40 Guy builds a 100 Series

Rezarf <><

Once I started wheeling the 100 (it is a pleasure to drive off road!) I knew I needed some sliders. There's just no way to enjoy yourself on any real trail with that much rocker panel hanging down unprotected. So the search was on, I picked up a set of used Slee step sliders from a buddy selling his 100. They've been outside and driven on I-70 in the snow/sand/deicer for the past 6 years. They're still solid but needed cleaning up! He gave me a great deal on them and I bolted my old steps up to his 100 in return so he could sell his as it rolled off the factory floor. Win for all involved :wings:


After tearing them down and wet sanding them...

After wet sanding and scuffing them up I shot them with some gloss paint. I love the Rustoleum Industrial Hard Hat paint. I've had good luck with it on my 40 tire carrier for like 10 years. Also, I used some 3M Step Tape, basically its skate tape and cut the holes out for the screw, logo and drain holes. It came out nice. Time will tell if I need to have it powder coated with texture to make it last.


Rezarf <><

I think they came out great and looking good as new. I considered powder coat but for the $100 to re-powdercoat them and have the steps textured, I figured I'd give $10 bucks of touch up paint a go. They have held up great this winter and I plan on adding a strip of LED's to the rail for rock lights soon.


Rezarf <><

Getting my front windows tinted this afternoon I thought I'd throw up a before shot. I went in on the tint that is being sold by ScottyD over on Mud. I called every shop here in Denver and they confirmed you'd have to buy the whole roll for them to do it. So, I think ScottyD is giving everyone a great deal at the price he's offering shipped.

Viper Ceramic 30%

It is Viper Bronze 30% tint. It should be spot on.


And After, it came out very very close to the factory color. I am stoked...

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Rezarf <><

Next up, upgrade the audio system and add a smart head unit with GPS, Bluetooth, hands free calling, CD, backup camera etc.

I opted for a new all in one double DIN unit from JVC based on price and nothing else I bought it from a friend for a great price, I am usually pretty brand loyal to Alpine but this was a deal I couldn't pass up. I layed out all the associated wiring and harnesses for the install and they are labeled below...

Popping in a new headunit isn't hard at all. Running the wires cleanly, securely and properly is just time consuming. I solder all connections then use heat shrink tubing. I also use an adapter for the stock harness so I don't need to cut anything factory in the cruiser and I can return the system to factory in minutes.

Step one: Yank out the dash control panel, it just snaps in.
Step two: Run your wires and cables in the right places.
Step three: Button it up.

Okay, it might be a little more involved than that but not too much. I did make a custom harness with the JVC/Toyota combo and needed to solder about 20ish connections there. Otherwise, it's plug and play.

Here's what you start with:

Slowly and carefully tear the insert out! :D

Disconnect the AC controls...

Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the factory Head Unit from the dash and remove the brackets so you can slap them on the new stereo.

Attach the brackets onto the new Head Unit. Snug them up but don't crank on them.

Plug in your new connections, (ipod, camera, rear RCA outs, Speaker wires, power, everything in the harness that attaches to your adapter) then bolt the Head Unit in and replace the front dash panel after reconnecting all the AC controls.

Rezarf <><

Next up is getting some Communication in the Cruiser. I was looking into another CB setup like I have in the 40, with a Cobra 75 hand unit. However, after really looking into the costs and realizing lots of my friends are running HAM radio in our local club Rising Sun, I started looking at the costs for installing a HAM. The costs weren't that different so I took the plunge and dove in with both feet. I just passed my test and got my ticket... no biggie.

My callsign is K0RZF for REZARF :sombrero:

I'd been kicking the idea around for a while but when I had a friend put a used dual band radio up for sale a Kenwood TM-G707e with a seperation kit that allows me to run the radio in the back or under a seat and put the "face plate" where every I choose... I jumped on it.

Here is what I am starting with and the components I chose for the install... thanks to my Rising Sun friends and Nakman for helping me along the way!

  • Kenwood TM-g707
  • Kenwood seperation kit DFK-3C
  • Diamond K-400SNMO Hatch Mount
  • Diamond Teflon Micro Coax cable
  • Comet SBB-5 with NMO mount
  • Mic Holder
  • NMO Weather Cap
  • Motorola External Speaker (Different from pic)

The installation seemed to take forever since I believe in doing all electrical work 100% correct to eliminate gremlins down the road. I would also say I spent close to $250 on the installation parts alone. I was a little shocked at how quick it all added up. However in the end the installation is clean, done correctly, safe, and hidden. I have a lot of detail pics that I will add soon detailing the installation process but I am stoked to have the 2m/70cm capability in the rig, it is one more layer of safety and convenience.

