2005 Tundra novice build

Kpack

Adventurer
Thanks for your input regarding tires. I'm definitely leaning heavily toward the BFG's. Yes everyone has them, but that I think speaks highly of the tire.


Got the truck back today from several days in the shop. I feel bad for the guys who had to work on it! All four cam bolts had to be cut off in order to get the LCA's off the truck, and that was a pretty miserable process for them. We kept the old LCA's because there was nothing wrong with them, and it was cheaper to just press out the bushings and put new ones in. Still, it wasn't a cheap fix....~$1,100 when all was said and done.....new OEM bushings and sleeves, new cam bolts (with zerk fittings this time!), labor, and alignment. They earned every penny of the labor. There's no way I could have done this fix on my own. I don't have the right tools, the time or the patience.

Shiny new cam bolts. Grease fittings are on the outsides of all four bolts.


Truck drives noticeably better now. The rest of my front end is pretty new (ball joints, tie rods) but the front still felt a bit squirrely. Not anymore. Drives straight as an arrow, feels planted during cornering even without the sway bar connected, and steering response is improved. The truck even sits better now....raised the lift on both front sides by ~1/4". Looks like the old bushings were smashed as well as cracked.
 
I used to only buy BFg’s. But they’ve gotten a little too proud of them, which is reflected in the price. I put General Grabber AT2’s on my doublecab a couple of years ago and love them. Not only cheaper, but available in Load Range D. Just ordered 4 more yesterday from Discount Tire. Paid $165/each (price match) for 285/75-16’s. They are replacing the nearly new 275/70-16 BFG AT’s on my “new to me” 4Runner. Running a 10-ply on a light vehicle is overkill. I ran load range C’s on my 1st gen tundra’s.


EDIT: Well shoot... General stopped making the AT2... replaced with the ATX... which is only available in Load Range E.... /kicks dirt
 
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Still, it wasn't a cheap fix....~$1,100 when all was said and done.....new OEM bushings and sleeves, new cam bolts (with zerk fittings this time!), labor, and alignment. They earned every penny of the labor. There's no way I could have done this fix on my own. I don't have the right tools, the time or the patience.



Truck drives noticeably better now.
Ouch! Sounds like money well spent, but spending that much still hurts. I'm glad there was a tangible improvement to at least make it feel worthwhile.

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Kpack

Adventurer
Ouch! Sounds like money well spent, but spending that much still hurts. I'm glad there was a tangible improvement to at least make it feel worthwhile.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Took a closer look under the truck and saw that they went ahead and just replaced the entire LCA's along with the bushings. The shop probably destroyed the old LCA's cutting the bolts off. So that's part of the expense...the cheapest I found OEM ones for online was $200 a piece. Plus new cam bolts, alignment, and tax. The rest was all labor....well worth it to me if it means I don't have to do it.


I've noticed ever since the new alignment that I rub like crazy before I get to full lock. I never hit the pinch weld before but now I'm all over it. That's not going to work for trail running....looks like to it's time to pound on the pinch weld and flatten it.

They must have changed the caster when they did the alignment, but I thought that you can't change caster with uniball UCA's??? Would changing just the camber and the toe push the wheels further back in the wheel well? Whatever it is, the wheels are definitely further back than they used to be....or my old alignment was just so far off that the tires completely missed the pinch weld.

-Kevin
 

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
I haven't read what UCA's that you got, but they do change the caster from stock. And they have to adjust with alignment cam's You probably are running more caster. I always get a print out of an alignment so i can see what they did. Or they adjusted your caster to stock caster, buy pushing the LCA back to accomadate the extra caster put into UCA's...Just depends on what ones you got but most aftermarket UCA's will add caster.
 

Kpack

Adventurer
I haven't read what UCA's that you got, but they do change the caster from stock. And they have to adjust with alignment cam's You probably are running more caster. I always get a print out of an alignment so i can see what they did. Or they adjusted your caster to stock caster, buy pushing the LCA back to accomadate the extra caster put into UCA's...Just depends on what ones you got but most aftermarket UCA's will add caster.
Camburg UCA's. I know they increase caster over stock, which from what I understand is a good thing. I didn't realize you could push the LCA's back and decrease the caster again....that must be what they did. I don't have a printout because the shop that did the work had a third-party shop do the alignment, and they didn't provide my shop with the final information.

