AWOL Around Australia...

[Saint Nick]

By now we had covered most of the distance we needed to, and could spend the next week or so exploring this area and slowly make our way to Coffs.

So we headed due east. Resupplying at the horse focused town of Scone.

Scone, tourist information.

Before heading out and then up, to the Barrington Tops wilderness area.

Wild fennel grew in abundance by the roadside. I tried digging up a bulb, but it looked pretty much inedible. So I just harvested some fronds to add an extra flavour to our food.

This is the second Land Rover crazy house I've seen with a small Toyota as back up. You can imagine the conversation/s that lead up to this point!

The road in is straightforward enough, until you get to the climb up to ‘the Tops’ . Narrow dirt, with the edge of the road again being the edge. I suffer from vertigo, a hangover from having Minieres Disease, so I’m more affected by such things, but anyway, I was glad when we got to the top.

Wild dogs, dingoes and foxes are not tolerated by the farmers around here. There was also a poison baiting program going on in the National Park and the State Forest - in fact in pretty much every government managed area of NSW we saw the same signs. Must be a big problem.

However the campsite was worth the testing road up.

Unbeknownst to me, I managed to pick up a leach through my sandals down by the creek. Only noticed by N once it was full of my blood and crawling across the rug. Thoroughly grossed her out!

The first of a few meals garnished with fennel fronds!

We were camped here with one other guy, and his dog. Toyota FJ Cruiser, roof top tent, awning. All good stuff - ie; he wasn’t a hobo. We waved at each other as we drove in and out. He didn’t make any more effort to engage, which suited me fine, he also didn’t appear to go anywhere during the three odd days we were there. Not judging, just noting all sorts of people do this, it actually made a nice change from some of the **************** conversations you have in more crowded areas (I am a grump).

Much as I would have liked to just chill in the forest today, I knew today was the day our house sale was supposed to be completing. When I bought that house, the then (somewhat mad) vendor had made themselves unavailable on completion day, resulting in me having to pay for something they should have done, to get it settled. If you’ve bought a house, your first, you’ll know how keen you are to get it just done and finished. Anyway, I didn’t want to be that guy, so we drove to find some service so I could at least check-in with emails and let the conveyancer know I was available if required. That drive ended up being the best part of two hour to the nearest town on Gloucester.

Full English. No point doing anything on an empty stomach.

Good views on the way down.

Anyway, all went through ok (‘a few last minute hiccups...’ somehow you get the feeling that’s always the case) we killed time in Gloucester whilst waiting for the call.

We dropped into the tourist information and picked up some good leaflets (told you I’m getting old) and were just utilising their large map when the lady in there asked us how we’d heard about them? We hadn’t, and what we were doing in the area - making our way up to Coffs for the WRC - which she knew nothing about. She then tried to advise us on a route between here and there, when it became apparent she was just guessing on where she would go, I wrapped up the conversation, in the nicest possible way (I am a grump, but don’t wing it in customer service roles...).

From the leaflets - Barrington Tops is such a dense wilderness area that a plane that crashed here in 1981, has never been found. Despite multiple search attempts, the most recent being in 2013, where they expected to go into areas that ‘may not have ever been visited by man’ or words to that effect. Anyway, compelling stuff.

The other plane wreck unfortunately involved only recently Prime Minister - Malcolm Turnbull’s father (I’m thinking that the title of Prime Minister in Australia should be changed to Prime Minister For Now), the young Malcolm’s parents had split up and he was living with his father when it happened. Shame, the young Turnbull obviously inherited his father enterprising spirit. As his father was a self made man, and Malcolm did pretty well for himself.

As an aside, many of these tales of aircraft crashes, the pilot always seems to have a risk taking streak about them - not something that necessarily goes well with flying, outside of combat one would think. It makes me think about my own risk vs reward ‘calculations’, some think I’m pretty out there, others think I’m way conservative. I dunno, just trying to get the best out of life, not hurt anything too much along the way, whilst not checking out too early.

So we drove back up into the mountains. It had been very hot and humid down in the town, so for once we were able to do what the guys in the US do when it gets too hot, and ‘just drive up into the mountains’.

I tried running a few local trails that afternoon, but most were closed.

Or due to dickheads with big tyres and no brain coming up when the trails were wet, according to the locals. Can’t fix stupid unfortunately.

