Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Tonight I mocked up the rear driveshaft from Tom Woods on the #LX45 tonight. One neat thing about this project is that the front and rear driveshaft are the same length. This means a common spare will work on either end. In order to make everything exactly the same I needed to drill the regular 10mm Toyota pattern on the 80 series rear flange. Now everything uses all the same parts. I also really like that the driveshafts are protected up in the frame with the flat belly! I also did a little work on the t-case center diff lock, but didn't get far on that. More tomorrow.







.....and from the other night....



The front shaft test fit.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
To fit, You likely wont find anything ready made as marker & turnsignal.
My ’65 I used the OEM lamps what fit that location. (Last I know spares still available!! ) They use 1157 dual filiment bulb. But that ’65 front bib is slightly different than your version. They could work & look sort of OK, but wont seat properly to that recess of your bib.
You probably have to custom make something. For example, https://www.oznium.com/marine-led-lighting/marine-led-light Then add a voltage dropper & diode to adapt as a dual brightness marker & turnsignal.

I think the early grill had a bit different shape to that area with more space?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Slacking a little bit again.....sorry....FB and IG are so easy.



I got the air shifter mechanism dialed in with the internal spring return function for the center diff lock. I will use a small 12V air solenoid so I can control all 3 lockers with a common set of 3 switches on the dash. I want all the lockers activated from the same spot....



Made some custom length grade 9 fasteners for the LT230 side of the driveshafts along with a full set of spares. The LT230 flange uses a 3/8-24 fastener. I wanted the shoulder of the bolt past the seam of the flanges for the best strength. I ended up having to buy long units and cut them down to the length I wanted. The LT230 flange usually traps the bolt, but I didn't want to have to remove the flange to replace the bolts, so I reversed things. The nut is trapped basically from spinning so you only need one tool to check/remove/replace things on that side.



Then I took things further apart...



Off to powdercoat with all this stuff...



Worked on assembling the adapter with the bearing and spud shaft, but got defeated by a monster snap ring. I ended up having to borrow a set of LARGE pliers from work.



Made a hollow alignment pin thing for the adapter setup.



I got the adapter back on the transmission. I need to get some more metric hardware to hold it all together.



Doing some paint color shopping. Light-ish blues are winning lately.
 

Onaplin

New member
Metcalf, I feel like such an idiot. I followed your build over on Pirate, and recently here. I just realized that it's you and the same truck on both sites. Doh.....:rolleyes: Oh, and I like the 2140 Pastel.
 
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Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Doing stuff on the #LX45 tonight. I sorted out the the hardware for the LT230 adapter. Replaced an exhaust manifold with a bad broke off stud. Found some more 10mm Toyota shouldered bolts for the front driveshaft. And found a few parts I missed that needed to go powdercoat....opps.



Trying to hit everything with some 242 during assembly. Hopefully that keeps things from rattling loose.



I got all the hardware sorted for the LT230 for length and position. Of course they don't use the same fastener for all location, but it wasn't too bad.



Off with the old exhaust manifold. It had a broken stud that kicked my butt.



I used a new gasket and hardware to make sure it sealed up like stock.



A friend was nice enough to send me a clean replacement manifold.



The new/used shouldered bolts for the front driveshaft. I need to find some spares too for the parts bag. It was at this point I noticed the front belly pan support.....that was suppose to go to powder coat....dang nab it. It isn't critical for the assembly of the transfer case so it isn't a huge deal.



I also got some proper fasteners for the fan. It was interesting to note that the mechanical fan system is only about 3.5-3.75" long. Running the numbers again, this seems like one of the most compact fan setups I have seen for the LS truck engine since it uses the threaded snout on the factory water pump. A 17" engine driven fan is also going to move A LOT of air....
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
More catch up. If you want the more instant daily updates that is trending to FB and IG, but I do tend to write more on the forums as far as details....

Let's see what has been going on...



I've been powdercoating most everything that is a bolt on bracket. I have a very good place with fair prices that turns things around fast local to me.





I did the final assembly on the transfer case adapter and put everything back together as much as I could. I really need to plug the transmission harness in before I reinstall the t-case....



Prepped the T-case input with a new seal in anticipation.



I went over the front axle and deleted the ABS harness. I don't need that anymore. I will have to look into making some aluminum plugs to remove the sensors eventually, but it is fine for now. Does anyone need a complete ABS harness for a 1996-ish LX450/FXJ80?



Killing some time painting some of the rear crossmember stuff along with the battery, air compressor, and tank mounts.



I finally found some turn signals I liked thanks to an Expo Portal member. I made this little layout template to help me center the hole I needed. I find it easiest to locate stuff like this based off the OD when dealing with pressed cavities like this.







These lights ( Peterson Lighting M286A LED ) mount with a grommet, but are surface mount so they stick out of the grill a bit. Hopefully they will be able to be seen from the side more.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Little bit more....



Somewhere in there I forgot to get the forward support for the belly pan powder coated. I dropped that off, got it back like 48 hours later, and then went ahead and installed it.

I am really liking these large clip nuts for the attachment of stuff like the belly pan where possible. They only take one tool, you can replace them, etc.





The grommets for the LED turn signals where designed for slightly thicker material than the grill shell. I ended up making a backing plate out of some old hole saw slugs which I welded to the grill. Now the grommet fits nice and tight.

I needed to make the hole in the middle larger to match the hole in the grill I had already done. The easy way seemed to be tacking the drops to a small scrap plate. Then using the same HolCutter and the existing center bit hole.

When I welded the backing plate into the grill I used a section of 3/4" round bar to locate the two bores concentric to each other for some tack welds.



I also started prepping the tub to go back on the chassis a bit more. The coated body mounts went back on with proper length hardware and locking nuts. I also made pattern for all the DEI heat shield I will be adding to the tub. This helps me save material as I can nest the patterns on the raw sheet knowing exactly what I need.

I will also be coating the entire inside of the tunnel in the same DEI material later. It isn't super cheap, but it worked WONDERS on my flat fender with floor heat. This amount should be amazing for rejecting heat from the exhaust, transmission, and transfer case.

That catches me up for now.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Mini projects...



I converted the cardboard templates into DEI Heat Shield panels on the underside of the tub. I love this stuff. It worked miracles in my flat fender.



I even found a use for a scrap piece on the support bracket for the air filter to help keep away a little more engine heat. I will hopefully be plumbing cool air into this filter from the cowl and/or hood vent also.
 

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