caR50 Overland Rebuild

After years of hard use and minor neglect it is time to build the caR50 into my almost perfect overland rig. Over the last month I have touched up the welds on my rear bumper,created a spare tire carrier with grossly overbuilt hardware, and prepared for future mods. Mods hinge on traveling lighter, no more pulling the camping trailer on overland adventures because generally I have to drive in excess of 1100 miles of pavement. (Update 20160114: I am not counting the trailer out just yet) Although the new engine is night and day over a stock vg33e it is still a 5000lb truck and a 1500lb trailer.
Today started with a major interior cleaning which consumed half a bottle of simple green and nearly filled up a 14 gallon wet/dry vac with German Shepherd hair. Then I built a cardboard ARB 67qt fridge template, realizing that wouldn't fit I re-sized to the 50qt model.
The plans are new stainless exhaust, possibly a flat top passenger knuckle for turning radius more than anything, water tank where the stock spare tire goes, second true deep cycle battery, arb fridge, rear cargo area organization and storage device, winch, front locker, re-gear rear to 4.9 and front to 4.88, rebuild my spare transmission with a 88 turbo 300zx over drive to keep the low 4:1 in early pathfinders and gain a .81 over drive vs .86, and last but probably first tiddy up all of the auxiliary wiring and brake lines. Of course these "plans" may be limited by $$$$ and time.

Done
-Spare Tire Carrier
-Rear Bumper check over
-ARB cooler purchased
-Old Transmission removed
-T-Case chain examined, buttoned back up


Now for the pictures:

Before the clean, years of improper gear storage has taken its toll:

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New tire carrier latch, very skookum.

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The hinge has a latch to hold the tire carrier open in two positions.

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Dash after a good cleaning, this part of the truck has worn very well.

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The automatic to manual conversion done back in 08. I need to get or order a new set of boots.

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The awesome alternator, 125 amps at idle and the manufacture says I can weld directly off the alternator, other benefits...it uses the stock belt size and stock mounting locations unlike the large case ford alternators I use to run.

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The alternator regulator. This is their "stealth" model though I am not sure why, it is huge and there is nothing stealth about it, but very skookum it is.

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The new tire carrier. The CO2 tank holder and the proper license plate holder are not yet installed.

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Clearance for the CO2 tank.

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More of the same.

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The old front bumper, it is going to get a face lift and a winch.

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Here we are testing the 67 qt arb, assuming I wasn't going to have a drawer built under its location it looks like it may fit.

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It is hard to see here, but if I had 1/2" it would fit :(

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So I converted the 67qt to the 50 qt size and played around with shelving heights.

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A little tight with 9.5" drawers.

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But it looks like we are going to have to bring the drawers down to 6".

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Progress will be slow, but I hope to order exhaust pieces soon.

One question: I am looking for a quiet muffler, near stock sound levels. The only thing I can find that comes and I trust to last for years is a flowmaster 70 series, but this is made for engines twice as large as mine. I am tempted to give it a shot because I have the room and the reviews seem to be good. Recommendations?
 
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Last night I ordered all of my exhaust components. I went with 304 stainless tubing and v-band clamps to hold it all together. I want this to be the last exhaust I have to build for this vehicle. On the performance side I have two concerns. 2" tube was the smallest I could go with from each catalytic converter and unless I can figure out a way to enlarge the 1.75" hole to 2" I fear there will be a reduction in exhaust gas velocity after the obstruction which could hurt performance. The second concern is the muffler, I went with the Flowmaster 70 series. The inlet is dual 2.25" and 3.0" outlet. my inlet tube will be 2" and the outlet tubing will be 2.5". The differences in sizes could hurt overall exhaust gas velocity but a couple of hp for a quiet truck is worth it.
 
My exhaust parts arrived. 2" from cats to muffler and 2.5" back. The exhaust pieces will be assembled with v-band clamps so that it can easily be removed when major service is needed. I ended up going with the Flowmaster 70 series because I want the most quiet long lasting muffler I can get my hands on. Engine noise can really wear on you after long highway drives.

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I also ordered my ARB fridge with cover and a TIG welder. It has been a long time since I have TIG welded but having exhaust components mostly made of 304 stainless was a good reason to get back into it.
 

Silver dude

Xplorer
Wow great to see this rig still in use, a true legend. I love the trans idea, wish I knew about it when I rebuilt mine. Flowmasters rust pretty hard core in the midwest, mine has surface rust from just sitting in the garage uninstalled. They do have high gauge steel construction though so it does take a long time for them to rot off. Proper hangers and support are key. Really love the tone Flowmasters put out behind the Vg's as well. Love the way this build is progressing.
 
Thank you for the kind words.

Flowmasters rust pretty hard core in the midwest, mine has surface rust from just sitting in the garage uninstalled.

I am hoping that rust isn't an issue out here. My current muffler is still mostly rust free and serviceable.
 
More deconstruction:

The old muffler and elusive pipe that wraps around the t-case while trying not to interfere with the gas tank. Without the proper heat shielding this can heat up the front of the gastank during slow speed vehicle operation and cause excessive evaporation which then dumps excessive gasoline into the charcoal canister can causes permature failure and rough running at idle.