Got my vego on for dinner that night.

Garnished with, you guessed it. Fennel fronds!

Thanks for reading my food blog!

Love the full English, inc the black pudding Even made it into the veggie meal Oh, and great pics too

Nick

 

[Rufant]

Yeah, we try to eat vego a fair bit, but I'm pretty terrible at keeping things strictly vegetarian...

 

[Rufant]

Northern New South Wales Perfection.

New South Wales, Australia.


Refreshed, we headed out. A couple of waterfalls are easily accessible from the main road. Not much in them at the moment, but still some good views.

Back on the dirt, we head up through very pretty farming country, approximately north-east.

We headed into Oxley Wild Rivers National Park (named after John Oxley, an explorer who passed through this region in 1818), hoping that the route we could see on the map actually would give us access through.

Soon after crossing into the park I noticed a ADV Moto (expedition equipped dirt biker) rider in my mirrors. I pulled over to let him and his buddy by. We saw them again briefly at the picnic area, and we pressed on ahead of them here. Luckily the trail we wanted to take was open, although a 'dry road only' well it was dry...

Not far down this trail we met more ADV riders heading towards us. At first I thought they must be different guys, then I realised they must have taken the 'No Public Access' Ranger trail out of the picnic area. Again I pulled over, this time they stopped. They were lost and wanted to know where the trail went. They were navigating using the standard navigation app on their smart phones. I asked them where they had come from, they didn't know and asked them where they wanted to go - "we'd like to get to Dorrigo, but all off-road" "almost certainly impossible" I said "just because you can see it on the map, doesn't mean it's accessible" I showed them were they were, explained that the 'GPS' on their smart phones will not work very well out here, and recommended they follow this trail back to the highway "yeah, we're pretty low on fuel as we didn't fill our sub tanks right up at the last fuel stop". They definitely had enough gear to look like they should know what they were doing, but clearly not much experience of navigating in the bush.

I normally have utmost respect for my two-wheeled brothers and sisters, but these guys plus some others that I nearly hit the next day as I (slowly) went round I blind dirt road corner, only to find them coming the other way on my side of the road so they could take a better 'line' into the bend to carry more speed... Would have ruined everyones day if I had been trucking along like a lot of the locals do round these parts. Anyway, it's not like the moto guys have the monopoly on dickheads.

From here, we were alone. Pretty trails.

This trail clearly doesn't get much use. A bit of trail clearing necessary with the parang (machete).

A few kms from the end of the trail, the rain started.

When the rain comes it doesn't muck about. Creek crossings we had been doing dry all day suddenly had half a metre of water in them.

Luckily the heavy canopy kept the track surface from getting too greasy before we got down the last few hills. I made sure we didn't rush, but I was glad when the trail became flatter and a bit more substantial. I didn't fancy having 3 tonne of Land Cruiser (not to mention our current home) sliding down a muddy slope.

The rain continued to be on and off for there rest of the day. Sporadic, but heavy when it did come. We popped out on the other side of the range, more like proper rainforest on this side. The clouds must break here coming in from the coast and dump most of the rain on this side.

I had originally planned to push through on minor tracks, but as is so often when you are travelling like this you just have to modify the plan to suit what it in front of your eyes. So new headed for a couple of campsites on the edge of the National Park. We were a fair way from any major towns, and they were 4x4 access only, so they would surely be mostly empty? Wrong, both were busy, with people who looked like they may have been there sometime... The one that had some space also had an infestation of sandflies. Time for a rethink.

We headed to the small hamlet of Rolands Plains, where it seemed for a small fee you could camp on the reserve. We called the number on the gate on arrival, and spoke to Neil. After a small pantomime of what we needed (hot showers - no, power - no) Neil argued himself down to charging us $10 for the night. We had been happy to pay the original 'premium' rate of $15, but anyway. By that stage we were just looking for somewhere to pitch the tent. Now Neil couldn't come for the money himself but please go and see Kym, who lived in the yellow house across the street. Although not today, today is Kym's church day. He will be available in the morning. Hello, country Australia!

By some miracle (well it was church day), despite this toing and froing we managed to get the tent and flysheet up before the next downpour hit, which we could literally see coming.

Rain streams off the flysheet.

Then more sunshine.

Down she goes, goodnight!

