BFG T/A KO2 in 275/55/20 on LR4

#31
Hi shedlock,
One of the things that we implemented in the IIDTool is a raising/lowering procedure that does not require a full calibration with altered measurements to do an electronic lift. It is as simple as entering the menu, selecting the desired lift (or drop for the bling crowd) and exiting the menu. See video 5 on our demo page: https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/support/medias/ . This is shown using the vehicle's integrated info display and cruise control switches (hence the name Integrated Interface Diagnostic Tool), but with the IIDTool BT you have the option of an iOS/Android app or the integrated display/controls. It literally takes less than a minute and is much quicker and easier (and less dirty) than installing rods.

Sorry to jump in on your conversation. I just thought I could shed a little light on the discussion.

No apology needed, Steve! Thanks for the info.! Sounds like GAP is the best way to go. I like the idea of the BT connectivity — I have a cheap Chinese OBD reader at the moment; it’s handy for some things (though the Carsoft tool has far more usable features), but is limited in its functionality.

Lowering the vehicle a bit for long highway drives is something that is very appealing to me. Can I PM you for more details?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#33
That is an interesting thought. I am unsure how much extra fuel I will lose from the larger tyres (I am moving from a 30" to a 32"). I didn't think 20mm would make such a difference in the alignment -- some LR3s drop that when over 80mph as a factory setting!

I think I will stick with the Falken Wildpeak, as the tyre is 10lbs a corner lighter than the KO2.
 
#34
Sure, 275/55/R20 fits, even in a mud terrain.
View attachment 302028
Thumbing on an old thread/comment, but just to let everyone know I’m currently running a 275/55r20 Duratrac with no rubbing issues on OEM Stormer wheels, no spacers. My Duratracs are actually due for replacement. I’m debating between 275/55 KO2’s(31.9”) or going 275/55 Toyo MT(32.1”). The owner of the white LR4 w/ MT’s stated he used a 3/4” spacer to fit them. I’m taking a guess that the upper control arm rubs on the sidewall tread blocks if not using a spacer? I’d rather avoid spacers as I know they’re harsh on wheel bearings. Anyone have insight on the MT?
 
#35
That is an interesting thought. I am unsure how much extra fuel I will lose from the larger tyres (I am moving from a 30" to a 32"). I didn't think 20mm would make such a difference in the alignment -- some LR3s drop that when over 80mph as a factory setting!
Just to review, I went with the KO2s (a decision led largely by their 31.8" diameter). I ride at the stock height, though the driver’s front tyre brushes occasionally on the front bumper to wheel arch liner mounting screw. I have on the RRS rims which provide the same track as the original rims (though the 1/2" width increase is distributed by a 1/4" offset decrease). In my opinion, a further decrease of 1/2"-1" would remove the rubbing on that screw altogether. Of interest is the fact that there is no rubbing on the frame horn or UCA. I did move the bumper on the adjustment screws by 3/4" forwards and cut 1 1/2" off the lip at the bottom of the bumper where the wheel arch liner meets it. I pushed the wheel arch forward by about 2" below the headlamp assembly -- which was made difficult by the washer fluid bottle. Now this mod has been made, no fouling of the wheelarch liner occurs save the screw that sits proud of the wheelarch liner at about 12 minutes to the hour. On the trail, there is some slight rubbing at stock height from the front due to articulation. The rubbing is so slight that I cannot see indications of the rubbing when back on firm ground. The rubbing is not present at off-road height.

I had the alignment done at stock height (prior to that, there was no rubbing at all!); raising the vehicle to plus 1" shifted the readings to a position still within tolerance. Furthermore (though I probably won't use it) a 1/2" lower from stock height to 'highway' position also forces the alignment to alter -- though the deviation remains within tolerance. In other words, if you align the vehicle in the centre of tolerances at stock height, the vehicle is still within tolerance with both a 1" lift and a 1/2" lower. However, these are the extremes of tolerance.

