AmboLander

gtbensley

Explorer
Its certainly well worth it.

6 feet of wire, a toggle switch, and some connectors is all it takes. :sombrero:
Sorry to keep sidetracking the build thread with my own questions but I feel like my tranny when off the gas and coasting results in very little engine braking as is. Seem normal on a 7.3? Primarily when on OD it just seems to not spin up and engine brake.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
100% dependent upon programming, and when/where the torque converter is commanded to lock/unlock.

And effectiveness of the EBPV as an engine brake is 100% dependent upon RPM.

You need to drop a gear, or two for it to work well.


The E40D seems to keep the TC locked when decelerating when the overdrive is off, and if you keep your foot off the foot brake.

There is a way to "hotwire" the TC lockup feature, but Ive never seen the need in my own experience.

The 4R100 may need such a mod to work well.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Back to the build thread...

FDM2012, did you ever sort out the power delivery issues you thought you had?

How is the thing running?
 

FDM2012

Adventurer
Yes, I ordered the EBP sensor bypass dongle from SP Diesel and unplugged my EBPV. Straightened it right out.

I am having some slight overheating issues, and am about to change radiator, water pump, thermostat, and cap. 175k miles on it, plus
all the idle time that we know these rigs rack up, so I figure it is due some attention in the cooling department.

Right now, it is fine at idle, but temp climbs while underway. And continues to climb...... I have a spare radiator from another van
project that I had going, but this takes priority. I'm a Speed Perks member at Advanced, so I get most of my stuff at 20% off, so
the water pump and thermostat won't be much over $100. Since they bought out CarQuest, they have a lot better parts to choose from,
and the guys up there love my rig and help steer me to the better of their parts.

After that, the trans cooler and tinting the front windows, and I will call Phase 1 complete.

Then, on to Phase 2, which will be the preliminary interior overhaul, air compressor set up, solar install, cargo rack,
and water system.

Phase 3 will be losing the DRW and the RIP kit, but no huge hurry for that. I want to get phase 2 done before my drive to
Texas in December and at least a couple shorter excursions in Oct/Nov. I might need to lower my expectations.... lol

Been busy with work lately, so not much time in on it....... Plus, its not as fun when it is so doggone hot outside.

So, in the meantime, I just keep on researching, formulating my vision, ordering things, and shopping
the auctions and CL for deals on stuff!
 
Last edited:

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Be very careful with the thermostat. From memory (risky with my age) there is a difference between the ford/international genuine parts and the aftermarket stuff that fits in the hole. I think the ford/international ones have a longer shaft or something. Anyway I would suggest doing a bit of googlefoo on it before you throw one in.
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Ah a quick bit of google found what I was thinking about. http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite203thermostat.aspx

WHY A LONG STEM AND NOT A SHORT STEM?



Although International still uses a 203° thermostat in some applications and that thermostat is available at most auto parts stores, it is the wrong part for the 1996 - 2003 Powerstroke. DO NOT USE THIS! It has a shorter shaft and will not shut off the internal pump bypass. This will cause inaccurate coolant flow direction through the engine. This IH version thermostat mentioned is available by calling us.

The thermostat in the Powerstroke not only controls operating temperatures, but properly directs the flow of coolant through the engine. As the thermostat opens, it proportionally closes the bypass. With the thermostat fully open, the bypass is mostly closed, and vice versa. With the International (Pre-96 Ford) thermostat, this cannot be controlled properly because of the shorter bypass stem. The shorter stem of the IH(pre-96 Ford) thermostat allows the thermostat to be fully open while the bypass is fully open. This means the coolant can travel in any direction available -- whatever direction it chooses. It can either travel through the radiator or simply make the shorter, less restrictive path back through the front of the engine. This will cause uncontrolled overheating in the back cylinders of the block, with absolutely no signs of danger showing on the water temperature gauge in the cab. It is possible that the back of the engine can have no coolant flow at all yet the thermometer in the outlet of the water pump shows all to be normal. Multiple things can happen at this point. Cylinders can seize, freeze plugs can fall out and other normal symptoms of an overheating engine may occur. Worst case is a blown motor and it won't be covered under warranty.
 

FDM2012

Adventurer
Thx Oz, I actually found the very same thing. Are you running a 203? I will probably try it out.

The irony is that, here it is in the middle of summer and things are near there boiling point,
and I am being told to let the engine run a few degrees hotter. lol

But it makes sense, I reckon. And just like my girlfriend says, length matters.....
 

cjken

Explorer
I put the 203 thermostat in mine. (1995)

Here is what my water pump looked like
I swapped radiator, water pump, and thermostat this winter.
Cooling system seems great now

 
Last edited:

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
LOL

DAMN :Wow1:


Well, that says something about 7.3 cooling systems.

WAY overkill, and even with next to nothing for an impeller, it was still doing "okay" :sombrero:
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
NEXT TO NOTHING...


