Black Series HQ Tips, Tricks, and Learning.....

[Bikepals]

Thanks for the reply. Glad to hear they did not delete the Anderson plug. That will save me the time of having to install one on the trailer.



You might want to check out the advantages to running a DC-DC charger, as well as the limitations you may run into charging from the small wire in the vehicle's 7 pin connector.

The main benefit I see with the DC-DC charger is DC-DC charger's ability to control the input voltage from the alternator to charge the auxiliary batteries to 100%. The DC-DC charger also uses software to apply the correct charging profile for the battery type and the battery's current state of charge.



In my opinion, there are numerous advantages to running a DC-DC charger whether you run AGM, lead acid, or Lithium Ion. I don't believe DC-DC chargers are only needed for Lithium Ion batteries.


Here's a couple links that have some relevant information regarding DC-Dc chargers:

REDARC BCDC and SBI Explained

There is a lot of "Talk" about DC to DC chargers and "Do i really need it" questions about this subject.

What is a REDARC BCDC and what does it do? (although this is a manufacture's video, it goes into how DC-DC chargers work and why they may be advantageous.)

Again, thanks for the information.

I’m sure your correct on the DC to DC charger but again you have solar on the roof charging your batteries along with the car charging so unless it is raining and very cloudy you won’t need it. My batteries are always fully charged with the solar. I would spend my money on more solar panels and a MPPT controller and I did. Have fun with your Black Series trailer.

 

[elindley01]

I've got a question to any HQ12 owners out there.... or anyone with knowledge on the subject. Do you have any issues with trailer sway?

I've been towing trailers for decades and currently pull with a SuperCrew Ford Raptor, which shouldn't have any issues with a trailer of this size and weight, but this trailer has given me some of the scariest experiences I've ever had behind a steering wheel. I've looked at anti-sway kits and weight distributing hitches to solve it, but none of the ones I've seen will work with the unique tongue on my HQ12. I'm thinking I'll have to take it to a trailer shop and have them custom fab a weight distributing hitch to work with this setup, but I can only imagine what that's going to cost....

Anyone have any other suggestions?

 

[BuckinghamBuilt]

I've got a question to any HQ12 owners out there.... or anyone with knowledge on the subject. Do you have any issues with trailer sway?

I've been towing trailers for decades and currently pull with a SuperCrew Ford Raptor, which shouldn't have any issues with a trailer of this size and weight, but this trailer has given me some of the scariest experiences I've ever had behind a steering wheel. I've looked at anti-sway kits and weight distributing hitches to solve it, but none of the ones I've seen will work with the unique tongue on my HQ12. I'm thinking I'll have to take it to a trailer shop and have them custom fab a weight distributing hitch to work with this setup, but I can only imagine what that's going to cost....

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Not sure if I can post links to Youtube here but today I was watching the RV's of America full tour video for the 2020 HQ12 and apparently the sway is a known issue with the 2019 models due to the placement of tanks (fixed for the 2020 model year).

Better yet, search for "Black Series: Equal-i-zer & Sway control hitch" on YT as that looks promising of on the highway.

I have been asking about road manners of the HQ12 model paired with a Jeep Gladiator but so far no answers (plus I'm interested in MPG).

 

[PSea]

Some pictures from our first camping trip at Bartlett Lake about an hour from our house. I’m pulling my HQ15 with a GMC Canyon AT Diesel. Wanted a midsized truck that would fit in my garage. Pulls great, got around 15 mpg on this trip.

I'm also a BS owner (dominator) in Phoenix. We should exchange contact info. Get a BS group together. ;-)

 

[Bikepals]

I'm also a BS owner (dominator) in Phoenix. We should exchange contact info. Get a BS group together. ;-)

Sounds good. I know there are others that live in the area also but are not very active on this site. A large part of my summer is planned out, about 2 months worth (I’m retired). How would you like to exchange email address without making it public.

 

[Bikepals]

Thought my mods were done but last night I ordered a Micro Air Soft Start so I can run the air conditioner With my Yamaha 2200 generator. This time I will post pictures to let everyone know how it’s done.

 

[elindley01]

Not sure if I can post links to Youtube here but today I was watching the RV's of America full tour video for the 2020 HQ12 and apparently the sway is a known issue with the 2019 models due to the placement of tanks (fixed for the 2020 model year).

Better yet, search for "Black Series: Equal-i-zer & Sway control hitch" on YT as that looks promising of on the highway.

I have been asking about road manners of the HQ12 model paired with a Jeep Gladiator but so far no answers (plus I'm interested in MPG).

