting that screws on part way but whether it's leak free, time will tell. One way or another I will get it to work. I'm trying the easy route first.

The interior is torn apart for electrical access as I am also working on installing additional solar panels on the roof. I spoke with OZ about the no bolt kits for solar panels. I'm going to give them a try and see how they work. I may put some additional tether points in though. Something about an adhesive and 60mph is just not a comfortable feeling. I sure do like the idea of no bolts though. Prep work and following the instructions is going to be of paramount importance.

There are silicon or some sort of gasket material that comes with the valve to seal on each side for vessel use.

Scooter...
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patoz

Expedition Leader
Scooter, the light bar looks great, but why do you need so much light on the rear of the vehicle?

I like that faucet poking out from under the body. That must be your emergency beer supply! ?

Also, looking at that cluster of wire nuts and wire, it looks like you are just capping off the ends of wires that no longer go anywhere, right? Otherwise, I will say this which you may already know. You should never, use wire nuts on vehicle, boat, or aircraft wiring. They are designed for structural wiring only and can vibrate off of the wire ends, causing a loose connection or a short circuit and fire. Instead, use a good quality butt splice with heat shrink tubing over it, preferably the tubing with adhesive in it.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
Scooter, the light bar looks great, but why do you need so much light on the rear of the vehicle?

I like that faucet poking out from under the body. That must be your emergency beer supply!

Also, looking at that cluster of wire nuts and wire, it looks like you are just capping off the ends of wires that no longer go anywhere, right? Otherwise, I will say this which you may already know. You should never, use wire nuts on vehicle, boat, or aircraft wiring. They are designed for structural wiring only and can vibrate off of the wire ends, causing a loose connection or a short circuit and fire. Instead, use a good quality butt splice with heat shrink tubing over it, preferably the tubing with adhesive in it.
Thanks, the light bar was simply because it would fit and backing up in the dark in the woods can be hazardous. It's mostly because it would fit though.

A truly functional spirit tap is not out of the question! It's been rattling around in my mind for some time.

I needed to put a tank drain somewhere. I figured I might as well make it dual purpose.

The wiring, lol...

That is the way I got the truck. They were not kind when removing the emergency controls and wiring. That's why I reference the "white rabbit" on occasion. I have spent many hours chasing wires which should be there only to find those that don't belong or are no longer there. If I did not have the small bit of information on the wiring as I do, I'd be in trouble.

Scooter...

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scooter421

Adventurer
After grinding for the adhesive application, I've got the wiring cut to connect the panels, built a jig and made 48 holes in the mounts, ran and cut water lines, found some hole plugs for the old light bar holes; of which, I will need to paint or they will rot away in the AZ sun, started cleaning up the electrical and plumbing for the pump and heater, more plumbing connections arrived for the tank, now I am back on the roof to lay out the final fitted position of the solar panels. If all goes well, I may be generating power by the end of the week.

This should be pretty much the end result, everything will be glued down of course. This was layout and test fit prior to grinding.

I'm gluing the brackets down and screwing the brackets to the panels for accessibility.

Scooter...
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patoz

Expedition Leader
That is the same arraignment I would like to use on mine, but I'm going to try to get four 300W panels on there. Where did you find those mounts, or who makes them?
 
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scooter421

Adventurer
OZ pointed them out to me....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWASUU1?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

They have a variety of kits available, with or without center supports and the cable entry gland.

Scooter...

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Thanks,

I found these also. It's the same thing, but in white.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQF8BL...Qk&pd_rd_r=DA5TK85CG4W0FT22T27K&pd_rd_w=nkpb9
Sure thing,

I almost got the white ones but I'm painting mine white to keep the UV off the plastic. I figured being black I'd be less likely to miss a spot. It's overkill I suppose but they will get ignored up there. The more I can keep the plastic protected in AZ the better. The sun sure does a serious number on plastic out here.

Scooter...

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patoz

Expedition Leader
That's a good idea, and we have the same problem here in Florida. If the sun doesn't get it, the humidity, or the salt air and water will.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
That's a good idea, and we have the same problem here in Florida. If the sun doesn't get it, the humidity, or the salt air and water will.
Oh yeah, I would imagine Florida is pretty bad as well. It's amazing how quick a plastic bucket falls apart. I've had to move to galvanized buckets for my yard work out here. I don't want my roof mounts doing the same!

Scooter...

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scooter421

Adventurer
My panels are now glued down. I'm going to let the panels/brackets sit for the night and tomorrow morning remove the remaining screws to remove the panels, paint the brackets, connect the wires and put it all back together. I should be generating power before noon....hopefully.

I read a couple people said the Sikaflex 252 was hard to get out of the manual caulk gun. They were right! I did the first 2 and almost went and bought an electric caulk gun. I modified my caulk gun for a bit more leverage instead! It made a huge difference.

Scooter...
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scooter421

Adventurer
I was able to glue all 24 brackets down with 2 tubes of the 252 with just enough left over to go around the outer edges as well. I was squeezing the last bit of caulk out at the end.

Scooter.

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