Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
Good to know. For the other lights I replaced with LEDs I tried to find ones that would still work at lower voltages. Perhaps dimmable bulbs would be more tolerant.
I’m trying to figure out if a G4 bulb is close enough to a GH1/GH9 for the high. If so G4 bulbs are available in 10 packs for under cabinets, landscape lights, and a dozen other applications.
I’m trying to figure out if a G4 bulb is close enough to a GH1/GH9 for the high. If so G4 bulbs are available in 10 packs for under cabinets, landscape lights, and a dozen other applications.
Check with Super Bright LEDs also. They have just about every kind of bulb made, and conversion charts to help you find the right replacement.
I have ordered from them numerous times, and shipping is always very fast. I've not had a problem with anything I've bought in the past.
I have ordered from them numerous times, and shipping is always very fast. I've not had a problem with anything I've bought in the past.
Those look like G4 bulbs. I concluded that I can tweak them enough to fit. I’ve ordered a pack of 10 dimable LEDs.
For the wedge base lights it looks like there are many options. 921 or similar have worked for others. I’m going to order them after I try out the others.
The flood lights outside will come next... but I rarely use them when not running.
For the wedge base lights it looks like there are many options. 921 or similar have worked for others. I’m going to order them after I try out the others.
The flood lights outside will come next... but I rarely use them when not running.
You will have to determine what brand of handles and locks you have in order to get the correct cylinders. Look for a key number either on a key or on the cylinders themselves. Some ambulance manufactures use the same ones and some use different ones. Wheeled Coach for instance uses different ones depending on what year the vehicle was built.
http://www.fixmyambulance.com/door-lock-cylinders-s/1877.htm
Yep, I forgot about them! Thanks...
https://www.austinhardware.com/all-products/lock-cylinders-rods-accessories/lock-cylinders.html
https://www.austinhardware.com/all-products/lock-cylinders-rods-accessories/lock-cylinders.html
As a 'newbie' ambulance owner, I'd like to thank everyone for the great information here.
We've purchased a 2007 Horton Type 3 ambulance that had a few 'improvements' but a solid 6.0 (I realize some people don't like them) with no leaks and no ECT/EOT issues that we could identify with Torque Pro. It's 2WD, but we have 3 first generation Toyota 4Runners (2 with convertible tops) for when we just want to have fun. Our plans for travel are predominantly travelling around the country and visiting National Parks, so we don't expect to need 4WD.
I called Horton and they sent me a pin out sheet for the Intelliplex digital wiring controls and a short (4 page) document (attached in case it can help someone else) showing where they added sensors.
I'll start a separate thread in this forum with some pictures (as bought and progress as we move forward) and a thread for questions I have about separating the three battery parallel power system to a single battery start and two battery module system.
We've purchased a 2007 Horton Type 3 ambulance that had a few 'improvements' but a solid 6.0 (I realize some people don't like them) with no leaks and no ECT/EOT issues that we could identify with Torque Pro. It's 2WD, but we have 3 first generation Toyota 4Runners (2 with convertible tops) for when we just want to have fun. Our plans for travel are predominantly travelling around the country and visiting National Parks, so we don't expect to need 4WD.
I called Horton and they sent me a pin out sheet for the Intelliplex digital wiring controls and a short (4 page) document (attached in case it can help someone else) showing where they added sensors.
I'll start a separate thread in this forum with some pictures (as bought and progress as we move forward) and a thread for questions I have about separating the three battery parallel power system to a single battery start and two battery module system.
And I thought my Horton "System 2000" was complex...! I used to get an 02 warning, but it was easily reset. I think I then set the warning psi threshold to 0, such that it never worried that there was no pressure.
After a few emails to the right people there, I eventually received a bunch of PDFs from them about my ambo.
Kevin R. Handlin
Senior Electrical Engineer | Horton Emergency Vehicles
office: 614.539.8181 ext. 320 | kevin.handlin@hortonambulance.com
Mike Truban
Technical Support / Service
WORK: 614-539-8181 EXT 411
DIRECT: 614-305-2311
EMAIL: mike.truban@hortonambulance.com
After a few emails to the right people there, I eventually received a bunch of PDFs from them about my ambo.