I should also report a 1mpg decrease in fuel consumption on highway use; in the city, consumption is roughly the same but bordering on a slight increase. I have no idea how the KO2s work off-road or in snow yet, but they are quieter on road. Indeed, the steering is much lighter than with the Duratracs. However, despite having 33psi front and 41 rear, the vehicle is like riding on rails and is very jarring in a way that the Duratracs weren't. I am not certain if I will not take them back after my 30 day trial and exchange them for Duratracs.


Here are a few photos for the madding crowd -- the thumbnail shows vehicle at an un-settled access height.

IMG_8251.jpg

IMG_8214.jpg

IMG_8181.jpg
 

Attachments

Last edited:
#36
My Duratracs are actually due for replacement. I'm debating between 275/55 KO2's(31.9”) or going 275/55 Toyo MT(32.1”). The owner of the white LR4 w/ MT's stated he used a 3/4” spacer to fit them. I'm taking a guess that the upper control arm rubs on the sidewall tread blocks if not using a spacer? I'd rather avoid spacers as I know they're harsh on wheel bearings. Anyone have insight on the MT?
I cant help you with the spacer story, but my RRS rims have an offset of +47 and are 8 1/2" wide. I run 275/55/20 KO2s on an LR3, and there is no rubbing (and no chance of rubbing) on the UCA -- there is about 3/4" of room there -- I doubt the Toyo MTs would take up that much room. Also, the KO2 on an 8 1/2" rim is actually 31.8" measured diameter and, for me, that 0.1" matters as i get t tiny bit of brushing on the bumper to wheelarch liner screw on the driver's side at stock height.
 
#37
Thumbing on an old thread/comment, but just to let everyone know I'm currently running a 275/55r20 Duratrac with no rubbing issues on OEM Stormer wheels, no spacers. My Duratracs are actually due for replacement. I'm debating between 275/55 KO2's(31.9”) or going 275/55 Toyo MT(32.1”). The owner of the white LR4 w/ MT's stated he used a 3/4” spacer to fit them. I'm taking a guess that the upper control arm rubs on the sidewall tread blocks if not using a spacer? I'd rather avoid spacers as I know they're harsh on wheel bearings. Anyone have insight on the MT?
I have 3/4 spacers installed and can confirm the abuse on the driveline. Avoid them if you can but sometimes we need them if we chose a specific set up. I'll be removing mine for the 17” wheel install.

Just my opinion, go BFG and you'll never regret it. I have been on Toyo and Nitto and they just don't compare all around to BFG.

I have Nitto on my 18” now and can't wait to get BFG on them now that my front suspension is rebuilt. They wear horrible and cup badly IMO. great on the road, soft on the trail and the sidewalls are weak (three punctures).

Toyo MT I hear is a good tire so I can't say much about it. I did have the AT years back on a full size and they were okay for daily use but didn't perform like my BFG did off the tarmac. I do know that the reviews for the BFG KM2 are much better and proven. Cost of course is a factor for BFG but I figure after all the puncture problems on other brands, BFGs pay for themselves in confidence and reliability.

My 17” MT will be BFGs for sure.

Hope that helps.
 
#38
Toyo MT I hear is a good tire so I can't say much about it. I did have the AT years back on a full size and they were okay for daily use but didn't perform like my BFG did off the tarmac. I do know that the reviews for the BFG KM2 are much better and proven. Cost of course is a factor for BFG but I figure after all the puncture problems on other brands, BFGs pay for themselves in confidence and reliability.

My 17” MT will be BFGs for sure.

Hope that helps.
Eric I have KM2's. Good off road, very durable. Noisy on road. Joe has the toyos, likes them a lot. Good pattern, very grippy. They are quieter I think. I will likely get KM2s again just for the durability, and I hate the look of the toyos. I am biased.

