Why not just change the material of the original tent to more opaque/waterproof material? Now you sleep on the rear seat area and this improves usability? Could you explain that?
When I bought the ER, the short-term (1400 miles) original owner's "tester" wrote me a long e-mail to warn me of the problems I would have with the tent's lack of weathertightness.Why not just change the material of the original tent to more opaque/waterproof material? Now you sleep on the rear seat area and this improves usability? Could you explain that?
The principle person sleeps on a curbside bed 18 inches off the floor, but James and I are looking into the possibility that a second person can be accommodated with a bed that's supported by the roll cage above the streetside shelving. Because of the extra couple of feet available in the "nose cone," there's plenty of length. The only question, unsettled at the moment, is whether I'd rather use the space for the bed or have more storage.Haven said:Regarding the new tent top, the result doesn't look long enough for adults to sleep in. Is this correct?
I thought about this long and hard, but the complexity turned out not to be worth it. The cabin is pretty useful now even with the roof down, and I decided that having hard panels would take up space and increase the complexity without enough benefit. And while an overlapping roof like Sonke's would be very cool, the conversion we did was more practical because keeping the "hinged in back" arrangement made life much simplier by using the original ER hinge and latches.ColinTheCop said:Just thinking aloud, would it have been possible to do the tent sides in some sort of hard material that folds down into itself...? Even better protection in the rain i'd have thought.... almost like Sonke's toyota conversion.
In the ER photo above of the tent when deployed, on streetside, you can see a silver "strut" going pretty much straight up to connect with the big "hoop" in the center of the tent, with the fixed end of the strut coming from behind the far rear part of the shelving, where it was bolted to a sturdy framework.
James, do you have any info on the air struts you used? I'm throwing some ideas around on a build and I keep going back between air and electric. Thanks, Jason
With the help of the fabrication team at Upscale Automotive in Tualatin, OR (where I have my Sprinter work done), we got the roof, rear step, roof rack and several of the other modifications done last year before it went to James.ersatzknarf said:Also, really like the idea of using pneumatic rams, rather than hydraulics (one leaky seal and oil everywhere ). I previously had a google around, but could not find ones similar. Would you mind to share where such ones could be found, please?