Kevin R. Handlin
Senior Electrical Engineer | Horton Emergency Vehicles
office: 614.539.8181 ext. 320 | kevin.handlin@hortonambulance.com
Mike Truban
Technical Support / Service
WORK: 614-539-8181 EXT 411
DIRECT: 614-305-2311
EMAIL: mike.truban@hortonambulance.com
Just be glad your ambulance manufacturer is still in business! Mine is a Medic Master, which were built by American LaFrance, who went bankrupt. Thankfully, I have relay & diode technology, so I can muddle my way through fairly easily. Many of the ambulances use a V-MUX system, made by Weldon Brass. They can be complicated to work with, and expensive if you need them to change the programming.
We have 2 units with the V-MUX systems. So far I have just repurposed circuits as needed but the cost of replacement parts and the inability to reprogram and even though I have the diagnostic software and interface it is a PITA to diagnose without the original code to check against.
So I am in the early days of designing/developing/building my own monitoring and control system.
Basics concept is touch screen monitors, relay panels, microprocessor, and manual override switches for all switching functions.
So I am in the early days of designing/developing/building my own monitoring and control system.
Basics concept is touch screen monitors, relay panels, microprocessor, and manual override switches for all switching functions.
For you guys that are still looking for something LED to replace your old halogen scene lights with, this might be a fairly inexpensive solution at $69.00 ea., and still give you some pretty good light. These are 8.7" x 2.95" x 1.59" , so they would mount right over a Whelen 97 or 900 flange with a plate in it, or directly on a cover plate over the mounting hole. I have no personal experience with these, but I thought I'd throw them out here in case somebody is still looking.
"Optronics’ new UCL41 Series Scene Light is engineered to deliver an intense white LED beam at a 45-degree angle from its mounting position, making it easy to control the lighted area. Mounting the lamp higher creates a larger scene, while mounting it lower creates a smaller scene, and the lamps can be rotated before mounting to deliver light that is focused on the campsite. The low-profile surface-mount lamp is easy to install and requires only two mounting fasteners. Once the UCL41 is secured, a black- or chrome-coated plastic bezel snaps into position. The light is 12-volt DC, and requires only a 3â„4-inch hole for the wire feed. The lamp is just 8.7 inches wide and less than 3 inches tall – and a mere 1.59 inches thick when installed. MSRP: $69.99".
http://www.motorhome.com/motorhomes/motorhome-gear/in-the-spotlight/
http://optronicsinc.com/Portals/0/P...eets/b46c8524-cb10-4fc0-8273-a731af0b4285.pdf
Optronics' new UCL41 Series Scene Light
"Optronics’ new UCL41 Series Scene Light is engineered to deliver an intense white LED beam at a 45-degree angle from its mounting position, making it easy to control the lighted area. Mounting the lamp higher creates a larger scene, while mounting it lower creates a smaller scene, and the lamps can be rotated before mounting to deliver light that is focused on the campsite. The low-profile surface-mount lamp is easy to install and requires only two mounting fasteners. Once the UCL41 is secured, a black- or chrome-coated plastic bezel snaps into position. The light is 12-volt DC, and requires only a 3â„4-inch hole for the wire feed. The lamp is just 8.7 inches wide and less than 3 inches tall – and a mere 1.59 inches thick when installed. MSRP: $69.99".
http://www.motorhome.com/motorhomes/motorhome-gear/in-the-spotlight/
http://optronicsinc.com/Portals/0/P...eets/b46c8524-cb10-4fc0-8273-a731af0b4285.pdf
Optronics' new UCL41 Series Scene Light
- Raw lumen output: 2400 lm, Effective lumen output: 1200 lm
- Sonically sealed, waterproof
- Low profile design with 45-degree downward angle (lens angle at 15 degrees)