On topic for the thread. I see zero point on every couple days seeing threads "OHO whats the absolute widest tire I can put on my car?" Come on people. Put a 255 75 on it and call it a day. Come over to the pizza cutter side.
 
#39
Eric I have KM2's. Good off road, very durable. Noisy on road. Joe has the toyos, likes them a lot. Good pattern, very grippy. They are quieter I think. I will likely get KM2s again just for the durability, and I hate the look of the toyos. I am biased.

On topic for the thread. I see zero point on every couple days seeing threads "OHO whats the absolute widest tire I can put on my car?" Come on people. Put a 255 75 on it and call it a day. Come over to the pizza cutter side.
Amen to that. I am going as tall and skinny as I can. Right now I think I’m limited to 265 because of the load rating for the 17”. If I can skinnier I will but don’t want to start dealing with rubbing/binding issues. The 265/70r17 is a 31.7 and with the KM2 large sideall lugs, I do not want to go any wider or taller for that matter.
 
#40
I cant help you with the spacer story, but my RRS rims have an offset of +47 and are 8 1/2" wide. I run 275/55/20 KO2s on an LR3, and there is no rubbing (and no chance of rubbing) on the UCA -- there is about 3/4" of room there -- I doubt the Toyo MTs would take up that much room. Also, the KO2 on an 8 1/2" rim is actually 31.8" measured diameter and, for me, that 0.1" matters as i get t tiny bit of brushing on the bumper to wheelarch liner screw on the driver's side at stock height.
I have 3/4 spacers installed and can confirm the abuse on the driveline. Avoid them if you can but sometimes we need them if we chose a specific set up. I’ll be removing mine for the 17” wheel install.

Just my opinion, go BFG and you’ll never regret it. I have been on Toyo and Nitto and they just don’t compare all around to BFG.

I have Nitto on my 18” now and can’t wait to get BFG on them now that my front suspension is rebuilt. They wear horrible and cup badly IMO. great on the road, soft on the trail and the sidewalls are weak (three punctures).

Toyo MT I hear is a good tire so I can’t say much about it. I did have the AT years back on a full size and they were okay for daily use but didn’t perform like my BFG did off the tarmac. I do know that the reviews for the BFG KM2 are much better and proven. Cost of course is a factor for BFG but I figure after all the puncture problems on other brands, BFGs pay for themselves in confidence and reliability.

My 17” MT will be BFGs for sure.

Hope that helps.
Thanks guys! Late response, but after reading your thoughts and experiences as well as reviews on YouTube and several tire pages I’ve ordered a set of 275/55r20 KO2’s. Got them local, $1020 out the door mounted and balanced w/ my TPMS swapped over.

As stated I was thinking of going Toyo route, but I measured and there would be zero chance of them fitting without at least 3/4” spacers. My Stormer wheels have ET53(pulled them of the truck to clean and read info). The Duratracs were VERY close to the control arm. The section width of the KO2 is slightly smaller than the MT, and slightly smaller in diameter which will allow fitment without issue.

I found another LR4 owner with the same size on his; only had “minor” rub on frame horn at full lock. I too experienced this with my Duratracs when they were new. It wasn’t anything dangerous so to speak.

As much as I wanted to go to 18” Compo’s, I didn’t want to fork out $1350 plus another $1k or so for tires. My rack is on the way and I just installed Voyager sliders and GMRS radio.

I’ll post pics once fitted this week.
 
#42
I’m new to Expedition Portal. I’ve been a member of LandRoverWorld/Only since 2010. Haven’t yet figured out how to post pics onto threads yet?
 
#43
I’m new to Expedition Portal. I’ve been a member of LandRoverWorld/Only since 2010. Haven’t yet figured out how to post pics onto threads yet?
Welcome to the Forum! I’m a one year or so newb myself but love the site. Maybe longer but who’s counting.

Check the thread search and search for posting pics and starting a thread. If you can’t figure it out, PM me or another member and we can walk you through it.

Cheers.
 
Top