3rd Gen Montero Questions

offthepath

Adventurer
Hard to say, but I doubt its bottom end related. Id say much more likely to be top end, lifters, valves etc. Especially given the sudden power loss when the problem started and it not wanting to run.

Sorry to hear it, that looks like a nice rig.
 

DeltaFry

Observer
Hard to say, but I doubt its bottom end related. Id say much more likely to be top end, lifters, valves etc. Especially given the sudden power loss when the problem started and it not wanting to run.

Sorry to hear it, that looks like a nice rig.
Thanks offthepath, I hope it's top end too. Everything worked when suddenly this thing popped up. The engine oil was there and I'm thinking what might have been the root cause? I'm still thinking the cruise on the hills with PID program took the revs too high on the wrong gear. Any stories of this sought?
 

normal_dave

waytoomuchwritinginposts.
Well, I'm here and you're there so this is only my guess. I still say check the lifters. Listen to the youtube video post #7 in the pajero club victoria post you linked in your first post. It turned out to be a lifter and sounds pretty familiar.

On another guess, pull your dipstick and smell the oil. Does it smell like gasoline? If something failed and you ended up getting fuel into the oil pan (open injector, etc.) then the lifters wouldn't pump up, and oil pressure would certainly not be happy.

I really wonder if you are also hearing detonation (heavy spark knock) along with noisy lifters. I don't have a 3.8L engine, so I'm cautious to say, but there's a fair amount of noises going on there. Exhaust leak?, A/C compressor clutch wobbly?, fuel injectors seem really noisy to me, but listening again, much more probability for lifters, as the tick is fairly light in my opinion.

Where are you on the maintenance list? If a timing belt is in your future, then tackle it, and eliminate the hydraulic tensioner etc. as an issue. If spark plugs are on the list, then you have an excuse to pull the rockers and inspect and bleed the lifters.

Right now, I'm thinking oil change with correct oil and filter, then see about getting the lifters pumped back up. There is a procedure basically slow and steady rpm raise to ~ 3,000 about 10-15 secs per cycle up to 3K, then drop back to idle. Usually 10 or so cycles will do it. Obviously if there is trouble with the timing belt and/or adjuster then fix that first or risk piston to valve contact when it fails.

Anybody else with a 3.8L hear anything different or unusual with the videos?
 

KyleT

Explorer
Before you change the oil dump a quart of plain AUto transmission fluid in the oil.run it in the driveway or drove it around a few miles then change the oil and filter and put in shell rotella T6 5w40. I've had success with this cleaning out oil galleys in other HLA lifter motors. It's worth a shot. The ATF is highly detergent so it cleans pretty well.


Edit, video sounds like lifters and a cold exhaust leak. The manifolds crack way easy on these.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
Are there any engine codes being displayed at all? The loud knock sounds like a loose metal panel. Could be cracked exhaust manifold or a broken mount bolt. Try to get a code reading from Autozone if you have not done so already.
 

DeltaFry

Observer
Are there any engine codes being displayed at all? The loud knock sounds like a loose metal panel. Could be cracked exhaust manifold or a broken mount bolt. Try to get a code reading from Autozone if you have not done so already.
Thanks will do that but took it to a mechanic.. engine bad says he... There is engine oil so he wants ***0 to find out what's the problem. Any good mechanics in Texas for this job? Totally disappointed with 6G75...stupid engine
 

DeltaFry

Observer
Thanks will do that but took it to a mechanic.. engine bad says he... There is engine oil so he wants ***0 to find out what's the problem. Any good mechanics in Texas for this job? Totally disappointed with 6G75...stupid engine
The mechanics are so greedy that they want to give me a bill for an engine job before spending time for checking the root cause...
http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?52326-6G75-engine-failures

http://www.modifiedmitsubishi.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=908

I want no 3.5 buyers to get jacked up... Just ain't worth the cost
 

DeltaFry

Observer
Thanks @normaldave - I did and like them. They have the same opinion(engine bust - Rod bearing problem) but were able to give me an alternate option. So as I start my day, I'm thinking what to do???
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
I would defitely go to the recommended mechanic for a real diagnosis.

I have heard about what KyleT said about adding a quart of trans fluid to free lifters. Make sure you take out a quart of oil first and that it really is a stuck lifter.

I love my gen 3 with the 3.8 but I know engines are in somewhat short supply. For the cost of a 6g75 rebuild, depending on the problems involved and amount of work needed, you may consider a used motor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-05-06...s=Make:Mitsubishi&vxp=mtr&hash=item2cae651b65

Not sure about core exchange. Just an idea.
 

DSouth

Observer
This sounds like almost the exact same situation I was in a few weeks ago. I was almost certain the issue was a bad rod bearing, but before I sank a bunch of money in a used engine I decided to get an opinion from the Mitsu Dealer. I'm not normally a fan of Dealer Service, but I figure they have the MUTII error code reader and the most experience with these engines that they would probably be able to diagnose the issue the best. It should only cost 100-200 dollars for a diagnosis. My issue ended up being a piece of the spark plug that broke off and was banging around in the combustion chamber. Once that piece made it out of the engine it's been running fine.

Long story short, go to an expert -- someone who has worked on these engines before and for a long time to get the best input.
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
It would be easy enough to pull coils and plugs to check that no pieces have broken off. It may need a rebuild if it is the rod bearing, but that is a sign of poor maintenance, e.g. not doing regular oil changes. With regular maintenance, these engines run very well and have seen several 3.5L versions past 200k.

It has always been cheaper for me to buy a used replacement part than get a rebuild. Diff repair would be $1k or more just in parts. I bought a used LSD model for $300 and installed it myself.
 

DSouth

Observer
Hope it never gets that far, but if it does, I remembered this prior post to DSouth's question. It's an '03 Montero 3.8L engine with 33K on it in El Paso, TX.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/159581-Gen-III-6G75-Engine-Interchangability?p=2111761#post2111761
That's true. I did some checking on this engine and verified the VIN of the donor vehicle, it matched 33k mile engine. I was going to hire a local mobile mechanic to go do an in-person inspection but then found out I didn't need a replacement engine after all.

Good luck!
 

DeltaFry

Observer
Thanks all for your suggestion and advice. I took the following actions -
1. Went to a couple more mechanics and confirmed it was a bottom end issue.
2. Went ahead and purchased a re-manufactured motor(timed-up) and it will arrive at the mechanics tomorrow and
3. The installation might begin from tomorrow or next week.

This was an expensive decision(almost doubled my used car purchase cost) but, I want to keep my Montero for what it is other than the "interference engine" . Wish me luck with the reinstall. Any suggestions while I get this reinstall are welcome and appreciated.
 
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