Building a Light Weight Low Profile Roof Rack

[Expedition.Report]

PART I

I dented my roof last weekend when hauling a canoe… it now has SEVEN small dents!!!
It was all my fault - The excess strap that was tying down front of the canoe to the D rings ended up coming loose and went under my tire (at low speed thank god) and snapped the strap, bent the canoe (fixed it already with a BFH).
But after that event I decided to put in motion the plan to build a new roof rack, version 2, for two reasons:
I have wanted a roof rack ever since I took the first one I made off (it had some minor design flaws
Now I have 7 small dents to cover up so I don’t get mad every time I walk down my front step and see the roof of my truck

Reasons for building rather than buying
First of all since there are only a few options out there, and none of them are all that affordable - most will likely need some form of modification to work anyway!
I like the challenge – pushing myself to develop new skills is something that I have always enjoyed.
I can incorporate the ideas swirling around my brain to get the exact product I am after

Design requirements
Low profile
Affordable
Modular/Adaptable
Functional
Looks factory/aftermarket & not home built!
Incorporates ditch lights on L & R sides
Incorporates a combo light bar up top because I’m scared of the dark and need LED’s everywhere!
Made from aluminum and stainless steel where possible to evade rust!
Systems used to plan design & build
My brain
Google Sketchup (free)
80/20’s website to calculate load deflection and pick which bars would be the right ones for me

Design
I really like the design and function of the Front Runner racks, but they didn’t make a rack size that seemed to belong on my roof - either too long or too wide – This is what lead me to start looking at the 80/20 bars in the first place, they were very similar to the slotted racks of the front runner system but were readily available to whatever size I required.
Since building my design and ordering the shop to cut them out I have come across two companies that manufacture a rack similar to the one I designed PrInSu Design (for the Toyota crowd) and M-racks (for the full size crowd).
Paid for services
Water jet
Powder coating

Here is a screen shot I took while drawing up the file: (not the final version)

 

[Expedition.Report]

PART II
So I picked up the two side rails from the water jet shop today after work... They look awesome!

So I started mocking up the rails to make sure I got my measurements right

Then checked that the cutout for the side lights are the right size (they need 1/16th taken off the centre)

Since everything was lining up real well it was time to start putting in the cross braces to start giving the rack some structure:

Then it was time to see how the 50" curved light bar will sit... I couldn't figure out a way to properly measure the position for the bar... so I eyeballed it and lucked out!

I have to mark and drill the mounting holes still and put in a slight bend outwards, but that was the plan all along so nothing new or unexpected there


Balancing for this shot proved to be a bit of a circus act but I managed


This is just a cheapo chinesium combo bar but I think it will do the trick

 

[Expedition.Report]

PART III

The rack is basically compete with the exception of wiring the 5 lights and putting on three more crossbars once they come in.

Here are some pics:

This has been a lot of fun and I learnt a lot! If I were to do it again I have noted a few things that I would have done differently.

With that said I would be able to make a longer version for the H3 if anyone were interested, just shoot me a PM.

 

[Expedition.Report]

Updated with pic's

 

[IRISH]

Very nice.

 

[southpier]

looks good, but also sharp enough to cut through any cross strapped load. or am I not understanding how it works? the built in side lights look uber-cool.

 

[Felix the cat]

I cheated and used a Gobi front hoop, but the rest is mine.

 

[Teh_VIking]

Looks good, I just did basically the same thing for my camper shell. 1/4 aluminum and 80/20.
With 7 1x2 bars at 57 inches and all the mounts and rails it came out to 50 lbs
Here are a few pics

 

[Expedition.Report]

looks good, but also sharp enough to cut through any cross strapped load. or am I not understanding how it works? the built in side lights look uber-cool.

Thanks I will be wiring up the lights tonight and then call done for a while!

I won't be using straps over the edge of the side rails, the way the cross bars work I can add eye bolts into the track system and have them any where I want which will give me unlimited options, here is a cross section of the cross bars:

So last night I added some bike mounts (the kind that secures the front fork)

And added more cross bars, which makes the rack look more complete:

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Expedition.Report]

Looks good, I just did basically the same thing for my camper shell. 1/4 aluminum and 80/20.
With 7 1x2 bars at 57 inches and all the mounts and rails it came out to 50 lbs
Here are a few pics
View attachment 404372
View attachment 404373

Looks great! Good idea on pre-loading the 80/20 with carriage bolts!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Climberclimb]

//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170610/6627a0364b5ec7cf8225647c9fbb56a9.jpg
Hi. Do you have to drill and tap the ends or does the material come with the holes pre drilled? Thanks

 

[Expedition.Report]

You can use a number of different taps on this particular unit, but if you want to use 1/4 -20 threads then you don't need to drill, just tap it and go

To the keen eye, the bar I used in the photo to demonstrate how the carriage bolts slide in has a tap broken off on the inside (one on the right)

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Teh_VIking]

Yeah I was going to try to drill a cutout where you could drop in carriage bolts but it didn't work well. So I put a bolt on each side for a eye nut and added some in the back for boxes that will be tied down. Its not too hard to add some more if you need too.

And tapping all those ends took me forever by hand. But its worth it in the end. The 80/20 is so versatile.

 

[Climberclimb]

Thanks for the info!!!
Cheers

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

They do offer nuts that can be installed and removed at anytime. They insert by rolling into the slot. Then all that is needed are long set screws to hold them in place and also act like pre-loaded bolts. Look for the nuts that appear to have a pin sticking up. That is a flexible rubber stem to help in positioning and removal.