2 AWG on wiring.

One more help on this guys,

The panels are 160 watts ~ 8Amps each. What Amperage circuit breaker should I use on the alternator cable and on the controller to battery
cable?

SP_ALT_Wiring.jpg
 

john61ct

Adventurer
X = max current YOU NOW THINK the wire will ever see

A = gauge wire you choose, likely based not on X but to lower voltage drop / power losses

Y = max current A can stand from a safety POV (much higher than X)

If you size your CP (15-20% lower) according to X, you will save a few dollars

better to use Y, because in future if you start running higher current through the wire you will need to replace the CP.

Buy once, cry once.
 

Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
That's a good 'junk on the bunk' display. Morakniv too! Those are SB50s, correct?

/'course I would have had the Jesus candle* facing the camera, just to make some ExPo members hiss in disapproval.

2awg, good stuff. That's the kind of increased capacity / 'future-proofing' option I like.

Just about to start messing again with my own heavy cable / anderson stuff, next week.


*I'm using an inexpensive Harbor Freight heat gun instead of a candle lately, works real nice on the Low setting about 6-8" away.
.

Actually working on my galley table hooked to the trailer fender. Makes a sweet smooth outdoor work surface about 8' long. I use it for all sorts of projects when backcountry. Makes a great desk area too, when working on images.

Yep, SB50s, and yep, that's one of my Morakniv collection; the Bushcraft Carbon Steel with ferro-rod. I have the Garberg, Kansbol, a couple Companions, Craftline Trade and their Clipper, too. Most are far less costly than the Bushcraft and serve me just as well, though I like the handle on this one for general camp chores and overnights with my canoe. I nerd out a bit on getting ******** just to test and compare and write about.

Heh...the 'jesus' candle is plain all the way around; no spiritual decals. They make great candles under my awning from dusk 'til bedtime and last forever, so there's almost always one around and lit. Easy enough to use for the heat shrink. No sense using the inverter for the heat gun. Then a lighter gets used out on the ground.

The two spools are high strand count tinned copper core 10AWG, silicon rubber, super flexible, from BNTECHGO. Terrific stuff for solar cable extensions. 2AWG would be overkill for solar cable, as mentioned above, not to mention make a hell of a coil. See last image in insta scroll above for what a 50' coil of 10AWG looks like. I made a 25' extension first to see if I liked the wire, then got two more spools and made up two additional 50' lengths to extend my panels further out when needed. I can go out about 150' now. Fused before going into the trailer and again at the charge controller, though I'm going to add a fuse at the end of each extension, as well.

.
 
Last edited:

rayra

Expedition Leader
There's some sort of decal in there, I can see it peeking around the edges ;)

Got busy this evening on part of my winch cabling setup, and modified some new 4awg cables with the proper bushings to integrate with SB175 terminal lugs

winch140 jumper cables.jpg
winch145 jumper cables.jpg
winch146 jumper cables.jpg
winch147 jumper cables.jpg


Going to try and get my front and rear bumper plugs wired up this weekend before the rains come back.
 

Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
There's some sort of decal in there, I can see it peeking around the edges
.
Nope, that's actually just the way the glass is shaped, seriously. I intentionally avoid any candle with spiritual crap.
.
 

86scotty

Cynic
This is the one I am already using from the two batteries to the fuse box (one on each positive before connecting them in parallel). My plan was to use a third one on the wire coming from the alternator/isolator to the house batteries.
View attachment 576811

Why you say to use one at each end of the run? Its less then 3 meter (9 feet) of length.

This appears to be one of the knock off cheaper breakers from eBay/Amazon. I realize it may just be an image you found and used but I would caution people to use good breakers. I have had a few of these fail, never at a convenient place or time. I have had really good luck with the Stinger brand and otherwise prefer Buss, Blue Sea or other reputable brands.

They are expensive but also should be a one and done purchase. I've even pulled good ones from projects I've sold or abandoned to use on other projects because they are expensive. Same goes for wiring and terminals. The cheapest ones available out there are just that, total junk.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
10AGW is the minimum. 2AGW is more expensive but if you have it there is no engineering reason to not use it.
There should be a reference as to how far you can run the 10AGW before going up is wire size.
The longer the run, the bigger the wire.
 

86scotty

Cynic
ahh true,

13' of #10, 0.5#
13' of #2, . 3.0#

And it's been mentioned before above but you'd have to fabricate a really ugly and complex step up/step down from the panels to controller and then out of controller. The industry standard on automotive solar is 10awg for a reason and everything out there is pretty standardized. I'd go with simple. I've had lots of panel setups and in no world did I ever need or get more than 30a flowing through system, which is what 10awg will handle.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,540
Messages
2,875,670
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top