EDIT: Actually, I'm on Equal-i-zer's website looking at the install instructions and theirs has adjustable mounting points unlike all the others I've seen, which just may do the trick. I'll have to give this a shot and will report back! Thanks!


Thanks for your reply! I wish I would've seen that the issue could be corrected with the 2020s. I would've ponied up a few extra bucks to not have this issue. And yeah, I've watched all of RoA's YouTube videos and saw that one also. Unfortunately, the HQ12 has an extra crossmember in the tongue, as well as the trailer jack and electrical box installed right where any weight distribution hitch would install. I'm really at a loss at how to correct the issue without completely reconfiguring the entire tongue/front frame section. I guess I'll just have to pay a good trailer shop to custom fab something for me.

 

[BuckinghamBuilt]

EDIT: Actually, I'm on Equal-i-zer's website looking at the install instructions and theirs has adjustable mounting points unlike all the others I've seen, which just may do the trick. I'll have to give this a shot and will report back! Thanks!


Thanks for your reply! I wish I would've seen that the issue could be corrected with the 2020s. I would've ponied up a few extra bucks to not have this issue. And yeah, I've watched all of RoA's YouTube videos and saw that one also. Unfortunately, the HQ12 has an extra crossmember in the tongue, as well as the trailer jack and electrical box installed right where any weight distribution hitch would install. I'm really at a loss at how to correct the issue without completely reconfiguring the entire tongue/front frame section. I guess I'll just have to pay a good trailer shop to custom fab something for me.

Based on RV of America Black Series Mod YT video (McHitch: Best OFF-ROAD TRAILER HITCH UPGRADE! Black Series McHitch Mod) I think the McHitch is your best best (Weight Distribution Hitch is optional). I'd give them a call as they can ship you one which may be cheaper than ordering from Australia.

 

[HQ15fan]

EDIT: Actually, I'm on Equal-i-zer's website looking at the install instructions and theirs has adjustable mounting points unlike all the others I've seen, which just may do the trick. I'll have to give this a shot and will report back! Thanks!


Thanks for your reply! I wish I would've seen that the issue could be corrected with the 2020s. I would've ponied up a few extra bucks to not have this issue. And yeah, I've watched all of RoA's YouTube videos and saw that one also. Unfortunately, the HQ12 has an extra crossmember in the tongue, as well as the trailer jack and electrical box installed right where any weight distribution hitch would install. I'm really at a loss at how to correct the issue without completely reconfiguring the entire tongue/front frame section. I guess I'll just have to pay a good trailer shop to custom fab something for me.

Here's your easy solution.

 

[elindley01]

Here's your easy solution.

Ok, there may be some "operator error" going on here. I have that in a box in my garage that I couldn't get configured after I welded the tab to my hitch. It wouldn't line up properly and looked like it was just not going to work on this tongue. Based upon this video, I think I was doing the install backwards. Time to revisit it tomorrow!

The guys on this forum have been invaluable to me! Thank you for all your input!

 

[elindley01]

Thanks to everyone's input regarding anti-sway options for the HQ12! I'm still working through which option I will go with, but I certainly appreciate everyone's help.

My next question (lol) is to anyone who has knowledge of the lounge/sleeping area in the HQ12. According to the manufacturer, dozens of sellers online, and RVoA's YouTube channel the "up and down table" combines with the lounge seating to convert into another sleeping area, but for the life of me we can't figure out how that's possible. Looking at the very small picture on Black Series' website that shows this feature, it appears there's a separate cushion, in addition to the two lounge seating surfaces, that is placed in the middle to complete the sleeping surface. I'm not sure what this could be. If anyone has any knowledge, please help a brotha out!

 

[Bikepals]

On the HQ15, and I believe they are all the same, there are 2 small extra cushions. Check all your storage areas. If you can’t find them call your dealer. You might want to check in with the inverter.

 

[Bikepals]

Today I installed the Micro Air Easy Start in the Dometic Heat Pump. I followed the directions online for the Dometic Family Penguin II - PLEASE DO THE SAME. My purpose in posting this is to show how this is done in the Heat Pump specific to the 2020 Black Series HQ15. I do not know if they use different units on other years or models (but I don’t think so).

NOTE I PURCHASED THE INSTALLATION KIT WITH THE EASY START. THIS MAKES IT MUCH EASIER FOR INSTALLATION. WACO CONNECTORS ARE INCLUDED - the tabs lift up, insert stripped wires and close tabs and the wires are spliced together NO CRIMPING INVOLVED.