 

[Rufant]

Despite more heavy rain in the night we awoke to a fine sunny morning. We dried out our gear, tried to raise Kym with no luck. So left our $10 and a note in his mailbox.

We took the backroads (of course) through to the town of Kempsey that morning.

RMB - Roadside Mail Box.

Wild Brumbies!

At this point, we were still on the school bus route!

We then took a more minor trail through a small National Park, over the sketchiest bridge of the trip to date. Clogged with mud, and nothing to stop you sliding off either side to the 4m drops.

Yeah, don't bring a normal car down here.

More trail clearing with the Parang.

As we got nearer Kempsey, we start to see properties in the bush. Looking very 'Breaking Bad' initially, with car wrecks and junk strewn around them. Not sure how many taxes are paid out here... As we get nearer town the properties neaten up till you get some properly nice looking places.

At Kempsey, whilst I grabbed a few things for the next few days. N and the dogs frolicked around in the spring petals.

Stocked up, we stopped for fuel. Once of those few servos left where they come out to pump the fuel for you, quaint but unnecessary in my opinion, especially when you have to explain about the main tank and the sub tank - just let me do it like everywhere else... Anyway, despite being a grumpy old man I managed to have conversation with said servo attendant. We chatted about the the town "yeah, there are a few rough types around here" he said, unprompted. I explained about the houses we had seen coming out of the bush "yeah, we don't see much of those people" yeah, I bet.

Time to get going.

More stunning scenery on the road out of Kempsey, this road was following the Macleay River, as it would all the way to our campsite that night at George’s Creek. The wide bitumen road, became dirt and slowly started getting narrower, then much more narrower still.

Tyre marks show everyone giving the edge a wide berth.

Pretty good road though.

A great drive, no doubt helped by the time of year (spring) and only tempered by some kamikaze drivers and riders coming in the other direction. Maybe I’m overly cautious, maybe I’m just getting old - although based on the evidence of this road, age and not being a dickhead, don’t seem to have any correlation. /rant

We got into camp nice and early. Only four other vehicles (as you can’t get a caravan in there, thankfully!) and plenty of space so everyone had there own area. With plenty of time in hand I cooked up the local steaks we had got back at the butcher in Walcha.

One burner life.

Steak and pasta. Scotch fillet, anchovy pasta, asparagus, tomato and southern Italian pecorino (Casa Madaio Canestrato - sheeps milk).

 

[Rufant]

Curious cow.

The people before us at this campsite were lazy in putting out their campfire. This cow was drawn to sticking its nose in the still hot coals...?

The cows were constant companions, and could be heard munching around the tent all night.

Early start, after going to bed super early last night. Driving tracks, trails and tight cliffside roads all day certainly takes its toll.

"I'm just going down there to take some photos of the Land Cruiser babe" "Of course you are darling..."

A couple of UTV's, dogs, horses and farmers crossed the river here this morning. Heading out for the muster. Looked like a pretty idyllic way to start your work day. I'm sure not all their days are like that though.

We pushed on, heading north west.

 

[Rufant]

Nymboida, Coffs Harbour and the WRC!

New South Wales. Australia.

N had been helping me navigate, as the roads required too much concentration to be constantly looking at the GPS. So she had plotted an almost all dirt route (to my surprise!) to our next intended destination, camping on the Boyd River in the Nymboida area.

This meant taking some, errrm, minor tracks.

Stopping at this lookout, we had a good chat with a forestry worker who was having his lunch.

He gave us a few good things to check out in the area we were camping.

The rest of the drive was on fairly easy forest roads. Arriving at camp it was everything you can wish for in these things. As pretty as last nights but this one was all to ourselves. We would stay here two nights, we probably would have stayed longer if there wasn’t a Rally to check out. Anyway, one to remember if we’re ever back this way.

We soon noticed here was a community of the vibrant Rainbow Bee Eaters we had caught so many fleeting glimpses of in the Red Centre. Even at this proximity still bloody hard to photograph, but I gave it a good shot (just the standard zoom lens on our Sony mirrorless - I keep saying to N I need an eight grand lens to make it all so easy...).

I took a drive, through the hole in the rock.

