eatSleepWoof's 2016 Tacoma DCLB

Kpack

Adventurer
Why not both? Keep inside when not in use, but be able to mount them outside after they've gotten dirty? Let's be honest, you won't be using the MaxTrax all that much. They will likely spend most of their time inside the canopy, and on the rare occasions that you have to pull them out you can easily store them on the roof rack. Hose them off when you get home and store them back inside.
 
Why not both? Keep inside when not in use, but be able to mount them outside after they've gotten dirty? Let's be honest, you won't be using the MaxTrax all that much. They will likely spend most of their time inside the canopy, and on the rare occasions that you have to pull them out you can easily store them on the roof rack. Hose them off when you get home and store them back inside.
That's a good compromise. And you're right, I've only really used the MaxTrax a single time in the ~14 months I've had them. I actually kind of regret buying them and have considered selling them numerous times. The only thing stopping me is that I plan to move to the interior of BC sometime in the second half of this year, and living there will involve "real" winters, so the MaxTrax may become much more useful.

Having MaxTrax inside (as they are now) is not ideal, either. They will get in the way of me carrying my OzTent as I like to do it, tucked up on the inside of the canopy's roof. Everything is a compromise... decisions, decisions.
 
Real winters? What Vancouver doesn't get a winter? Hehehe.

You won't need matracs in the winter, just drive slow and enjoy the beautiful scenery and keep the fridge stocked with beer so I can grab a cold one on my way through. Now if your talking about us taking a winter trip on some of the lovely FSR roads that are not always open, then that is a different story.
 
I wanted to mount the ARB fridge socket up on the roof of the canopy, so I made a bracket for it:





And mounted it above and on the side of the fridge:



Wiring runs down the side of the canopy, then under the Decked system, and follows the perimeter of the bed until it enters my electrical box. I left just enough cable length to allow the fridge to slide out without putting tension on the wire. Came out very neat and works great.



Used my Front Runner table slides to mount my table underneath the AluCab load bars. Worked out well.



I had to significantly modify the locking latch to make it work with the AluCab bar, though. I cut off the top of it, trimmed a large chunk at the bottom, and made cut outs on the inside part of the latch to clear hardware I added in order to secure the angle brackets on each side. I'm not too crazy about it sticking out past the load bar, but that's the best that can be done with this piece. It does work great, though - just as good as it did on my Front Runner rack.



Also mounted my awning again, this time on a pair of RhinoRack brackets. I don't really like that the gussets get in the way of "flush" mounting the awning against the load bars, but it'll do for the time being. I'll keep an eye out for other brackets that might work - I want the awning mounted fairly low (ideally lower than the load bars), and tucked close to the load bars themselves.

 
I took apart the plywood enclosure that I previously built for my water tank and drastically simplified it.

A single piece of carpeted plywood is ratchet-strapped to the side of the tank, and is used to mount all components. There are pieces of "spacer" plywood between the tank and the main plywood piece, to allow for a gap through which wiring is ran.

I replaced all water lines and fittings (with the exception of the auxuliary intake line), upsizing from 1/4" ID to 3/8" ID. This gave me noticeably better flow. I also made sure to get stainless fittings instead of the brass ones that were used before. No more worries about contamination or lead. I further simplified things by getting rid of all quick-disconnect fittings, as I simply didn't use/need them.

The main, blue hose is actually a rubber air hose, but works perfectly for this application, too. It is rated to remain soft and pliable to something like -40C temperatures. The garden hose nozzle is also mostly stainless. There's a barely-visible rocker switch in the top left corner of the panel to turn the pump on/off.

Not visible in the photo, but I also added a quick-disconnect on the power wire, so that I can easily remove this from the truck during winter months. The unit fits perfectly behind my fridge slide, and is secured to the truck's bed rails via a ratchet strap. Works great, easily accessible, and easily removable. I'm happy.

 
Your water tank looks great, I really like the ability to disconnect and remove easily. I’m curious about changing your fittings and the concern for lead/contaminants. I don’t know much about brass fittings, I just figured they were safe for potable water? Do you use this system for drinking water? If so, is the air hose “food grade”?
 