Unless I'm missing something, that wouldn't move anything. It should've been making tea :D (to coin a phrase I heard used referring to Triumph sport cars).
 

FDM2012

Adventurer
Ok, so, a bit of a learning curve the last day or so. It turns out that the coolant temp readings I have
been seeing on my tuner are ambiguous. After talking to Diesel Site (Jen is one smart cookie!) and SCT,
the tuner DOES NOT receive a temp reading in any way from the ECU. SCT could/would not give me an explanation
as to why I am seeing -240 degrees at a cold start, and then up to around +240 while driving, and then around +/-
10-15 degrees of my oil temp at idle. Obviously, they applied an algorithm of some sort, but wouldn't speak to it.

IMG_20160731_152136.jpg

Anyways, the sending unit from the water pump only sends to the dash gauge, so I will re-configure my gauge set up,
and add a fuel pressure gauge to boot. It's only money, blood, sweat, and tears. Right?

The good news is that I believe my cooling system to be functioning fine, but proof will be in the pudding once I get the
coolant temp gauge in. While driving in 95 degree ambient temps, my tranny temp normally runs around 190, engine
oil temp around 198, and dash temp gauge right in the middle.
 

guidolyons

Addicted to Gear Oil
Yep. If you look at the pin out on the ECU, it reads oil temp, but not coolant temp. The coolant temp sender just drives the stock dash gauge. I have Autometer gauges, there is a spot on the driver side of the thermostat housing perfect for an after market coolant temp sender. Mine runs at 185-190. Even pushing it hard, I've never had it over 210. IIRC mine is a 185* thermostat. I have a smaller radiator, but my Scout is a bit lighter than your ambulance though...
 

FDM2012

Adventurer
Keeping with my theme of "BUDGET" build, here are a couple of my latest acquisitions.

I will sand, primer, and paint the roof racks black, and then mount to the cab.
$35 on Craigslist
IMG_20160804_114331.jpg

Then, after removing the hitch bar, I will mount this basket on top. (65x24x5) And of course, there will be a light bar
coming into play.....

$135 on Amazon (Delivered)
71190FBlbrL__SL1500_.jpg

And at my favorite wrecking yard today (in the rain...), I scavenged the rear conversion fender flares
that I will cut, shape, and paint just like I did on the the front. They actually came off of the same van out there...

$25 for the pair.
IMG_20160804_113913.jpg
IMG_20160804_114202.jpg

Here is a pic of one of my other vans that shows the lines with the same flares:
IMG_20160804_113934.jpg

I think they will turn out pretty good, and instead of spending $450 on Bushwhackers, I prefer to put my money
towards The RIP Kit (Agile) and tires in a couple of months, when I have more time on my hands.

Needless to say, I have a stock pile of parts just waiting on me!

In the coming weeks:
203 degree thermostat and Coolant temp and fuel pressure gauges
Transmission cooler
Roof Rack
Fender flares
And all the while, I have been doing exploratory surgery on the box electrical, and just staring at the
interior of the box to gain perspective on my plan.

This is all a lot of work, but I sure am enjoying it. Hope to join some kind of club at some point and do some
excursions or rallys...... I would love to bump shoulders and conspire with similar type rig builders.

Is that " a thing", here in the SouthEast?
 
Last edited:

FDM2012

Adventurer
Roof Rack:

There is no way that I was going to tear my interior apart to access the light bar bolts/nuts, so I just destroyed it instead.....
Didn't really want to, but it is now history.

Had to do some mods to the roof bars and the cage that I bought, but all said, this whole thing cost less than $200. It'll do.....

IMG_20160810_170857.jpg
IMG_20160810_172714.jpg
IMG_20160810_173242.jpg
IMG_20160810_180700.jpg
IMG_20160810_193650.jpg
IMG_20160809_141131.jpg
IMG_20160809_175430.jpg
IMG_20160810_191800.jpg
IMG_20160811_135610.jpg
IMG_20160811_134947.jpg
 
Last edited:

rlrenz

Explorer
Now that the light bar is gone, this may be useless info, but generally, a module-mounted light bar is fastened to the module with 4 bolts (usually 5/16-18). The two outside bolts are usually carriage bolts, with access to the nuts through the emergency light openings. The two closest to the center are usually hex head bolts that are tapped into the module. Modules usually have a 3/8 filler plate for these two tapped bolts, but depending on the manufacturer, it can range from a solid filler to a 4" wide filler strip that runs across the entire module.

This varies by manufacturer, and the design is also affected by walkthrough/non-walkthrough construction. If the inner bolts are accessible (often modules without a top center-mounted AC system), carriage bolts may have been used throughout the bar's mounting.

You did well to remove the lightbar - virtually all the module mounted bars are Whelen, and the older 4000 series bars took a real beating if the foam gaskets on the filler pieces were anything but perfect. After 10-15 years, there isn't much to work with anymore.

The other problem is that the end caps are usually only available with red lenses, and if you have a 4000 series bar, any lenses at all are getting harder to track down.
 
Top