I remember driving through one of these with the Range Rover club, this wasn’t quite what I remembered but it must be it, how many of these could there be? I checked out the ruins of the town and the graveyard. Our friendly Forestry dude had said that at the turn of the century there was 5000 people living here, now there are none. Although we did see some nice properties on the drive out.

He also told me about an old gold mine, I tried to find it but no luck. I just had his description and trying to memorise what he showed me on his forestry map, which as you can imagine was quite differently detailed to what I had to work with.

I like these sentiments.

I started to climb the hill behind the cemetery, which he had also given me the location of, and said the road goes 'all the way round'. It was pretty steep.

Enough to have to walk sections at a time. I got to a point where you could turn around and decided enough was enough, in the trees you have no way of knowing how much further it goes up. I’d done enough steep hill climbs lately...

Cooked up some snags that night.

Pork sausages. Mustard and curry creamed leeks. Cauliflower pangrattato.

 

[Rufant]

We had a new friend come pack up the next day.

I escorted it away from the camp with our dustpan and brush. Guess what came running around the bagged up OzTent as a loaded it back into car! I escorted it away, again (I’d probably be keen to stay hidden during the daytime too, with all those birds around).

We made our way to the town of Grafton, and somehow managed to hit rush hour!

Deciding we could probably get the few things we needed without going into the main town we took a few side streets till we found South Grafton (the main part of the town being on the northern side of the Clarence River). South Grafton actually turned out to be pretty cool, part hipster, part ageing hippie and part rough and ready.

We got some delicious hipster food and then drove the hour or so’s drive that would take us down to Coffs Harbour.

We would be in Coffs for the next five days. We had to repair a couple of zips on the OzTent, and replace the OzTent table that was dying - we had only had that table a couple of years and were never very impressed with it. It was too low, there was nothing clever about it and in terms of quality, you would have thought a different company made it compared to the tent and the chairs we have - maybe it is a different company these days, just has the same name.

Ok, the burn mark is all me. The trangia in high wind. However I did the same thing to my last table, it didn't kill that one.

Underside.

These external rivets started to shed themselves early on. Anything on the outside is always going to cop a hiding. Poor design and engineering.

However we were mainly here so I could spectate the final round if the World Rally Championship. The weather wasn't really playing ball for taking good photos, but you've got top take some snap shots at an event like this, right?

Neuville.

Ogier.

Tanak.

Aero much?

Tommi!

Ooops.

More oooops.

A few quids worth there.

I can’t say this was the best event I’ve been to as a spectator. However it was great to see the current WRC machines close up and in action.

Unfortunately during those five days we also said goodbye to our little dog Alby. He was very old, and hadn’t been well for a while. We always said once his quality of life got to the point he couldn’t do the things he loves, plus the fact he wasn’t going to bounce back this time, meant the time was right. He had a pretty amazing life for any dog, let alone 1.4kg dripping wet, and I would like to think the last few weeks would have been some of the best.

Alby is the one with his tongue out, of course!

Coffs Harbour itself is a weird place. (large) Part retirement village, still a working fishing port, plenty of daggy resorts and motels. I dunno, it just seemed a town lacking in character. We never got to a bit and went ‘ok, this is cool’. However, we did have some fantastic Ethiopian street food, so it wasn’t all mediocre!

So being in one spot for five nights, meant we got stuff done, had some conversations with actual other humans. Had a general re-set and re-think about where to from here.

We were originally planning to head south down the coast. However looking at the map and the lack of free camping, I felt like we were probably going to come across lots of similar places to Coffs. So as usual when the original plan doesn’t appeal to me I just go back to the drawing board - or usually some paper maps. So we decided to head a little bit further north first, and explore a bit more inland.

Thanks for reading.

https://rufant.com

https://www.instagram.com/rufant_adventures/

 

[Saint Nick]

We had a new friend come pack up the next day.

I escorted it away from the camp with our dustpan and brush. Guess what came running around the bagged up OzTent as a loaded it back into car! I escorted it away, again (I’d probably be keen to stay hidden during the daytime too, with all those birds around).

We made our way to the town of Grafton, and somehow managed to hit rush hour!

Deciding we could probably get the few things we needed without going into the main town we took a few side streets till we found South Grafton (the main part of the town being on the northern side of the Clarence River). South Grafton actually turned out to be pretty cool, part hipster, part ageing hippie and part rough and ready.

