Another Edgestar fridge slider (63qt)

Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
After looking at, and blatantly copying other ideas posted here, I thought I would post my take on this project as it has a few unique things.

This is going in a van, and I wanted a fridge slider that would work with only one of the rear doors open, so space for the slider with 63qt fridge would be very tight. After sketching out my idea, I did a lot of searching for a shelf lock that would be strong enough, didn't take up lots of space, didn't look ugly and would not have protruding parts to catch my knee on when open. I came up with absolutely zero. So I decided to make my own from things I knew and had available.

After getting some 500lbs draw sliders the frame was simply welded up from flat stock to hold the sliders. It's simply 2 `C` braces bolted to the sliders, 1 at the front and 1 at the back.



The shelf itself is simply 3/4 ply, but for mounting the fridge to it, rather than tiedown or straps and as I wanted to keep everything simply looking. I removed the feet from the fridge and use those holes + some others that are on the fridge to bolt up from the bottom. When you remove the feet, there are 2 edges of sheet metal that fall below the mounting frame, so you can see 2 score marks in the ply shelf so no stress is on these points.


For the latch, I decided to place them at the back of the shelf so they are hidden out of the way, and use 2 motorcycle seat catches (one each side). The catches are very strong and are simply pull cable operated. I machined up some male pins to fit the catches, threaded on one side so I can adjust the slop out of them, then lock nut behind.



What I don't have any pictures of is the release. I used a motorcycle choke knob (similar to ones found in cars years ago, just smaller). Then a motorcycle throttle cable from a bike with 2 separate carbs. This 3 ended cable (pull on one end, and it operates the other two ends) is found on old British bikes and some modern Aprilias.
[EDIT check bottom for release pics]

So once all the shelf slider was done, I simply framed everything out in 3/4 ply, bolting to the draw rails and brackets, and working out from that point, as this is the only thing bolted down. I didn't want to drill holes all over the place in the van, so that's why I worked from this point.


In the above, the whole left side lifts out and can be stored on the right side or just removed. This allows me to still put full height items in the back if I need.

All the ply is coated with truck bed liner (non slip and durable), then edged with C channel ally for the uprights and flat stock for the top shelf just so add a lip. The ally is there to stop the wood edged getting chipped.


While I was at it, I made a few cubbyholes to store all my tools / jack / toeing crap etc etc.


Rest of the pic's.








I also added an extra battery to the frame rail, solar charger & panel, plus automatic charging relay that will isolate the batteries if the fridge drops the 3rd battery too low so I can always start the van.

Voltage monitors, solar charger & fuse box. Voltage monitors are cheap cigarette style ones with the cigarette plug removed and hardwired.


Solar panel on the roof rack.


Updated with pic's of the release mechanism.

 
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LandyAndy

Adventurer
Nice build... great idea about using the seat latch....

So, I'll steal....erm... borrow it for mine.... what make was it off ?

Cheers,
Andy
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
A+! :clapsmile

What kind of truck is that?

That's a motorcycle seat latch? No wonder the big bikes are so heavy! :Wow1:
 

Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
Thanks.

Seat latch's are from a KTM 950 Super Enduro (part# 63007050044), only because that was the cheapest option, and I happen to steal one from my bike for mock-up.:) Many European bikes use the exact same latches, and Japanese very similar.

Van is a Ford E350 4x4 diesel. Front's been done with 4 captains chairs and a bench seat / fold out bed. Then the partition behind the bed to block off the rear storage is what you see in the pic's in my last post.
 
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Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
That's a motorcycle seat latch? No wonder the big bikes are so heavy! :Wow1:
Yup...:)
Under the seat is the only form of lockable storage on many bikes and also the easiest way to hotwire a bike (fusebox under the seat, generally just jump 3 points on the box). So seat catches on road legal bikes are usually very substantial, but it's shame the plastic seat pan the male pin mounts to isn't.:sombrero:
 

LandyAndy

Adventurer
Found the parts manual on-line, the pin's not shown as a spare.... guess it's welded to the seat. Any change of posting a sketch so I can one turned up whilst I wait for the catch to arrive.

Thx....
 
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Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
Is that part # for both the catch & pin or just the catch ?

Thx....
Just the catch & cable (that you'll probably have to extend.) I machined up my own pins as the one for that particular make/model are molded into the seat.

For the cable, bicycle brake cables are cheap and the same size, then you can use something like this if you are using two catches to combine the cables into 1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Thro...4791127QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
Found the parts manual on-line, the pin's not shown as a spare.... guess it's welded to the seat. Any change of posting a sketch so I can one turned up whilst I wait for the catch to arrive.

Thx....
Here you go.
Rather that posting the dimensions of what I machined, I'll give you the actual seat pin.
Imagine the pin in the pic's below, but with a M6 thread on the end rather than bonded into plastic.







This is the full height, just bad camera angle makes it look like it's not.




For a tight fit and so I can adjust the shelf position, I machines a stop for the catch to get caught on. So, along the length, below are the diameters, the length of each you can see from the pic's.
M6 thread | 12mm stop | 7mm catch grove | 12mm pin head, tapered to point.

Let me know if you need any more info.
 

LandyAndy

Adventurer
Thanks..... that'll do just fine. Prob will just put one on mine as the fridge is not as large as yours (MT45). Just waiting for my extra slides to arrive now for the tray table that'll be mounted under & onto the fridge slide.

Catch is 2 weeks away as local KTM dealer doesn't have stock..... time to get the OBA installed whilst I wait.
 
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Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
Thanks..... that'll do just fine. Prob will just put one on mine as the fridge is not as large as yours (MT45). Just waiting for my extra slides to arrive now for the tray table that'll be mounted under & onto the fridge slide.

Catch is 2 weeks away as local KTM dealer doesn't have stock..... time to get the OBA installed whilst I wait.
Cool. I actually don't think it needs 2 catches, especially if you machine the pin from steel rather than ally. My previous experience with draw sliders is with the 100lbs capacity ones from Homedepot. They have so much slop in them, that when I mocked this up, I decided to use 2 catches. 1 on each side, to remove the slop from the sliders and stop everything moving around even when closed, as a single catch would not do this. But the sliders I used are / or seem to be very high quality and have zero slop in them, so a single catch would have worked.
 

LandyAndy

Adventurer
My slides are the 500lb Accuride commercial grade ones, virtually no slop & very robust. Once done the tray table will lock out and you can then slide it & the fridge in & out whilst prepping food. I think a simple pull knob for the latch release will work best... esp for the wife :victory:
 

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