1999 2wd E-350 - best rear axle add-on for off road traction

6

68camaro

Any River...Any Place
Pulling trigger on E-350 Chinook Monday afternoon, deposit paid. Chinooks are 2WD 10,000, DRW beasts.

Being in VA I won't really use 4x4 much so don't want to spend the $25k - $30k for a true 4x4 conversion. So as an option I am thinking of adding the following for those times on mud, light snow, forest roads etc....I have traction aides plus have taken 4x4 courses so comfortable I will stay in my comfort zone to get in and out.

* Aluminess bumber with winch
* 4 - 6" lift - really need here, Chinooks have low long rear overhang, no idea on cost!
* rear traction aide, options I believe are:
- Locker
- Limitied Slip Diff
- Driver Selectable Limited Diff

For the tractions aides which is best option? Off-road won't really be much so we do get slippery surfaces and Chinooks are low so really need lift.

As far as costs, Aluminess with winch installed should be less that $3,000, but no idea on cost of proper lift (not just bumpers) and rear traction aide option costs. Can you give me idea of costs including install with your recommendations?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
 
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Mwilliamshs

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
Should be a Dana 70 axle.

There are 2 selectable differentials available I know of: ARB and Eaton E-locker. They both are either an open differential (no added traction, free to spin just one side) or a spool (maximum added traction, both sides positively locked together). The difference is in how they're actuated: air or electricity. The ARB requires an air compressor or renewable pressurized air source and hoses to connect that to the axle. This is easy if you already have on-board air or is a good excuse to get it. The Eaton requires wire run from the cabin to the differential but no air. They both have weaknesses: the ARB could leak, the EATON could fail magnetically, or either one could get its connected wires/hoses damaged. When either an ARB or an E-locker is off, it's as though it isn't there at all. When it's on, both axleshafts are totally locked together.

The main non-selectable differential (there may be others, IDK) is the Detroit Locker. It's locked all the time but it can ratchet around corners. It makes noise when it does this and can be felt when it re-engages. Both the sound and the sensation would likely be mitigated to nil by the length and weight of a Class C. The Detroit requires no air, no wiring, nothing.

ARB: most expensive, especially if you must pay for the locker, its installation, and an air system all at once.

E-locker: second most expensive. Cheaper to buy, easier to install (so might be cheaper, depends on the installer), no air system required.

Detroit: cheapest all around.

There are also limited-slip differentials. They imitate an open differential most of the time and imitate a locker when one side slips. They are less positively locked when needed. They are less noticeable than the Detroit. I frankly wouldn't bother with a limited-slip in a rig this size. If you ever need a limited-slip, you'd rather have a locker.

Given the cost and size of a motorhome and especially its turning-radius, my personal choice would be a selectable locker. A locker can make sharp turns difficult but a selectable locker can be turned off to eliminate this drawback.

P.S. it's Aluminess*
 
Last edited:
6

68camaro

Any River...Any Place
Mwilliamshs said:
Should be a Dana 70 axle.

There are 2 selectable differentials available I know of: ARB and Eaton E-locker. They both are either an open differential (no added traction, free to spin just one side) or a spool (maximum added traction, both sides positively locked together). The difference is in how they're actuated: air or electricity. The ARB requires an air compressor or renewable pressurized air source and hoses to connect that to the axle. This is easy if you already have on-board air or is a good excuse to get it. The Eaton requires wire run from the cabin to the differential but no air. They both have weaknesses: the ARB could leak, the EATON could fail magnetically, or either one could get its connected wires/hoses damaged. When either an ARB or an E-locker is off, it's as though it isn't there at all. When it's on, both axleshafts are totally locked together.

ARB: most expensive, especially if you must pay for the locker, its installation, and an air system all at once.

E-locker: second most expensive. Cheaper to buy, easier to install (so might be cheaper, depends on the installer), no air system required.

There are also limited-slip differentials. They imitate an open differential most of the time and imitate a locker when one side slips. They are less positively locked when needed. They are less noticeable than the Detroit. I frankly wouldn't bother with a limited-slip in a rig this size. If you ever need a limited-slip, you'd rather have a locker.

P.S. it's Aluminess* -
Click to expand...

Thank you, looks like E-locker could be could compromise, I do like selectability with turning hubs. Also Auminess corrected:)

eporter said:
Check out the axle code in your door, you may already have a Dana 70 HD with limited slip.

My 2000 Chinook has the E2 code.

http://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-...y-your-ford-truck-axle-from-the-door-sticker/
Click to expand...

Monday I will check out code.....how does your Chinook handle in sliperry stuff - mud, snow, wet forest roads, esp. uphill? Aside from Limited Slip do you have any other mods to Chinook? Do you have lift, if so what height? How does your handle off-road very mild stuff.

Also, do you have stock anti-sway bar in rear?
 
E

eporter

Adventurer
I’ve only had the chinook for a couple months. It’s gutted inside, so it’s a project that I haven’t quite had the time for yet. Check out the chinook RV forum. There’s a guy there who took his chinook on a winter ski area tour. Lots of snow and it did fine with the tires he had.
 
6

68camaro

Any River...Any Place
eporter said:
68camaro, I didn’t realize you were on the chinook forum, too!

There’s a guy on there (dougm) who installed the weldtech but had issues. He even drove x-country to their shop to try to get it fixed. Not sure how it all worked out.

http://www.chinookrvforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=867
Click to expand...

Thanks for Link, i was looking at Weldtec but after this doubt I wil go that route. Condersing Action Van 4" with taller tires to get close to 5" but not sure what actual raise will be once full vehicle weight resting on suspension.
 
Buliwyf

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
My e350 was terrible off road. An e-locker in the rear will also require extra meaty tires. Tire chains are handy on top of that. I don't think the diff will help much on it's own. My e had no problem spinning both rears, and I still spent hours rocking the truck out of spots it wasn't even sidewall deep.
 
djbonsu

djbonsu

Adventurer
If your locker does not have to be a selectable unit, consider the Detroit Tru-Trac. It performs like a limited slip but you dont have the regular maintenance of clutches as this unit is completely mechanical. I have one and love it.
 
Deshet

Deshet

Adventurer
A lot of shops in Virginia do lifts, you can also get any brand that you want or a custom lift. I am pretty sure that you already have a limited slip rear diff. It sounds like you are going to have the work done so it may be better to go with a local shop for support and service.
Your estimates for a 4x4 conversion are about double the prices I got when I called around years ago. The year of your truck plays a big part in the price and miles. (transmission rebuild or not)

Ujoint Offroad is in North Carolina they can do it all. There is a shop in Richmond that converts Vans to 4x4 also but I can't remember the name.

Anything with the name Aluminess is going to cost alot. I haven't ever owned any of there stuff but it looks great. Don't be afraid of steel bumper they are much stronger.

Thanks
 
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Mwilliamshs

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
Buliwyf said:
...An e-locker in the rear will also require extra meaty tires...
Click to expand...

How does a locking differential require meatier tires than an open differential?

Buliwyf said:
...My e had no problem spinning both rears, and I still spent hours rocking the truck out of spots it wasn't even sidewall deep.
Click to expand...

You needed a larger contact patch to reduce spinning or more aggressive tread to make the spinning worthwhile.

These are heavy vehicles. Takes a lot of flotation to balance all the ground pressure.
 
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