2012 LR4 Overland Project - Build Journal & Blog

#32
You’re just showing off the locking diff toggle 🤣

That’s awesome and I’m glad it seems like that value fixes it.

I really wonder what the other tire option parameters are used for...

My coworker who came from UK JLR and worked on the BCU for the D3/4/5 says she’ll ask around.
 
#35
Hey treckin, I noted this member saying he has retrofitted rear locker to his LR4: https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...-and-locating-hd-package.193263/#post-2470727

Though, not sure if it is the factory locker or an aftermarket...
Thanks, I've run past those posts before, but I havent seen an actual writeup or walkthrough before!

Another update - I installed the APT control arm armor, compressor armor, and air tank armor.

I also installed the Front Runner drawer system.

Loving the armor - I have a request out to APT to make rear control arm armor as well, they said theyd look into it after pumping out the new D5 parts.

Notes on install:

The front sway bar makes installing the control arm armor difficult as the rearmost bolt will impact the sway bar when installing. A drive-on hoist or some clever prybar work is required.

The air tank armor took 2 minutes. I added loctite as I couldnt find any locking mechanism on the bolts/weldnuts on that piece.

The air compressor armor required me to remove 90% of the driver's side side skirt. I also had to snip some plastic from the sideskirt near the compressor to allow sharing of the bolt holes. Apparently not an issue if you have rock sliders. Also, having the vehicle on a hoist and the suspension at full droop causes the tires to track inwards quite a bit. It looks like the compressor armor will interfere with the tire, however once loaded its well clear. Also, it looks freaking bad ass.

The Front Runner drawer system was very easy to assemble, if you dont follow the instructions. For some reason it has you install the wings and deck lids before you install it in to the vehicle, which is of course wrong. Oops. Do it after installing it into the rear of the vehicle. Also, apparently the Wolf Packs do not fit into the drawers, which was a big surprise. I missed the memo on that one. Maybe I need the Cub Packs?

Pics:
 

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#36
Thanks, I've run past those posts before, but I havent seen an actual writeup or walkthrough before!

Another update - I installed the APT control arm armor, compressor armor, and air tank armor.

I also installed the Front Runner drawer system.

Loving the armor - I have a request out to APT to make rear control arm armor as well, they said theyd look into it after pumping out the new D5 parts.

Notes on install:

The front sway bar makes installing the control arm armor difficult as the rearmost bolt will impact the sway bar when installing. A drive-on hoist or some clever prybar work is required.

The air tank armor took 2 minutes. I added loctite as I couldnt find any locking mechanism on the bolts/weldnuts on that piece.

The air compressor armor required me to remove 90% of the driver's side side skirt. I also had to snip some plastic from the sideskirt near the compressor to allow sharing of the bolt holes. Apparently not an issue if you have rock sliders. Also, having the vehicle on a hoist and the suspension at full droop causes the tires to track inwards quite a bit. It looks like the compressor armor will interfere with the tire, however once loaded its well clear. Also, it looks freaking bad ass.

The Front Runner drawer system was very easy to assemble, if you dont follow the instructions. For some reason it has you install the wings and deck lids before you install it in to the vehicle, which is of course wrong. Oops. Do it after installing it into the rear of the vehicle. Also, apparently the Wolf Packs do not fit into the drawers, which was a big surprise. I missed the memo on that one. Maybe I need the Cub Packs?

Pics:
 

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#38
Two cub packs fit in the right side (long ways) and I got clear totes for the left side at Costco. Three fit well and the extra three of the package work for the garage for storage. Yeah, the side parts work better after install of the drawers, didn't follow any directions, just looked at the pictures.
Have to occasionally tighten the side anchors. I took out the rear most seats for a lot of room under the drawers. I did not tighten down the rear most top lid for easy access to that additional storage area.
The whole system was a bit too heavy for just me to install so I took out the drawers and slider rails. PITA to install them after putting the box but it works well and makes a great sleeping platform with the storage boxes I made to go over the second row seats. Rarely use the second row seating but the boxes are removable in the event I have more passengers. My ARB fridge is in the center and it all makes a level platform to sleep in the Rover.
I used the black slide in round anchors on the roof rack rather than the deck of the drawers. Still have the rubber mat for the back rolled up in my garage as it doesn't work for my installation.
 

