Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ

azsorenson

New member
Hello all! What are you doing for spare tire mounts? I thought one of my exterior cabinets would fit my tire, but no luck. I hate to lose flexibility on opening rear doors so thought about putting a roof rack over the cab or a front mounted carrier. Am open to see/hear what has worked for you (pics welcome!). I have a 16" 8 lug tire. Money IS an issue, but would rather have a good spare available in the event of an emergency. Thanks in advance!
Hi, ended up with a hitchgate solo from Wilco off-road. Works great, had it on the roof but a nightmare if I really need it. Easy to open up, really well engineered. They are tough to get, Wilco is a weird company that can't seem to comprehend that you need inventory, not just backorders. I had to flip mine upside down because I wanted it to open toward the driver side but it worked out.
 

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bryceon44

New member
Repair manual help?

How are you all?

Hey is there a repair manual for these ambulances at least for the front half of coach like an e-350 diesel Chilton manual etc. I have a 1997 ford e-350 7.3 wheeled coach. I have not been able to find one for diesel though. I want to see a maintenance schedule for all the fluids and filters etc and how to do the maintenance with pics and explanations?

Thank you,
 

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Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Repair manual help?

How are you all?

Hey is there a repair manual for these ambulances at least for the front half of coach like an e-350 diesel Chilton manual etc. I have a 1997 ford e-350 7.3 wheeled coach. I have not been able to find one for diesel though. I want to see a maintenance schedule for all the fluids and filters etc and how to do the maintenance with pics and explanations?

Thank you,
Just hit eBay and grab a PDF disk of the Ford service and repair manuals. The Clinton ones are a POS I think. You may even be able to find them online for free these days.
 

bryceon44

New member
Just hit eBay and grab a PDF disk of the Ford service and repair manuals. The Clinton ones are a POS I think. You may even be able to find them online for free these days.
Ok thank you. Anyone else have experience with repair manuals for the ford e-350 ambulance?
 

turbodiesel

Member
I have a set of 1997 workshop manuals that I'll give you, just pay the shipping. They are heavy but media mail shouldn't been too bad.
 

bryceon44

New member
O **** I just bought some on ebay the heavy ones. Thank you for offer. Do you have all three or is it two binders?
Thanks
 

finboy

Member
Hi all, I am checking out a quigley coil lifted Horton full ambulance, it is going to need tires before I drive it home. Does anyone know what size tires I can get away with on a quigley life without too much rubbing or highway driving concerns? I’m not looking to make an off-road beast but if I’m shelling out money for 6 new tires I’d rather only buy once.
 

katyq02

New member
Hi, ended up with a hitchgate solo from Wilco off-road. Works great, had it on the roof but a nightmare if I really need it. Easy to open up, really well engineered. They are tough to get, Wilco is a weird company that can't seem to comprehend that you need inventory, not just backorders. I had to flip mine upside down because I wanted it to open toward the driver side but it worked out.
Thank you! Good to know!
 

iggi

Ian
A couple notes for people with battery and electrical issues.

1. If you are using the factory charger/inverter then make sure to review the settings to make sure it's setup correctly for your use.
For example. The Xantrex Fleetpower 1000 (which is common in Canadian ambulances) has dip switches for AGM vs Lead Acid, Temp settings, Power output, etc.
Also the battery maintenance / desulfation mode is manually triggered. If it's been switched to turn on in that mode all the time you'll be seeing over 16 volts on charge and it'll mess things up.
Here's the copy of the older Fleetpower 1000 manual.

2. A common source of parasitic power loss is the power connect switch. Look yours up to see if it's zero draw when on, or as is common for solenoid switches it consumes power all the time that it's on. Mine had the Albright SW180 and it sucks more power than my fridge when it's on. I'm replacing with the BlueSea 7700. Will post up once I've installed it.
 
1993 FORD E350 Type 3 7.3L AMBULANCE ELECTRICAL - HELP!
I have the above-referenced ambulance with the rear converted to a camper.
  • PROBLEM: I have no rear interior lights or AC/Heat.
  • The Invertor is working.
  • The interior 120-V outlets do provide power.
  • All emergency lights have been disabled (by someone else)
  • All fuses under the dash are working.
  • The AC/Heat and Lighting Control Panel in the rear is lite-up.
  • I'm am the village-idiot of mechanical any-thing, but I'm a quick study.
Any clues?

