1st Gen Hilux 3RZ build thread - Stoffregen Motorsports

wow i just read all 44 pages strait through, you do some great work, on the paint job i would go old school paint like the tri color white, orange, and red.

Same^. Simply awesome stuff here. Not really much to even say about it. Sort of at a loss for words at this point haha. Keep it coming!!!

It may be a while. I've got plenty of paying jobs to complete before this one is back on the block. I am hoping (at this point) to have the suspension and axle installed by November.

I am really torn on paint. I have come up with a new idea that some may seem unorthodox, but if I pull it off, could really lend itself to the overall nature of this build, race car, modern yet classic, heavy duty yet light weight.

Thanks again guys.
 

Simons

Adventurer
Brain will cut me a custom set of inner axles and I will use new RCV birfields at the ends.
Very custom, no expense spared. From what I've read those RCV's should give you an extra 10deg or so of steering angle over stock birfs
 

WillBeck

Adventurer
Just have to say I've been watching this build for a very long time. Can't wait to see it come together. 3RZ is a great motor, and even stock it sounds good.

Excellent job packaging that exhaust. The inlet/outlet on the same end is a perfect solution.
 
Just have to say I've been watching this build for a very long time. Can't wait to see it come together. 3RZ is a great motor, and even stock it sounds good.

Excellent job packaging that exhaust. The inlet/outlet on the same end is a perfect solution.

Thanks.

I don't like shortening up an exhaust too much nor do I like putting the muffler too far forward. These 4 cylinder motors tend to like a full length exhaust with the muffler as far back as possible. So the in/out on the same end was the perfect choice to be able to get the exhaust out the side. I also stepped the exhaust twice so the pipe is actually 3 different diameters, in an attempt to build torque.

I had to have a side exit. No reason, just desire.
 

Grouper

Observer
I have got to stop looking at this build. It makes me want to spend money I don't have on a vehicle that I don't need. Like I said....artwork.
 
I have got to stop looking at this build. It makes me want to spend money I don't have on a vehicle that I don't need. Like I said....artwork.

Funny, I was just checking out your storage solutions. Your build really has me thinking.

I've always been a vintage iron guy but most of my customers bring me modern stuff. I get to play with their modern toys while I think about how to combine the two worlds. I think about it a lot. Some of you guys here on ExPo really get creative with your storage solutions, lighting, tablet/smart phone mounts, recovery gear, etc.

This '83 has two truck boxes permanently mounted in the bed that take up quite a lot of room, but they need to be there. The decision to use them was made based on the location of the battery and ARB compressor. They both had to be in the bed (or at least somewhere other than the engine bay) and I didn't want them exposed to the elements or easy to steal, hence the boxes. I have some ideas of how to make the boxes more usable, but for now, they are just empty shells.

I do want to use full extension drawer slides to have a thin drawer on each side to carry tools, spare parts, etc. I also want to have a smart high lift and shovel mount, smart meaning that they are secure but easy to access and remove from the truck (I have played around with mounting them on customer's rigs and I think I have it down). The driver side box needs to have quick access to the battery in case of emergency. I bought a pair of battery cable quick disconnects to make a custom pair of jumper cables that connect through the panel. I think that will be right on top of the box. I also want to put an inverter and power station panel in the driver's side box, at the rear near the tailgate for easy access.

The spare tire has posed a problem, but I think the best mounting solution is as pictured; upright, behind the driver in the front of the bed. Any other location does not make sense.

Inside the bed, a pair of full length aircraft seat tracks will be mounted for unlimited cargo configurations.

So back to the vintage iron thing. I have two personal projects in queue: a '57 Chevy 4x4 stepside and a '53 Ford F500. Can you picture the Chevy fully outfitted for expeditioning in a modern fashion. How about the F500 with a Earth Roamer style camper on the back and a turbo diesel under the hood? I know, I'm crazy right?
 
I started poking around last night trying to get ideas for the '53 F500. Man, I could spend a ton on that project. I'm torn between a heavy duty truck chassis GM, Dodge 5500 or Ford F550) or a full blown mini rig chassis (F650). I think I definitely want a Cummins in it though.

And then the camper portion could be vintage or modern looking. I could use an old freight truck box with rounded corners or even an old travel trailer and modify either one to be used a camper.

Surprisingly, my wife thinks it's a neat idea.
 

Simons

Adventurer
Would outer CV boots fit the bill? Roll up a few flanged rings so you can mount them easily to your tunnel cover. Maybe use two smaller ATV sized boots for the tcase shifters and a normal automotive sized one for the transmission?
 
I really like the Lokar boot and ring sets. They come with black anodized billet aluminum rings. http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/shifter-hb-boots/shifter-hb-product-pgs/shifter-boots.html

The problem is they won't fit the OEM Toyota shifters, but I already have a plan for that. I could use Lokar T5 shifter sticks but I don't want to spend $400 for boots and shifters.

So for now, the plan is to cut the Toyota shifters at the base, weld on some chrome Datsun shifter sticks and use Lokar boots. The Datsun sticks are slim and tapered with one bend in them. I thought about making some out of 1/2" round stock, I've done this before, but that won't look right for this truck.
 
Would outer CV boots fit the bill? Roll up a few flanged rings so you can mount them easily to your tunnel cover. Maybe use two smaller ATV sized boots for the tcase shifters and a normal automotive sized one for the transmission?

OEM shifters have two boots, one underneath to keep out the muck and stink. I could use CV boots under the finished interior boot.
 

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