We got some delicious hipster food and then drove the hour or so’s drive that would take us down to Coffs Harbour.

We would be in Coffs for the next five days. We had to repair a couple of zips on the OzTent, and replace the OzTent table that was dying - we had only had that table a couple of years and were never very impressed with it. It was too low, there was nothing clever about it and in terms of quality, you would have thought a different company made it compared to the tent and the chairs we have - maybe it is a different company these days, just has the same name.

Ok, the burn mark is all me. The trangia in high wind. However I did the same thing to my last table, it didn't kill that one.

Underside.

These external rivets started to shed themselves early on. Anything on the outside is always going to cop a hiding. Poor design and engineering.

However we were mainly here so I could spectate the final round if the World Rally Championship. The weather wasn't really playing ball for taking good photos, but you've got top take some snap shots at an event like this, right?

Neuville.

Ogier.

Tanak.

Aero much?

Tommi!

Ooops.

More oooops.

A few quids worth there.

I can’t say this was the best event I’ve been to as a spectator. However it was great to see the current WRC machines close up and in action.

Unfortunately during those five days we also said goodbye to our little dog Alby. He was very old, and hadn’t been well for a while. We always said once his quality of life got to the point he couldn’t do the things he loves, plus the fact he wasn’t going to bounce back this time, meant the time was right. He had a pretty amazing life for any dog, let alone 1.4kg dripping wet, and I would like to think the last few weeks would have been some of the best.

Alby is the one with his tongue out, of course!

Coffs Harbour itself is a weird place. (large) Part retirement village, still a working fishing port, plenty of daggy resorts and motels. I dunno, it just seemed a town lacking in character. We never got to a bit and went ‘ok, this is cool’. However, we did have some fantastic Ethiopian street food, so it wasn’t all mediocre!

So being in one spot for five nights, meant we got stuff done, had some conversations with actual other humans. Had a general re-set and re-think about where to from here.

We were originally planning to head south down the coast. However looking at the map and the lack of free camping, I felt like we were probably going to come across lots of similar places to Coffs. So as usual when the original plan doesn’t appeal to me I just go back to the drawing board - or usually some paper maps. So we decided to head a little bit further north first, and explore a bit more inland.

Thanks for reading.

https://rufant.com

https://www.instagram.com/rufant_adventures/

You do dine well, and the WRC to boot More great pics - awesome country and wildlife. Sorry to hear about your little fella, and I've no doubt his last few weeks would have been some of the best

Nick

 

[Cornered]

RIP little Alby.

Did you name him for Alby Mangels?

 

[Rufant]

You do dine well, and the WRC to boot More great pics - awesome country and wildlife. Sorry to hear about your little fella, and I've no doubt his last few weeks would have been some of the best

Nick

Thanks mate

 

[Rufant]

RIP little Alby.

Did you name him for Alby Mangels?

We did!

Or at least No 1 girlfriend did. She was a big Alby Mangles fan from back in the day.

 

[Rufant]

Northward Wanderings.

New South Wales, Australia.

We took the Solitary Islands Way, past this impressive Sikh Temple.

Then hit some dirt roads through the forests heading north.

Passing at one point a couple of ‘P plate’ trucks full of young lads - ah, it is ‘schoolies week’ the national celebration for kids who have finished high school.

We went round!

Snake!

At the small seaside community of Minnie Waters I saw a National Parks sign for Sandon Village - 10km. This track wasn’t on my map, but it was where we wanted to go, great let’s take it. 10km up the beach, lovely. Tyres down and off we went.

We got to Sandon Village, at least part of it. Only to find it was separated from the other part, the part with the road north, by a small but nevertheless significant piece of ocean.

Oh, well there’s nothing for it but to follow in our own wheel tracks and scoot back down the beach.

After all of these shenanigans time is getting on, so we trundle to the village of Wooli and book into ‘camping hell’ caravan park - all the bush sites being full what with it being school holidays - we are definitely going to have to rethink this east coast touring...

Arrrggghhh!

Bloody expensive too, to add insult to injury.

In the end the ‘caravan park’ in Wooli turned out to basically be a retirement community, just without the official title. This got us thinking and talking about living somewhere suchlike - the idea seems detestable to us at the moment, but who knows how you’ll think in 20 or 30 years time, that’s as long as I’ve been an ‘adult’... It was cute to see all the little homes, gardens and interactions - sundowners every night, morning tea scones.