Additional Question?

So hard to crank it runs the batteries down over half the time. Have two new batteries, and thinking about installing a new fuel pump (can't find it though), Glow Plugs and Fuel Injectors. Although easily accessible on the F350, how difficult is to get to the fuel injectors on the E350 Van? That is, can I do it myself? Seems very tight from under the hood and interior cover. JD
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
....and thinking about installing a new fuel pump (can't find it though), ...
Start cheking for air leaks. Hard to start a rig that is sucking air. (assuming you have changed all fuel filters) Last ford van I dealt with the pump was back ways on inside of chassis rail drivers side.. but it was a gasser. Some diesels the fuel pump is the IP itself........ there is no extra pump. 7.3 maybe be one of them

I would suggest though add an aux diesel fuel pump on a switch as close to the tank as you can. This will then push fuel thru the system and not suck it..... pushed fuel does not pull air into the cracks in the lines and fittings. Keeps you going when you get an air leak. Esp. if your buying time for chasing and fixing the leak. It also helps you find the air leak.... cause fuel "may" leak out of crack or loose fitting. If the pump helps a ton... then start replacing fuel lines etc. If you no longer need the pump then you finally found the fuel line or fitting that was leaking. Then you only need the pump for priming the system when you change fuel filters. Makes priming way easier too.

after that go with new glow plugs and/or and glow plug relay if they check out weak. IMHO
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
1993 FORD E350 Type 3 7.3L AMBULANCE ELECTRICAL - HELP!
I have the above-referenced ambulance with the rear converted to a camper.
  • PROBLEM: I have no rear interior lights or AC/Heat.
  • The Invertor is working.
  • The interior 120-V outlets do provide power.
  • All emergency lights have been disabled (by someone else)
  • All fuses under the dash are working.
  • The AC/Heat and Lighting Control Panel in the rear is lite-up.
  • I'm am the village-idiot of mechanical any-thing, but I'm a quick study.
Any clues?

Additional Question?

So hard to crank it runs the batteries down over half the time. Have two new batteries, and thinking about installing a new fuel pump (can't find it though), Glow Plugs and Fuel Injectors. Although easily accessible on the F350, how difficult is to get to the fuel injectors on the E350 Van? That is, can I do it myself? Seems very tight from under the hood and interior cover. JD
I think you have two likely unrelated problems.

1) The box power is usually only powered on when there is oil pressure and the ambulance connect is turned on. During the conversion process, I rewired the ambulance connect so that the "house" electrical can be powered on while the engine is powered down. It could be a fuse, relay, or connection that's causing your problems.

2) The low pressure pump is a mechanical pump located in the valley on the top of the engine. Air leaks can lead to hard starting.

Is is harder to start when cold? (Glow plugs not working well)
Does it restart easily?
 

iggi

Ian
Only a guess based on my own experience.

There are typically two sets of batteries.
One set for starting, one set for the ambulance box.

Also, the fuses under the dash are likely only for the cab/engine.
If you have the original wiring in place then the ambulance box should have its own set of fuses.




1993 FORD E350 Type 3 7.3L AMBULANCE ELECTRICAL - HELP!
I have the above-referenced ambulance with the rear converted to a camper.
  • PROBLEM: I have no rear interior lights or AC/Heat.
  • The Invertor is working.
  • The interior 120-V outlets do provide power.
  • All emergency lights have been disabled (by someone else)
  • All fuses under the dash are working.
  • The AC/Heat and Lighting Control Panel in the rear is lite-up.
  • I'm am the village-idiot of mechanical any-thing, but I'm a quick study.
Any clues?

Additional Question?

So hard to crank it runs the batteries down over half the time. Have two new batteries, and thinking about installing a new fuel pump (can't find it though), Glow Plugs and Fuel Injectors. Although easily accessible on the F350, how difficult is to get to the fuel injectors on the E350 Van? That is, can I do it myself? Seems very tight from under the hood and interior cover. JD
 
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