Black Series HQ Tips, Tricks, and Learning.....

Bikepals

New member
The thermostat is not in the best place. It is right above the heater, and that results in either you having to set the thermostat to its highest setting, and that might not be enough, and/or the thermostat frequently cycling the heater on and off. Which is not efficient in actually heating up the trailer. So I did two things. I upgraded to a simple digital thermostat. A Honeywell TH1100DV ($32 on Amazon) and move it away from the heater. See pictures. The result is so much better!

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I have some questions about your thermostat project. Where exactly is the propane furnace and can you get to it from the inside or outside of the trailer? If you can get to the furnace you could disconnect the existing thermostat wire and make a new wire that could be routed through the floor and up into the battery compartment. I already have a wire routed through the floor of the battery compartment to the front of the trailer for the refrigerator so I would only have to drill one hole near the propane furnace and use the existing hole in the battery compartment. Then the wire could be fished up behind the bench seat. At least on the 2020 model I am told by the technician there is a cable management system under the trailer to route wires. He even showed me a bag of wire grommets (for routing through the floor) Black Series gives you when you buy the trailer. Do you think this might work? I am going to use this same method when I run the 12v for the composting toilet (it needs 12v for the fan on the toilet).

I also like your table project. Besides the small refrigerator we also didn’t like how cramped the table makes you legs and feet. I was trying to figure out how to change the table and you have already given me the solution. Thanks for the good ideas!
 

HQ15fan

Member
I have some questions about your thermostat project. Where exactly is the propane furnace and can you get to it from the inside or outside of the trailer? If you can get to the furnace you could disconnect the existing thermostat wire and make a new wire that could be routed through the floor and up into the battery compartment.
The reason I didnt do that is because my whole underside has the winter package from RVoA, meaning it is all insulation foam. The thermostat is in the wall, above the furnace. The furnace is under the bed. There is an access panel under the mattress so you can get to about 2/3rds of the furnace that way. The backside of the furnace is not accessible, as there is cabinetry built around it. you cannot get to it from the outside of the trailer either. I don't know exactly where the thermostat wire goes, and I'm not home so I can't look at it either atm. Sorry.

I also like your table project. Besides the small refrigerator we also didn’t like how cramped the table makes you legs and feet. I was trying to figure out how to change the table and you have already given me the solution. Thanks for the good ideas!
No problem, happy to hear others find it useful!
 

swankyabe

New member
Just wanted to say what is up from Denver CO as an HQ12 owner! Super pumped on the investment (if you can't tell from all the usage of exclamation points on my post) and can't wait to read the info on the forum. Big props to @adventr on hooking our family up with a rig that will bring awesome outdoor memories to us for years to come. Already did a weekend test at Pueblo Res and the rig stood strong on 40+ mph winds with below freezing temps! Minus a little canvas zipper noise slept like a baby, warm and snug, but definitely slide that kitchen back into storage with this kind of wind lol. Can't wait for the next trip (which might be next weekend), hopefully a little calmer weather haha, and nice to see this thread exists!

BTW, named our new acquirement "Riggie Smalls" aka "The Notorious R.I.G" aka "Rig Poppa" and we freakin love it! The "Colorado Crazy Train Convoy" "CCTC" is reppin' hard

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swankyabe

New member
Ok, here's the mod if you want more fridge space. The Dometic CCF35 fits perfectly in the front compartment. You still have room left to store other stuff too. The power distribution box at the front of the trailer has an extra hole (bottom one in the picture) you can use to tie the power of the fridge into the power line for the 50A Anderson connector. If you additionally attach the negative wire for the fridge to the frame, the power meter inside the trailer will show you the fridge power draw. Pretty neat. Make sure to put a fuse in the positive line.

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Awesome job on the cooler setup @HQ15fan ! What did you use to mount/tie it down to keep it solid? Also is the cooler model maybe a typo? Could not find the "CCF35" only the "CF35" or "CFF35"? There is a "CC" line as well lol. Based on your pics it looks like the CFF35 but want to make sure before I add this to my rig. Thanks!
 

HQ15fan

Member
Awesome job on the cooler setup @HQ15fan ! What did you use to mount/tie it down to keep it solid? Also is the cooler model maybe a typo? Could not find the "CCF35" only the "CF35" or "CFF35"? There is a "CC" line as well lol. Based on your pics it looks like the CFF35 but want to make sure before I add this to my rig. Thanks!
You are right, it was a typo. It is the CFF35 from Dometic. Fixed that in the orginal post. Thanks! If you look closely at the pictures, I used right angle brackets on the left side to prevent the fridge from bouncing up, and on the right side I attached the same brackets to the floor to keep it from sliding. Additionally, I used some nylon rope and tied the right side down. You can take the handles off the fridge, and that gives you two anchor points. I'm sure there are other ways to secure it, but so far this has worked perfectly fine. It survived the moab adventure :)
 