However it did get us thinking about living down some dirt road on the coast, with a plot big enough to grow our own fruit and veggies. The ‘prescribed’ life isn’t the only way, hey?

Next morning we aired up and headed out. Back into Grafton as it happens. To sort out some extra phone data, as we were chewing through it and it’s cheap nowadays. Then back to the same hipster cafe for some tasty and healthy delights, to offset all the sausage rolls we (me) have knocked over lately.

We headed north, through the ‘Beef Capital’ Casino (yeah, there are A LOT of ‘Beef Capitals’ in Oz). Then onto the country town of Kyogle. I badly needed to service the Land Cruiser and camping at Kyogle Showgrounds seemed like a good place to tick that box.

I just snapped this randomly walking back from the town. So green! We're not in South Australia anymore Dorothy.

Dinner that night was Thai Crispy pork salad, a shameless ripoff of a great lunch we had at Moonee Beach, just north of Coffs Harbour. Perfect as the weather was starting to warm up.

A simple dressing of lime juice, fish sauce and brown sugar. Really the fresh herbs, crunchy vegetables and belly pork are the stars of the show.

 

[Rufant]

Next morning we awoke to a beautiful day and I cracked on with the first decent service of the Cruiser, since we left for the Red Centre.

Engine oil and filter. Air filter rotation/wash (I carry a spare). Fuel filter. Spark plugs. A good amount of time spent underneath the truck, checking bushings, trans fluid levels, greasing grease points, etc. As usual, ticking these boxes generates a few more to take care of. One bushing on the new suspension already had a small split in it, and the rear tyres were looking extremely average, and I think the engine mounts are toast. I’ll need to spend another morning, rotating the tyres and fitting the new handbrake shoes I have. I’ll keep an eye on those other issues - it was too hot and humid to want to work all day (that’s my excuse), and the rain threatened for the rest of the day.

I took a stroll around the town of Kyogle, window shopping - house prices are temptingly cheap, for a slice of basically paradise - again the old age question just rears it’s ugly head. What does one do to earn a (half) decent crust here?

The rain did eventually come in a short and very heavy burst. We bailed in the tent but we’re back outside ten minutes later. We made a few preparations, in case it was a wet pack up in the morning.

Cooked dahl. These (bloody tasty) lentil based dishes would be a staple for us. As we tried to keep part of our diet vegetarian whilst on the road. Not easy I admit.

So we settled down to watching a good movie we happened to find on You Tube (The Postcard Bandit - a movie about an Australian bank robber in the 90's. A bit before our time here, but he robbed a lot of banks in South Australia as they were an easy target!). Sometimes its nice to have a steady internet connection while camping.

However there is something about these very cheap campsites, especially close to a town. 'Semi permanent residents. Arguing. Of no fixed abode bogans, etc.' those are my notes at the time and says all you need to know really. It had served our purpose, but it was time to move on.

We awoke to a dry morning. We could see rain clouds coming and so prioritised getting the tent down and our gear away dry. Then did the right thing and took the used car parts and oil to the town waste facility.

The drive out from Kyogle to Nimbin was very pretty, again the green-ness of everything almost overwhelming for our South Australian conditioned eyes. The Nimbin rocks came into view.

We stopped at, and had a walk around the ‘alternative’ capital of Australia. Touristy of course, but it doesn’t fail to raise a smile.

We had many offers to buy weed! Just imagine the quality... Buying off the streets here. Anyway, we’re way too square for such things these days. N thought she saw a dodgy undercurrent on the streets, maybe, proper bad drugs are an issue for any country Australian town in this day and age.

From here we headed up to Border Ranges National Park. A World Heritage listed area, and a rainforest that holds clues back to Australia originally being part of Gondwana Land.

Simple enough dirt roads on the way in. The overcast conditions we had seen most of the morning now turning to actual rain, which soon became torrential. So dark at times under the canopy that we were using the spotlights to see where we were going (and also to warn any others, coming the opposite direction of our approach on these narrow rainforest tracks). Wipers going full tilt and spotties on at 11am in the morning, it was certainly feeling like an adventure!

