80-20 aluminum shapes & fittings - pick up cap fabrication - will it work?

s.e.charles

Well-known member
even if it's $2500 worth of materials, and I place $0.00 on my time, the end cost would be less, or equal to, a bought unit. has someone here done it? what am I not considering? no; I don't know how, or wish to learn, welding skills.
 

S2DM

Adventurer
It could be done, but you'd need to skin it with something water proof. Saying it could be done isn't the same as saying it should be done though :) 80/20 is incredibly rigid for its weight, but you'd have a lot of point loads at each joint. At a minimum, I'd want to fabricated some gusset plates that you'd attach with their plate fasteners to distribute out the load. You could also skin it with aluminum and an adhesive like sika 252 if you properly prepared the 80/20 first, which would increase the strength quite a bit. Not sure Its the best choice of material for a super structure like that though. The other thing to consider, and Ive used some 80/20 to add rigidity in a few spots, but because of its extruded nooks and crannies, there is quite a bit of space to collect dust and grime thats impossible to clean.
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
I think the original post is an example of me knowing what I meant but not wording it correctly in order to convey my idea fully.

my thought was to build the skeleton from 80-20, and then as mentioned, sheath it in perhaps 6 mm marine plywood. to that would be bonded aluminum skin. I have woodworking experience and carbide tools, so the method of attachment so it wouldn't oilcan would be my challenge. the space in between the framing (80-20) inside would be thinsulated, and a finished wall panel applied. also have not found a convincing argument why the interior paneling could not extend to the truck bed, and the bed sides be insulated with custom crafted thinsulate bolsters.and following that, why couldn't the floor be attached to the side paneling and - hey! - we just made a camper!!!

fiberglass could cover instead of aluminum, but I honestly don't want the process in my future if I can avoid it. and doubt gel-coating a satisfactory finish is within my skill-set anyway.

the reason behind custom fabrication (really don't like the moniker "home-made" - never have/ never will) is so that I can build what suits me without the compromise of manufacturer constraints, or financial burden for changes. lord knows I have no qualms about p*ss*ng away money, but I want to know where it's going.

I like the go-fast idea, and definitely would want the cap to bump over the truck cab a portion, anyway. I would most likely have a rack, escape hatch, solar, as long as i'm dreaming, on the roof, but no need for the tilt up feature. I was thinking along the lines of a monitor roof like the old trolleys: 1527282139311.png
 
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s.e.charles

Well-known member
so youtubing myself bleary eyed makes me wonder: anyone make a cap riser? something to go between bed and cap to pick it up maybe 8". I don't mean one of those hokey "I live in my '71 Datsun full time" combinations, but something you wouldn't mind being seen in driving through the parking lot at the mall . . .

(but the question was serious - it might be my solution). I think a contractor style cap with 90 degree corners and upright ends might lend itself to this more than a fiberglass shell with roundies and slants. rear access challenges would be mitigated w/ swing doors recessed enough the tailboard would still close in front of the door to add security and act as a seat/ rear deck.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I don't think it will stand up to vibration. The material is aluminum, the hardware is steel. I worked with Bosch aluminum strut in an industrial application. The steel hardware is substantially stronger than the aluminum material. You can torque the bolts to recommended specs but eventually the material yields and the hardware becomes loose. Re-torquing the bolts only starts the process over again. You will be constantly tightening the hardware until the aluminum is crushed.
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
thank you. I consideration which I never gave a thought but the way you explained it makes perfect sense.

trying to be realistic with budget (both time & materials), I have pretty much resigned myself to buying & modifying. from the onset, and through most stages of puttering, I would be able to get some use along the way. which, given my propensity to drift from task to task and hobby to hobby, might be a while before the curtains actually get hung!
 

02rangeredge

Adventurer
have you thought about a diy cap lift system? using struts of some sort like everyone uses on trailer lids or rtts to lift a cap the height you want?
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
so the next question . . . could a factory configured double door contractor style (aluminum welded frame) be modified to have the doors recessed enough for the factory tailgate to still be in place & operational?

like this, but empty:
 
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s.e.charles

Well-known member
have you thought about a diy cap lift system? using struts of some sort like everyone uses on trailer lids or rtts to lift a cap the height you want?

something along those lines: yes. remember the goofy trailers that had a removable top which, when flipped over, became a boat?

1528162449293.png

I've thought of making a plug, glassing it, and then cutting a hole in the cap roof. then there's the hunter's inflatable tent which raises the whole cap (too bizarr-o, even for me)




 

02rangeredge

Adventurer
something along those lines: yes. remember the goofy trailers that had a removable top which, when flipped over, became a boat?

View attachment 452870

I've thought of making a plug, glassing it, and then cutting a hole in the cap roof. then there's the hunter's inflatable tent which raises the whole cap (too bizarr-o, even for me)





The lift tent seems like an easy idea, theres no reason i can see for the price they put on it, tent nylon isnt expensive or hard to work with- plus if its diy the tent can be for whatever configuration you want (tailgate up, tailgate down, tailgate and hatch open, etc)
 

ricardo

Observer
I don't think it will stand up to vibration. The material is aluminum, the hardware is steel. I worked with Bosch aluminum strut in an industrial application. The steel hardware is substantially stronger than the aluminum material. You can torque the bolts to recommended specs but eventually the material yields and the hardware becomes loose. Re-torquing the bolts only starts the process over again. You will be constantly tightening the hardware until the aluminum is crushed.
Your argument makes perfect sense..

Thank you..

FYI: for some reason some factories can not re-used the 80-20 after building a "working prototype" and usually end up in the hands of one of the employees, so far I have gotten luck three times and purchase what will be around $4000 in beams and hardware for less than a $1000 (long pieces too for the most part..)
 

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