Crux Expedition Trailers in Denver CO.

Congratulations on your purchase. You should be able to go so many places with that rig and trailer. Looks like your ready for some trails/camping for sure.
I just read through your trailer build. Im gonna have to give you an "A" for creativity and hard work. I kinda feel a little bad for buying a trailer when I look around and see what others are building. Unfortunately I just don't have the time or space to build right now. Keep us posted on your progress.
Yeah sometimes I regret diving into building my own. As it's taking me to long to complete it and for what I have invested so far I could have bought a Smitty Built w/tent and be using it already! (Not to mention the $$$$$ that I still need to invest) But there are some unique things I do like about what I'm doing is the hard shell slèeping area and the possibility of housing a family of five by adding the rtt to it. By the way I did work on it last night!
Yup, thats my junk. And I ran it out to Moab last week for the Jeeper Jamboree from Thurs. to Sat. I need to make some deff. changes to the jeep if its to become my overlander. Im gonna switch out the tapered flares for a "outback" flare (they are 2 inches wider and do not tapper at the back). I will also be dropping down from a 40inc. MTR-K on ATX slabs to a 38inc. MTR-K on Hutcheson's, and from a 5 inc. lift to a 3.5 inch lift. Everything else will generally stay the same. 410 cid Hemi, 545RFE, 4 speed atlas (10:1 compound low), 1410 CV drivelines, pro rock 60 front, dana 70 rear, long arm, aluminum body armor, fender, bumpers, WARN 12S Platnum, Caged, leather, lineX, Spod, All JW Speaker lights, PSC ram assist.... BLA BLA BLA . I would like a GenRight second fuel tank and I need to install a genesis dual batt. system. Other than that, its super dependable, Ive driven it a little over 20K since it was finished, to the west coast and back several times and its my daily... I did manage to get 13.2 MPG average pulling the trailer while driving 70plus mph up Highway 70. The motor is super low compression, runs on regular pump gas, still MDS and VVT. It has a ton of torque and just cruises down the road with ease.

Thanks again...
Yuuupppp.... I have a good friend who out of frustration decided to build his own teardrop trailer and swore it shouldn't cost more than 2-3K IN MATERIALS...LOLOL. I love him, great dude and an even better friend. Last count he was at almost 10 grand and he has not put appliances
Sounds like your friend didn't do something right. I build the Sawtooth XL for $2600 minus electrical. It can be done inexpensively if you do it right and with some forethought
Key word "Forethought"... I think you could be correct. If you start to build something from scratch and youre running on good intention and some shop space its probably easy for the good idea fairy to help you change course and add things. My buddys trailer has a full Propex furnace, AC, fridge freezer combo, lighting, aluminum boxes, a generator and a matching spare. Im relatively certain his fridge freezer cost almost 2600. alone. Its a good point, that a person can build a decent trailer if they have a good plan and are prepared to execute and not get distracted. LOL, its all the amenities that cost so darn much....
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That is the point a trailer itself isn't where the cost goes over budget. It is everything else. That heater alone is around $800 which is the same cost as Timbren axles, Same as solar panels and the list goes on. At least they can be added as you go though. The nice thing is that you can defiantly customize things to your liking.
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Had to take my trailer back to Crux for some warranty work. Fairly minor, but I wanted to get it fixed ASAP. The bushing under the sink were the water line connects was leaking, the rear fan that is used to pressurize the inside of the compartments stopped working, and a drawer slide broke (little ball bearings fell out when I removed the drawer). None the less, the owner was very easy to work with, called her direct and got it fixed two days later.

I also asked for some spare parts and she sold them to me at cost.
1. A second large bag for the annex room walls when its folded up.
2. Four extra adjustable poles with C's on each end for extra support on the roof (heavy snow loads).
3. Spare hub and spindle assemblies for the independent suspension.
4. Extra set of drawer slides.
5. A solar extension line to make it easier to move the solar panel around as the sun moves in the sky :).

I leaned that CRUX has just signed a deal with Camping World for 450 units (wow). Good luck, for a small company in transition thats used top selling 20 units a month I think thats a big task... Guess you will see them for sale all over the Western US now.

So, I sat down and really started to think about packaging, the utilization of space and how to satisfy my needs for organization. Each side compartment has a set of drawers except the passenger side rear compartment (I removed the drawer) because that is the space soon to be occupied by a Propex furnace and hot water shower assembly. The trailer is divided into three sections. Section 1. The driver side will house the cook / wash station, along with all our food, and everything we might use to cook clean and eat with. Section 2. The rear tailgate slide out will be our Fridge / Freezer combo and obligatory wine rack. Section 3. The passenger side is divided into three areas. The front compartment houses Batteries, solar manager, Converter, water tank management, and misc. electronics. The middle compartment is all about maintenance and tools as well as a onboard compressor ( two ARB Twin HD's ) mounted under the bottom drawer. The rear corner compartment again, is for the Propex furnace and the hot water shower assembly and support equipment (i.e. shower tent).

For organization purposes I made a trip to IKEA, Bass pro shop, and REI. I was fortunate enough to have a supply of Pelican case foam inserts. I cut inserts for the driver side drawers (I still need one for the long drawer that slides out over the cook / wash station) and started to lay out how to place cooking ware, dishes, cutlery, bowls, cups and dry goods.

I found magnets strips to hold long knives to the inside of door #1 and individual stainless steel spice cups with magnetic backs for door #2. The magnetic strips were placed on door #1 as it opens to the front and will allow me to have the cook station pulled out, then reach over and get the knife I need during meal prep. and cooking.

In the middle compartment , bottom drawer I cut out for my wineglass and misc. holder as well as a Stanley Thermos. The top middle drawer is for dry goods. (I purchased sealed dry goods containers from IKEA) The space will hold eight containers (I will have to go back to get another four). The rear corner compartment is for bulk food items like mountain house meals, drink mixes, some larger pots and pans (Le Creuset).
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