`First step is to run the wires from the Easy Start (ES) to the electrical box. Route it through the hole with the putty (SEE PIC PUTTY) then to the hole to the electrical box. Replace putty and install new strain relief. Wire tie to secure the cables. 2) Remove wires on the Start capacitor. (SEE PIC START RUN CAPS) The red wire plus the PTCR is remove from the start cap and run cap side and discarded (SEE PIC RED PURPLE). The white wire is removed from the start cap to run cap and discarded (you do not need these wires). 3) Follow the white wire from the compressor to the RUN capacitor and remove from the run capacitor (SEE WHITE FR COMP). Remove terminal on the white wire and strip. Insert white wire and brown wire (from Easy Start) into Waco connector (SEE PIC BR+WH). 4) (SEE PIC FINAL RUN CAP) Remove the purple wire from the Start cap and move to the C terminal (white wire group) on the Run cap (THIS IS UNIQUE TO THE HEAT PUMP). NOTE: I did not remove the START CAPACITOR - it helps to hold the RUN Cap in tight. 5) Insert the White wire with Yellow connector from the ES to the white wire group “C” terminal on the Run capacitor. Insert the Orange wire with blue connector to the Red group of wires (HERM terminaly) on the Run cap. 6) (SEE PIC BLUE AND BLUE BLACK) Find the Blue wire from the compressor and cut in half. Strip the ends on both blue wire sections and insert into the WACO connector along with the Black wire from the ES. Secure the Easy start to the white foam and wire tie cables as needed and your done (SEE EASY START FINAL).

 

[HQ15fan]

Today I installed the Micro Air Easy Start in the Dometic Heat Pump. I followed the directions online for the Dometic Family Penguin II - PLEASE DO THE SAME. My purpose in posting this is to show how this is done in the Heat Pump specific to the 2020 Black Series HQ15. I do not know if they use different units on other years or models (but I don’t think so).

NOTE I PURCHASED THE INSTALLATION KIT WITH THE EASY START. THIS MAKES IT MUCH EASIER FOR INSTALLATION. WACO CONNECTORS ARE INCLUDED - the tabs lift up, insert stripped wires and close tabs and the wires are spliced together NO CRIMPING INVOLVED.

`First step is to run the wires from the Easy Start (ES) to the electrical box. Route it through the hole with the putty (SEE PIC PUTTY) then to the hole to the electrical box. Replace putty and install new strain relief. Wire tie to secure the cables. 2) Remove wires on the Start capacitor. (SEE PIC START RUN CAPS) The red wire plus the PTCR is remove from the start cap and run cap side and discarded (SEE PIC RED PURPLE). The white wire is removed from the start cap to run cap and discarded (you do not need these wires). 3) Follow the white wire from the compressor to the RUN capacitor and remove from the run capacitor (SEE WHITE FR COMP). Remove terminal on the white wire and strip. Insert white wire and brown wire (from Easy Start) into Waco connector (SEE PIC BR+WH). 4) (SEE PIC FINAL RUN CAP) Remove the purple wire from the Start cap and move to the C terminal (white wire group) on the Run cap (THIS IS UNIQUE TO THE HEAT PUMP). NOTE: I did not remove the START CAPACITOR - it helps to hold the RUN Cap in tight. 5) Insert the White wire with Yellow connector from the ES to the white wire group “C” terminal on the Run capacitor. Insert the Orange wire with blue connector to the Red group of wires (HERM terminaly) on the Run cap. 6) (SEE PIC BLUE AND BLUE BLACK) Find the Blue wire from the compressor and cut in half. Strip the ends on both blue wire sections and insert into the WACO connector along with the Black wire from the ES. Secure the Easy start to the white foam and wire tie cables as needed and your done (SEE EASY START FINAL).

Cool thanks for the writeup! I can't quite picture where you put what parts. You have a top off picture, from before the install I assume. Do you have another one from that same angle after the install? That would really help!

 

[Bikepals]

TOP OFF PIC: Was taken before I started the installation.
WHITE FOAM REMOVED: Shows the easy start to the left. I was routing the wire for the ES to the electrical box top right. Foam had to be removed to get access to the hole to route into the electrical box.
FOAM PIC: THE ES was placed in the corner of the foam after it was replaced, shown in the last PIC as ES PLACEMENT.

I did not take a final PIC of the total unit after it was done because it would basically not look any different other than the ES in the left corner of the foam.

5 starts of the air conditioner are required so the EASY START can learn the start up of the compressor in the air conditioner. This has been completed and everything worked perfectly.