Bikepals

New member
I bring home my HQ15 Tuesday, and as I said before, I will make some modifications. The first will be to remove the toilet and install a Natures Head toilet. I will post pictures of my installation, mainly the venting and plumbing. My plan is to use the black tank clean out on the side of the trailer as the vent and route the hose tubing (that goes to the clean out) to the urine tank on the toilet so I don't have to dump the urine bottle. So here are some preliminary pictures of my plumbing on the Natures Head toilet. I believe this is better than any idea I have seen on Youtube. Let me know what you think. The parts are a regular sink drain, saddle drain, some 1/4 20 wing nuts and spacers. I took out the existing middle screw on the toilet and used a longer screw to attack the saddle drain. I will cut a hole in the side of the urine bottle holder to plumb it out and connect the hose from the clean out to the black tank. This hose runs from the outside to under the bathroom cabinets. I'm not sure yet how it gets connect to the black tank. We will see if this idea works later this week. I will post more pictures then.
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That is a super cool video! Well done! You didn't get stuck in that nasty looking black mud? Very impressive.

Where was this filmed?
Thank you!
It was filmed in Bogd Mountain National Park, Tuv Province, Mongolia.
I have a question from you. Would you mind sharing that how to fit cf35 dometic fridge into HQ12 and electric wiring etc. Any tutorial?
 

HQ15fan

Member
Thank you!
It was filmed in Bogd Mountain National Park, Tuv Province, Mongolia.
Really nice. The video looks a lot like the landscape you can find here in Colorado, with the pine trees. I looked on Google briefly, didn't see many roads or trails go through there?

I have a question from you. Would you mind sharing that how to fit cf35 dometic fridge into HQ12 and electric wiring etc. Any tutorial?
I showed some pictures earlier in this thread, here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/black-series-hq-tips-tricks-and-learning.203716/post-2648302

The wiring is simple. I re-used the electrical cord that came with the fridge. For a ground connection you attach the negative wire to a spot on the frame (see pictures in that post I mentioned) and you run the positive lead to the power distribution box near the hand brake. That box opens up with two screws. In there you'll find a thick red wire that goes to the Anderson pole connector, and that is your positive power source to connect to. Make sure to put a protective sleeve over the wires (again see pictures). I also added a 10A fuse inline inside the storage compartment with the fridge. As for how to attache the fridge to the storage compartment. I used L shaped brackets at the top of the fridge, to the left (see picture, they are black brackets) and at the bottom on the right of the fridge. I did not screw anything in the fridge, as I was afraid to damage something internally. So it is all friction holding it in place. Finally, I tied a strong piece of nylon cord to the attachment points of the handles of the fridge (on the right side) and tied the other end of the cord to the L shaped brackets screwed into the bottom of the storage compartment. I'm sure there are other ways to attache the fridge securely, but this worked.

Hope that helps!
 

HQ15fan

Member
Ok, next super simple mod. By default your tow vehicle will not charge your Black Series trailer batteries, as the 12V line that would do that is disconnected. But that is really simple to fix. Just open the power distribution box next to the handbrake, and you'll see a spare black wire, with (hopefully!) black insulated rubber at the end. That wire goes to the 12V pin on the 7 pin trailer connector (see picture with red arrow). So all you need to do is to connect that black wire to the 12V red wire in the distribution box, and you're done! For me that was made even simpler, as it turns out that that black wire already has a connector attached. Just had to cut off the insulation, and connect it. See the pictures. This is way easier than figuring out how to connect the grey Anderson connector to your tow vehicle.

Now, whenever you plug in your trailer to your tow vehicle, it should charge your batteries while towing.

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WOODY2

Adventurer
Ok, next super simple mod. By default your tow vehicle will not charge your Black Series trailer batteries, as the 12V line that would do that is disconnected. But that is really simple to fix. Just open the power distribution box next to the handbrake, and you'll see a spare black wire, with (hopefully!) black insulated rubber at the end. That wire goes to the 12V pin on the 7 pin trailer connector (see picture with red arrow). So all you need to do is to connect that black wire to the 12V red wire in the distribution box, and you're done! For me that was made even simpler, as it turns out that that black wire already has a connector attached. Just had to cut off the insulation, and connect it. See the pictures. This is way easier than figuring out how to connect the grey Anderson connector to your tow vehicle.

Now, whenever you plug in your trailer to your tow vehicle, it should charge your batteries while towing.

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Can this also discharge your starter battery?
 

HQ15fan

Member
Can this also discharge your starter battery?
This is the standard way any trailer battery gets charged. Yes, you can drain your car battery if your trailer battery is dead. So don't leave it connected if your car or truck isn't running.
 

Bikepals

New member
Natures Head composting toilet installation was complete the day after I brought the HQ15 home. It went much better than expected. NO holes needed to be drilled to the outside of the trailer for venting or electric. I was able to use the existing black tank clean out for the vent and the hole left from removing toilet water flush hose for the electric. I removed the shelves by the toilet to get to the black tank clean out hose. I disconnected this hose and ran it to the urine connection on the composting toiled and used the outside connection to vent the toilet. Very easy.
 

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