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The new exhaust will start right after the cat-flange.

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Driver's side.

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New muffler with adapters next to the old.

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Welded output adapter. I am very far from a good welder, but they won't break or leak.

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Welded inlet adapters.

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Not exhaust related but I shot some pictures of my slip yoke eliminator. Ever since Calmini stopped making theirs I found the Tom Woods would make one using my old Slip Yoke. Their welds aren't all that attractive but the real strength is in the press fit.

The rear driveshaft upgrade was the difference between driveshaft vibration out the rear and none at all. My friend did the same to his XJ and the results were identical.

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The exhaust is finally done. All stainless 304 from cat collector back except the muffler and 11 1/2" of 2 1/2" tube. It is absolutely amazing how quiet the exhaust now is. No pictures of the complete exhaust yet.

Although not completely offroad and far from roughing it here are the pictures from our recent trip to Big Bend State Park. We successfully towed my 30 ft fifth wheel 12 miles into the park for 4 days of awesome fun. This was our first time to test the trailer for more than a day off-grid and the solar system worked perfectly. Even though batteries were charged by noon and we weren't being that conservative I would like to increase the battery bank and solar panel count so that we can run a large inverter.

On to the pics:

An old grader at the Sauceda Station entrance.

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My other vehicle with four wheels. I absolutely love this truck.

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Night time at the campsite.

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Blurry shot of the trailer and truck.

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Old cattle tank.

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Rancho Viejo campsite. Easily accessible by larger vehicles.

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This is Lucy Lou, she is scared but sweet.

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Mexico is several miles behind the truck.

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Our friend refused to stay in the trailer with us because he stinks, but the weather was perfect and tent camping is always fun.

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My friend's Titan.

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More scenery.

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Looking down into Fresno Canyon

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And now for the exhaust pics.

Blurry Passenger flexible connection, in hindsight I should have shut off the engine.

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Passenger collector.

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The new flowmaster.

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Where the exhaust exits through the bumper.

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Muffler exit.

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Driver's collector, again blurry due to a running engine at idle.

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Driver's side flexible connection and an extra v-band clamp so that the t-case wrap around pipe can be removed.

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I took the caR50 down on a 400 mile round trip and it performed nearly perfectly. Tons of power on the highway and the gas mileage is better than ever. As you can see in the pictures above the tranismission and transfer case are leaking oil, the transmission is grinding in third, and the t-case is due for a tear down/inspection.

I found a manual/t-case combo out of a 1998 pathfinder for $350 and took the chance that the chain will be in good shape. My current transmission is out of a 95 with a 4:1 1st gear and a .86 over drive. The R50s came with a 3.51:1 1st gear and an .811 over drive which will greatly help with my highway rpms. Instead of turning 3k at 70 I should be down to 2700 until I gear down to 4.9s. I gave up on the idea of a 95 transmission with an 88-89 300zx turbo over drive because I have no idea how reliable to the setup will be, it is untested. As this is an overland build and the vehicle is used primary for overland trips reliability is key. There is also the fact that I would have to find the transmission, buy it and haul it home just for two lousy gears that will take at least an hour to get to.

I tore down the t-case today and found the chain to be in good shape, but haven't opened up the transmission yet. Pictures to come when I am not so tired/lazy and get a chance to upload them.
 
Bored .030 over
Diamond racing pistons, calculated compression is now 9.4:1 <---a higher compression ratio is the ticket for the VG33 engine
VG30E European cams
 
After a long crazy week of training/certification for work I finally had some time time tear into the caR50. Unfortuantely when I did the SAS the design of the cross member although super skookum requires disassembling most of the front suspension to get the transmission/t-case out. No worries, I need to drop the drag-link and align the trackbar anyways.

Now for the pictures:

Only the steering, brake lines, and trackbar are still attached to the axle. Belive it or not less than an hour was spent disassembling the suspension.

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I love this shot. The new exhaust is so easy to remove and there is an amazing amount of room to work under the vehicle now. Ever since the engine rebuild I have had a terrible leak from the rear seal area. I think it is the rear seal housing to oilpan gasket.

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This is the remains of whatever is leaking and a shot of the old transmisison's bellhousing. I am 100% sure it is not transmission fluid. Surprising the flywheel and clutch were 100% dry/clean. I guess they fling off whatever oil might come into contact with them.

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This is the original transfer case to the truck with Calmini gears. I thought the chain might be worn, but it actually looks pretty good. If it isn't within specs I have a spare.

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The "new" transmission straight out of a 98 R50. I dissembled it, inspect all internals, cleaned it and bolted up the cases.

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Nice and clean bellhousing. Since I had a front transmission seal on hand no reason not to replace it.

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It will probably be a week or two before I get the thing back together, but I am excited about the new gearing.
 
For the reference gawds out there and web crawlers that may enter this realm VG30 VG33e engine bellhousing holes are M10 1.5, that is all.
 

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