We arrived at the first lookout to find ourselves well and truly immersed in the clouds. Despite the fact we were robbed of the traditional view, the misty ethereal feeling of standing on the edge of the ancient volcano, whilst looking out into a sea of nothingness is not one I would trade.

The worst of the rain had past, and now we were just in a misty wonderland.

The crazy growth that only a rainforest brings.

We took every trail there was to take up here. As is typical of a National Park, nothing technical or challenging, but a proper 4x4 is always reassuring overly competent when the conditions turn inclement. Gun to a knife fight and all of that.

The sun did finally come out, as we were making our way down the western slopes of the ranges. Bathing everything in an almost eye burningly irridescent green.

 

[Rufant]

Driving out, again through some picturesque countryside.

It was time to start thinking about camp. We had a couple of options upcoming, Woodenbong first, a bit crowded and a few too many people of no fixed abode, again. We pushed on to Urbenville. To have the ‘forestry park’ camp all to ourselves, why so quiet for this free camp, even though the Woodenbong one was from only from $5 a night? No signage for starters, plus only toilets, no water, no showers. Anyway, we weren’t complaining. Any place to yourselves is worth its weight in gold in this part of the country - or anywhere really.

Drying out the recently washed air filter.

Here it was time to finish the truck maintenance, Pt 2. This was actually an even better spot, still flat but with so many trees the shade cover was awesome. During the previous inspection a couple of days ago I had noticed the rear tyres were significantly more worn than the fronts. Not more worn in terms of tread depth, just more hammered...

Front.

Rear.

That’s the result of shouldering the brunt of the plus 3 (metric) ton load. I imagine most of the damage was done up the Oodnadatta Track, but still, we had run some gnarly trails since then. Anyway, those bad boys needed rotating badly, even so, I think I’ll still be up for a new set of tyres before we go to Tasmania. So luckily I carry a few jacks, so I could rotate the tyres by myself. While I was at it I fitted the new handbrake shoes I had ordered in at Coffs Harbour Toyota, at despite feeling good on the flat our handbrake was not holding on the really steep hills. My mechanic mate Ashley thinks new shoes might still not be enough, and so there is a mod we can do if they don’t work. Anyway, I haven’t had a chance to really test them out, but they already feel way better then the old shoes.

So those jobs done we spent a lazy day in and around Urbenville. N made a pagan offering, to scare off the locals (the things you do when you don't have a job to go to...)

I made beef curry.

We took the picturesque bitumen roads out before once again spearing off onto a random dirt road that too, us up into the local hills.

A decent climb for about an hour led us to this open swampy plateau.

Then again into big tree country.

We took the track out to the falls, our expectations low as none of this area was publicised. We found a cool little pool on the way.

 

[Rufant]

Bit of a slope getting down to the falls, but absolutely worth it.

Not much flow this time of year, but the big trees brought down shows how large it can get. Anyway just a cool spot to find.

The wind had been right up all day. In fact for the last few days many areas of the country had been experiencing gale force conditions. Hidden amongst the mountains we had been somewhat sheltered from it, but trying to take this track out, we got our serve.

Too much for the parang (machete) this one. We deliberated about whether to clear the track or back track. N was in favour of dragging/cutting the tree out of the way, but there was a good couple of hours work here to do that. Plus the wind was still right up, so there was danger not just from falling foliage, but never discount the fire risk in Oz.. There was potentially another route out (at least on the map) and if not there was maybe a 30 minute back track.

We tried the alternative route. This sign, not a problem.

Unfortunately a familiar outcome halfway down the track.

So round we went, glad there were no similar blockages around this route, that would have meant several hours of detour.

Anyway, this way out wasn’t too bad.

New growth on the eucalypts.

We passed couple of vehicles on the way in and alerted them to the issues up ahead.

Now we were back onto familiar territory. When I say familiar, I mean we were here about 12 years ago. Coming down to this area was one of the first trips we did in our old Range Rover Classic. We were living in Brisbane at the time and my Dad happened to be visiting from the UK.

So I knew what was in store at Bald Rock, but still worth the detour.

Whilst I climbed the monolith, I looked back to where we had come from and could watch a bushfire get going in live time. Later I looked at the fire map, it wasn't exactly where we had been, but still sobering enough.

Now onto the town of Stanthorpe, Queensland. First time I had been back in this state since I was in the Army. Time to find a camp.