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#39
Two cub packs fit in the right side (long ways) and I got clear totes for the left side at Costco. Three fit well and the extra three of the package work for the garage for storage. Yeah, the side parts work better after install of the drawers, didn't follow any directions, just looked at the pictures.
Have to occasionally tighten the side anchors. I took out the rear most seats for a lot of room under the drawers. I did not tighten down the rear most top lid for easy access to that additional storage area.
The whole system was a bit too heavy for just me to install so I took out the drawers and slider rails. PITA to install them after putting the box but it works well and makes a great sleeping platform with the storage boxes I made to go over the second row seats. Rarely use the second row seating but the boxes are removable in the event I have more passengers. My ARB fridge is in the center and it all makes a level platform to sleep in the Rover.
I used the black slide in round anchors on the roof rack rather than the deck of the drawers. Still have the rubber mat for the back rolled up in my garage as it doesn't work for my installation.

That’s beautiful, thanks for replying!

Do you have a build thread that I can follow as well?

Great stuff 👍
 
#40
@treckin

This is a great build and thanks for sharing. Are all of the APT parts aluminum or is the black compressor plate steel and powder coated?

Also, can you take a measurement of your FR drawer kit height for me? I'm curious to know how high it sits compared to my NL fridge mounted in the center seat area? A measurement from the back with the tailgate down from the bottom of the drawer plate (Landy floor) to the top of the drawer platform you have your mat on would be perfect if you are able to!

Thanks, Amigo, happily following the thread for this lovely LR4.

Cheers,

E
 
#41
@treckin

This is a great build and thanks for sharing. Are all of the APT parts aluminum or is the black compressor plate steel and powder coated?

Also, can you take a measurement of your FR drawer kit height for me? I'm curious to know how high it sits compared to my NL fridge mounted in the center seat area? A measurement from the back with the tailgate down from the bottom of the drawer plate (Landy floor) to the top of the drawer platform you have your mat on would be perfect if you are able to!

Thanks, Amigo, happily following the thread for this lovely LR4.

Cheers,

E
Hey @Victory_Overland! Thanks for the compliments :)

Ill take those measurements and get back to you.

The APT control arm armor is aluminum, the air tank armor is aluminum, and the air compressor is zinc coated and then black powder coated steel - its pretty heavy duty.

Another update:

Although the dampers feel better at the ~890mm to ~900mm ground to wheel arch height, I had a close call on the freeway where I was going about 75 MPH and was cutoff by a neighboring vehicle. When I counter-steered, the vehicle nearly lost control.

I lowered the vehicle "20mm" in the IID tool, which lowered the vehicle about 15mm at each corner, as measured. This means that I cant use the access height setting without bouncing into extended mode, and the dampers dont feel quite as good. It does however plant the vehicle at speed much better, and also improves braking feel, cornering feel, and the effectiveness of the DSC when cornering a little hot.

If I were the primary driver of the vehicle I might have left it at the ~900mm height, however as my wife is the primary driver of the LR4 I elected to lower it a bit.

It feels to me that there is some tradeoff that has to happen between the damping range, the control arm angles, the center of gravity, and the caster angles. This is the reason Id like to try making some custom control arms/axles to bring it back to square after the lift.
 
#42
I also have lowered mine 15mm from the High All three setting.. your right it does make a difference to the DSC and other dynamics. I can still get into Access but i now get a warning chime (but it does not bounce up into extended mode)... another solution is to set a special program for access height in the IID tool - and just activate it when needed - not as convenient but works.
 
#43
Got the new “open diff” as advertised on eBay. Because they had pics of the vehicle vin plate I was able to use Topix to confirm they were selling the locking unit but didn’t know what they had.

Freaking eBay, order the locking unit, get the open diff, order the open diff, get the locker...

Spins nicely, not sure about internals, clutches, etc.


Also, I don’t think they shipped the connector, so I’ll have to source that too, damnit.
 

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