FWIW, I ended up buying a Midland 75-822 CB for trail work, and it is has a battery pack which is nice for spotting others on the trail and listening to the weather report in camp.
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Rezarf <><

For this install I started in the rear and worked my way forward...

I was really impressed with the Diamond mount. It went on easy and is rock solid. Routing the cable was pretty easy too.

First up I needed to see how high I could get the antenna without interfering with roof when the hatch is open. I also wanted the antenna to be able to fold over and be attached to the wind deflector on the rear hatch. I started a little lower than I ended up, I'll run it there until I find a need to move it.

Positioned it where I wanted, I ended about 3" higher than this. Once the base is in position you have to rebuild the mount and set the initial angle of mount. The mount has two pivot points which allow an amazing amount of angle adjustment.

A view of the mounting system, 4 set screws on a bare stainless or aluminum strip. The underside of the exterior surfaces is rubberized and protects the paint. You can see where the paint is left off of the mount to create good grounding surfaces. This mount was the second most expensive part of the entire system behind the radio, but I am impressed with the quality.

My first routing attempt ended with a kinked and broken coax due to the cable holder adhesive failure. When it failed the cable got chopped by the door closing up on it. Ham Radio Outlet was awesome and replaced the entire unit no questions asked when they saw how it failed. They are a great vendor to deal with.

Rezarf <><

Okay so the original coax cable got severed by the rear hatch when the cable holders (the little white squares) failed. The wire moved and it got chopped. So I had to return the cable and the guys at Ham Radio Outlet were great and replaced the damaged part no questions asked.

Out came the drill to do this right. I ended up drilling a hole into the lift gate, and running the coax cable through the factory grommet between the lift gate and rear of the 100. This is 100% better arrangement and the coax hasn't moved a millimeter since.

I had to open the hole up to about 1/2" to get the coax cable terminal through... deburred the edges with a file then I painted the edge, and used a grommet with silicone to seal it up.

I use zip ties like a needle to pull my cable through the factory grommet. Thread it through with your cable taped to the end and it comes out cleanly on the other side, then tug and WHOA LA! your wire comes through with ease.

Here is the finished product pre silicone sealant. It has been perfect so far, time will tell if this is the last time I need to address this or not.
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Rezarf <><

Wiring the HAM radio was a little involved. Basically, I created all the wires needed to run the HAM from the rear of the 100. This involved running:

Fused Power and Negative wire to the radio brain. (12ga was used)
Power pole connections at both ends.
Breaching the firewall, thanks Toyota!
External speaker wire to the dash
External Mic Cat5 cable to the center console
Separation Kit for the Kenwood Control

I also added:
Rear LED Lights power cable
Backup Camera RCA and Power cable.

This took what seemed like forever. Running wires to where they are all hidden, tidy, rattle free and safe takes a lot of time. I joked with my wife saying I've never worked so hard to have all my work remain invisible. :D

Here is where I ran my power wire through the firewall... thank you Toyota for the over sized accessible grommet!

I decided to give the Anderson Power Poles a try for the 100 series. So far they are outstanding and easy to work with. I assume they will hold up well. If you have the installation tool they are a snap to install. I also ran all my power wire in nylon braid to keep it looking factory under the hood.

I used Nylon braid and shrink wrap under the hood to make it look as factory as possible.

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Rezarf <><

I bundled all the wires I needed and popped off the trim I needed in the rear cargo area and along the door sills to stuff the wires under the carpet and sill plates. There are a lot of little things to remove to do this right but nothing is hard about it.

Now, if you aren't running a separation kit then you don't have to do all of this, just wire it up where you can reach the controls and you're on the air, but I liked the idea of keeping the cockpit as clean as possible and this helps me do that. Here are the wires still needing to be added and the panel removed in the rear to hide the cables and wires.

I mounted my face plate to the ashtray as it made for easy wiring, easy to operate position and I can fiddle with it while resting my hand on the shifter giving me a bit of stability while on the road or trail.
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