2001 Suburban K2500 - Summer Camping & Winter Commuting

[snowblind]

I wouldn't drill any holes, as that would defeat the purpose of the shroud at low speeds... You can try what GM does with the C7 Vette - have hinged flap doors on the shroud so they open up at highway speeds, but stay closed (like reed valves) when the fans are on at lower speeds.

Just curious, did you ever think about using OEM fans off a post 2006 GM half ton? Their shape is very close to your rad, and I bet you can score them for $100 at the junker. Just food for though if you ever need to replace your fans.

I enjoy seeing e-fans. I have two sets of OEM Altima fans, mounted on a 7.3 Power Stroke rad, cooling by 27,000 lbs Detroit Diesel bus!

Hey Roy.

Thanks for the feedback. I had heard about the whole "one-way flap" thing but forgot about it. Probably more important in a Vette doing triple-digits though

I contemplated using junkyard fans but I was worried that they wouldn't flow enough air and/or be a pain to wire and control. But I also expected less custom work than I went into the Dmax kit in the end.


Matt

 

[snowblind]

Bunch of updates

Been busy on the Suburban this last few weeks.

Project List:
Installed Cognito pitman/idler supports.
Installed Idler Frame Support.
Replaced tie-rods with Kryptonite tie-rods.
Re-installed swaybar end links that were previously installed upside down.
Flushed Power Steering and Hydroboost fluid with BG synthetic fluid.
Modified inner rear of front fenders to increase tire clearance.
Lowered front end 1/2".
Replaced rear pass door armrest.
Replaced broken trim at rear hatch and rear driver's door.

I'll post up photos tonight with all the gory details.



Matt

 

[snowblind]

Door Checks

The door hinges on many 2000-2002 (maybe later also) GMT800 trucks are creaky, noisy, nightmares. The rear doors on Tahoes and Suburbans are particularly bad. It looks like you should be able to grease the problem parts but it never lasts. It is a design failure not a maintenance item. BUT... it turns out that GM fixed the problems in later years and retrofitting is easy.

The actual problem part for the rear doors is the GM 19209020 Door Check Link, Front doors are GM 15173407. The old ones are heavy and metal. The new ones are light and plastic. Installation requires removing the inner door panel. My rear doors went from being nearly too stiff to open to smooth as butter.

Comparison of the old metal part and the new units.



Matt

 

[snowblind]

Idler Brace

I added an Idler Support Brace from dmaxstore.com.

The brace provides triangular support between the frame and the idler. The factory mount for the idler is very thin and this brace should add considerable stiffness.



The brace is designed for a 2500 truck but they must have a different support piece on the front of the frames than the 2500 SUV because it would not fit without modification. I had to cut off a slice of the left side to make it work.



After bolting it up it we welded it to the frame along the left edge, bottom edge and inside the three holes.





Matt

 

[noJeepshere]

Hopefully that helps the steering, GM didn't do too well in making the ifs steering robust and long lasting, and they need all the help they can get.

cent frum a smaert fone

 

[goomashoom]

I just read this entire thread and thoroughly enjoyed the pictures and narrative. I learned a lot! I have just purchased Rovertrader's '03 2500 Suburban and it will arrive sometime in the next few weeks from North Carolina (I live in California). I am very interested in the electric fan upgrade you've done, but I do not have the mechanical skills that you possess. I hope I can find a plug-and-play alternative, or else I'll have to ask my mechanic to do it for me. Your story is an inspiration as I take ownership of my new Suburban and start planning off-the-beaten-path adventures with my family! I look forward to reading more of your posts on this thread! Thank you for your time and effort to share your experiences with others.

 

[Pathwacker]

2004 6.0 3.73 K2500 Suburban
Here is my family hauling, hunting rig, HD home depot runner, and dedicated tow vehicle. Center buckets, leather, sunroof, and rear seats removed.

 

[snowblind]

Trailer in tow...

M101-A3 on the road!

Currently connected on an 15" extender Loc n' Roll hitch. This results in a 130" from hitch to center of trailer axle. The Suburban wheelbase measures the same 130" This looks like a HUGE amount of space right now but I will be filling it with a tongue box so it might work out. If not I can switch to a shorter coupler... especially for tighter trails.



Trailer tires are 315/70/17. Truck tires are 285/70/17. With matching tires I think the whole thing would sit close to level.


Matt

 

[snowblind]

I just read this entire thread and thoroughly enjoyed the pictures and narrative. I learned a lot! I have just purchased Rovertrader's '03 2500 Suburban and it will arrive sometime in the next few weeks from North Carolina (I live in California). I am very interested in the electric fan upgrade you've done, but I do not have the mechanical skills that you possess. I hope I can find a plug-and-play alternative, or else I'll have to ask my mechanic to do it for me. Your story is an inspiration as I take ownership of my new Suburban and start planning off-the-beaten-path adventures with my family! I look forward to reading more of your posts on this thread! Thank you for your time and effort to share your experiences with others.

Thanks goomashoom. I'm happy you can get some use out of it.


Matt

 

[noJeepshere]

For your trailer you'll want to have the tongue just long enough to clear a 90° turn (trailer jackknifed) for maneuverability. With a tongue box you're pretty close as is.

cent frum a smaert fone

 

[snowblind]

Fender clearance...

The GM trucks have a spot inside the fender that can rub the tire at full lock. I wanted to lower my truck a little and not rub so out came the hammers!

Here is the inner fender.



I pulled the front metal down, cut horizontal slices with the die-grinder in the pinch-welded metal behind. Then I hammered the pinch-welded metal 90º and folded the front metal back up with a new curve. Sorry but I forgot to take photos. :-(

Here is the finished product with some primer overspray The running board is a good gauge to show that the fender liner has moved back about an inch. My tires never hit the running boards but rubbed on the liner and fastener in the past. This should take care of that.




Matt

 

[11MPG]

Nice truck. I was wondering though have you considered body lifting it? There's a guy on another forum with a 2001 8.1 burb that did just a 3 inch body lift with the 1.5 crank in the front and he fit's 315/75/16s tires fine with no rub during his wheeling/camping trips.

 

[snowblind]

Nice truck. I was wondering though have you considered body lifting it? There's a guy on another forum with a 2001 8.1 burb that did just a 3 inch body lift with the 1.5 crank in the front and he fit's 315/75/16s tires fine with no rub during his wheeling/camping trips.

Thanks 11. I like yours also.

I'm not looking for more lift. My problem with these trucks is that you NEED a lift BECAUSE of the inner fender shape.

I would much rather go with less lift and tuck the tires into the fenders. I had my Sub maybe a 1/2" higher in the front and the there was no rubbing. I clearanced the fenders because I wanted to bring the suspension angles down a little bit and I also because I prefer the look of less empty space above the tires.

Perfect Suburban for me would be a 4" lift with 37s tucked in.


Matt

 

[snowblind]

Cash me outside.

Hey Everybody.

It's been a while since I posted to this thread. Suburban just turned 130,000 miles. Drove out to Oregon and up to Canada last summer. Nothing major to report mechanically.

Here's a couple of pics.


Wearing 285/70/17 General Arctimax snow tires. Husqvarna 650 on the rear hitch.




Pismo Beach, December 2016. Wearing 285/70/17 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac



Pismo Beach. Running with the big dogs.




Matt

 

[boss324]

Nice Suburban!