Diesel engine heat management 6.0

[SHAFT]

Interesting. I think wrapping the downpipe made a biggest difference. I couldn't even leave a beverage in the cupholder on the dog haus for longer than 10 min. And the radiating heat on the passenger side was quite noticeable. I also re-insulated the dog haus but it's now a non-issue. And with a 40HP FICM tune and 80 HP PCM tune my van runs on the hot side of things.

Joe, i haven't run into those heat issues, but maybe it's a different climate thing? i completely forgot about coating and wrapping those pipes until i say your pics and now it's on my to do when i get home list. if you're monitoring EGT's, did you notice any before and after changes?

 

[FDM2012]

Got mine from http://www.dieselsite.com/coolantfiltration.aspx and I guess since I now have about
3000 miles on the first filter, I will change and cut it open today......

*Disclaimer* NOT Affiliated

Those of you running a coolant filter, what brand did you run?
I order a mishimoto kit today for a 6.4, it has longer lines and a frame mount.
Im going to filter the coolant for a month before doing a full flush to hopefully prevent plugging up the oil cooler.

 

[stormlover]

Joe, i haven't run into those heat issues, but maybe it's a different climate thing? i completely forgot about coating and wrapping those pipes until i say your pics and now it's on my to do when i get home list. if you're monitoring EGT's, did you notice any before and after changes?

Really, no heat through the dog haus? Dang thing is right on top of the turbo and exhaust pipe. Maybe your dog haus was insulated better than mine. Anyhow, while I had the downpipe off I moved the pyrometer probe to the Y-pipe. Post-turbo on the downpipe is ok but I want pre-turbo reading to know how hot the air is going to the turbo. Cruising is 850-900F and I'll hit 1200-1300F WOT on a grade. I killed the kitty and that brought EGTs down ~150F. I would have to say my under-hood temps are much better but I have no empirical evidence. Hood louvers seem to help, especially when stopped. Under-hood heat also cooks the wiring harness and impacts the FICM and other electrical components. With my mods and a stage 1.5 KCturbo I'm also pushing 400HP. The FICM tune alone probably pushed EGTs up 50 to 100F on any type of grade.

Tranny cooler, all aluminum radiator, hood louvers, etc. All part of the heat management plan. I'd look at a CAI if there were any options for the 6.0 without getting crafty.

Another vote for the Dieselsite coolant filter. If I had to do it over again I'd probably go with the one from IPR. http://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-High-Flow-Coolant-Filter-Ford-6.0.html

 

[Bigly]

Revived again... excellent information here but I had been thinking of a bigger tranny pan with cooling fins to chill down the tranny. That doesn't sound like it would be as effective as the Try-Cool unit. Cheaper part for sure with the cooler but a tad more complex of an install.

 

[stormlover]

Revived again... excellent information here but I had been thinking of a bigger tranny pan with cooling fins to chill down the tranny. That doesn't sound like it would be as effective as the Try-Cool unit. Cheaper part for sure with the cooler but a tad more complex of an install.

I put a Mag-Hytec on mine. Mostly for the bling factor but I was upgrading to the 6.4 pan to fit the larger filter anyway.

The Tru-Cool has been one of the best upgrades I've done on my van. The Aluminess bumper blocks half the air flow and when creep along slow, off-road my tranny temps would easily hit 230F and I once hit 275F going over Imogene Pass. The cooler is 5x(?) smaller than the F series cooler. But beware the fittings are a PIA. It's a 3/8" inverted flare to a 1/2" hose barb to make it work. Otherwise, it bolts in there quite nicely and is plug and play with some minor trimming. The tru-cool was originally designed for the 7.3 which has 3/8" fittings and the 6.0 with the 5R110 is 1/2".

 

[Navi]

Which custom tunes for the sct x4 are you guys running? I know the 7.3 like DP. The 6.0 truck guys seem to recommend Gearhead or Innovative. 5Star has 6.0 van tunes but mainly do gassers, but that van experience surely helps.
Looking for mild 40-60hp tunes. A street and then a tow tune.

 

[stormlover]

I have tried tunes from Innovative, Gearhead, Power Hungry Performance, and TSD. I like the ones from IDP and PHP the most. The PHP 80HP daily driver tune is what I'm running now. The power is nice and linear and pairs the best with the Atlas40 FICM tune. I also like the 65HP economy tune I have from IDP. Those are some of the biggest names in 6.0 tuning and can't go wrong with any of them except TSD. They don't know vans.

 

[derjack]

Diesels need the heat to run efficiently.

6.0 t-stat doesnt even open all the way until 219 degrees.

And with a 16PSI radiator cap, the coolant system is good for 250 degrees or so.

Heat is a sign of INEFFICIENCY! the more heat an engine produces the less energy [from diesel oil] went into producing power! This is the reason why all car manufacturers are going for downsizing: smaller engines produce less heat.

As for the topic: I would go for things
1: air cooler for the turbo
2: electric fan with a shroud

 

[IdaSHO]

And your logic is flawed.

By your own definition, you are already wasting a ton of energy in the form of heat via the radiator.

Same goes for your suggestion of a charge cooler.

Furthermore, with that logic a higher temp thermostat would allow the engine to "loose" less of that heat, as it isnt diverted to and "lost" by the radiator.




The facts are simple. Diesels operate by compression ignition. This needs heat.

As the engine heats up, the oil thins and the piston rings expand to create a better seal against the cylinder walls.

The more heat (within reason) the more efficient this process is. More power, less unburt fuel out the tailpipe.



Dont believe me?

Try running ANY liquid cooled engine without a thermostat, and report back your fuel MPG findings.

 

[Navi]

Has anyone ran the BPD 7.3 adapter and fan clutch?

 

[pugslyyy]

Heat is a sign of INEFFICIENCY! the more heat an engine produces the less energy [from diesel oil] went into producing power! This is the reason why all car manufacturers are going for downsizing: smaller engines produce less heat.

As for the topic: I would go for things
1: air cooler for the turbo
2: electric fan with a shroud

Well heck I'll just disconnect the water pump and insulate the whole engine compartment with spray foam then. What increased efficiency should I expect?