I will probably need it realigned. When I turn to passenger I can only get about halfway before the tire starts destroying the inner wheel well.....I don't think any amount of hammering on the pinch weld is going to give me enough space. Time to get on the phone, sigh.
 
the st maxx is surprisingly quiet and smooth and work fantastic in the snow and ice but they are heavy and quite stiff. had them on my sequoia in a 255/85r16 and they really wouldn't start to squat down till you dropped them down to 18psi . they also don't have the snowflake rating so if you travel in areas where traction tires are required that could be a issue ( never been stopped for it in my life )

ko2 just plain work well in all conditions, fantastic tire , there is a reason they are so popular

another tire to check out is the falken wildpeak atw3, buddy has them on a jk and I have been extremely impressed with where they drag that thing around , goes places a at tire shouldn't be getting traction still . also winter rated
 

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
Agreed! the AT3 is an amazing tire, and i am sold on them compared to KO3s...

OP, yes the Camburg will add caster, and a shop will try to get the caster back to factory specs, unless other wise told.
 
-Gamiviti hood mount bracket for Toyota (http://www.gamiviti.com/antenna-brackets)


The bracket fits perfectly. Remove this bolt, put the bracket on, and tighten it back up. The bracket I ordered is made for the driver's side, and accounts for the downward rake of the engine bay, and holds the antenna straight up.


I routed the coax past the rear of the hydraulic hood lift so it wouldn't get pinched. I then routed the coax through the firewall. On my truck there was a piece in the existing rubber grommet that looked like it was there for this purpose. I clipped off the tip of the rubber, opening a hole, and fished the coax through. On the coax cable I bought I had to remove the PL-259 end in order for it to fit. I got rid of all the excess cable this way too.


I routed the cable under the lower edge of the dash and behind the center console. The cable lays on top of the tray and terminates around the cup holders. I soldered a new PL 239 connector on, then attached it to the 239-SMA female adapter and then onto the radio.
.

Did you have to mod/bend your gamiviti mount at all?
I just put one on the drivers side of my access cab in the same location and the hood wont close without scraping it. When I close the hood, it pushes the mount towards the fender. Also, is the gap between the fender and hood enough room for the coax to run without it getting damaged?
 

Kpack

Adventurer
Agreed! the AT3 is an amazing tire, and i am sold on them compared to KO3s...

OP, yes the Camburg will add caster, and a shop will try to get the caster back to factory specs, unless other wise told.
I'll have to look into the AT3....looks less expensive than the KO2's. Snow rated is also a good thing here. Last winter wasn't bad, but the winter before was brutal!

Did you have to mod/bend your gamiviti mount at all?
I just put one on the drivers side of my access cab in the same location and the hood wont close without scraping it. When I close the hood, it pushes the mount towards the fender. Also, is the gap between the fender and hood enough room for the coax to run without it getting damaged?
I'm pretty sure I had to bend mine out to the fender slightly so it didn't hit the hood. Once installed I then bent the mounting surface a bit back towards the hood so the antenna would stand up straight. There is just enough room for the coax cable to run between the fender and the hood when closed. It's a tight fit, but no damage at all when opening and closing. I'll get a picture and post it later.

I'm considering getting a second Gamiviti mount for the other side to replace my factory antenna. Whoever had the truck before me broke the factory antenna off and the mounting threads are completely stripped, so I can't replace it easily. I'm wondering if I could use a a different antenna on a Gamiviti mount and plug it into my head unit? I don't listen to the radio much, but it would at least be nice to have that option.
 
the st maxx is surprisingly quiet and smooth and work fantastic in the snow and ice but they are heavy and quite stiff. had them on my sequoia in a 255/85r16 and they really wouldn't start to squat down till you dropped them down to 18psi . they also don't have the snowflake rating so if you travel in areas where traction tires are required that could be a issue ( never been stopped for it in my life )

ko2 just plain work well in all conditions, fantastic tire , there is a reason they are so popular

another tire to check out is the falken wildpeak atw3, buddy has them on a jk and I have been extremely impressed with where they drag that thing around , goes places a at tire shouldn't be getting traction still . also winter rated
I wonder if just that size doesn't have the snow flake rating? I swear they did....if they don't that would probably change my tire choice.

EDIT **did some research and apparently they aren't rated**
 
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Kpack

Adventurer
So you other 1st gen owners with aftermarket UCA's (Camburg, Total Chaos, SPC, etc)....what are your alignment numbers? Specifically what is your caster set to??

Factory spec is 0.5 degrees....upper end of factory spec is 2 degrees. Camburg says to set it at 6 degrees. What do you all think? The alignment guys want me to give them a number to hit, and I'm not sure. They gave me the necessary "setting specs different from factory could cause abnormal wear, etc", but if camber and toe are dead on, positive caster should only help steering stability right?? Shouldn't have any adverse effects on tire wear, right?
 
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