Your water tank looks great, I really like the ability to disconnect and remove easily. I’m curious about changing your fittings and the concern for lead/contaminants. I don’t know much about brass fittings, I just figured they were safe for potable water? Do you use this system for drinking water? If so, is the air hose “food grade”?
My understanding is that lead is used in brass fittings for hardening purposes. Of course, it's a tiny amount of fitting with a tiny amount of lead for a tiny amount of consumable water, but still.

Good question about the rubber air hose. I had assumed that rubber was fine, but a quick Google search shows there are different types of rubber and different possibilities of contaminants. Will have to research this one further.
 
Some big upgrades were done over the last few days.

First up, Nitro 4.88 gears, along with an ARB air locker were installed. I'm still in the break-in period and as such, driving conservatively, but it's already a huge improvement over stock gearing. Much less shifting, way more accessible power. Strangely, the truck feels heavier, as does the gas pedal, but also, more solid. Not quite sure how or why, but that's the feeling I got. Very happy with the results so far.

The installation was done by Enrico's Differential Solutions in Mission, BC. Out the door cost was about $3660 CAD (just under $2800 USD), and took less than 1.5 days. This shop came highly recommended (by a half dozen different people) on the local Toyota 4WD group, and so far I'm quite happy with how things turned out. The guys there know their stuff, and their prices and turn around time are going to be damn hard to beat.

The locker isn't hooked up to a compressor yet, as I don't have one setup for now. But an ARB Twin will be getting added soon!

I also replaced the fog lights with a pair of Baja Designs "Squadron Sport, Wide Cornering, Amber" lights. I almost got the Pro model (which provides 2x the lumens), but @aaen talked me out of it, and I'm glad he did.

Sweet mother of god! These things put out a LOT of light.

Right off the bat, these things are absolutely unsuitable for city driving. They put out a stupid amount of light in seemingly all directions and will blind the heck out of everyone. But I also suspect they will cut through fog, heavy snow and dust quite well (which is what I got them for).

Fog lights turned on, as well as my HID low beams. Note how far up the fog lights throw their beam - the amber light is all over the ground, both sides of the truck, and above the HID cut off. I was actually under impression that the fog lights would have their own cut off, as wording on the Baja Designs site suggests that, but perhaps I misunderstood.



Side shot:



Full frontal:



Off:



The one disappointing aspect is that the lights do not sit perfectly flush with the surrounding plastic, and have this small gap (identical on both sides):



I recently also got rid of my Relentless Lo-Pro bumper and replaced it with OEM components. A similar bumper from SSO was ordered, this time with a hoop and a cutout for a 20" Baja Designs S8 light (which is also incoming soon).

My Relentless bumper was peeling and slightly rusting in many spots, and I was never truly happy with it, so a replacement was long overdue. I thought about going for a full bumper this time around, but after thinking it over for a week or so, ended up ordering the similar (but considerably better) bumper from SSO. Should have it in two months or so!
 
Your more then welcome, I went through the exact same THougth process, but was talked out of getting the pro’s by others as they were just to damn bright for day to day driving. the sports are still almost to bright, but just use em like you would your hi beams, actually they are brighter then the stock hi beams.

Your truck did have a lot more pep, mine is up next as ya know and is being worked on by the same shop. Sadly they are finding a lot of issues with my diff from the lovely monkeys at 4wd parts, should have known better, so far it just looks like I need new bearings, hopefully nothing more is needed.
 
I’ll confirm with @eatSleepWoof comments above, just got my truck back a few hours ago. Night and day difference, granted.I no longer have the ALUcab canopy on the truck but the truck is very responsive with throttle inputs, a lot lower RPMS (2300-2400 at 100kph(60mph)) which seems to be where a v6 should run give or take.
 
I'm not sure if the "OEM fit" Baja Designs kit allows you to adjust the angle of the lights at all, but that's what I did on mine to solve the blinding problem. I too have the Squadron Sport Wide Cornering in amber, and initially they were throwing light literally everywhere. I tipped both sides down a few degrees so that the top edge of the throw pattern is just below the normal headlight pattern (use a wall or garage door for this).

Now when I drive at night they throw light down and to the sides like they are supposed to. I've never been flashed with them on and I always drive with them on at night.
 
I'm not sure if the "OEM fit" Baja Designs kit allows you to adjust the angle of the lights at all, but that's what I did on mine to solve the blinding problem. I too have the Squadron Sport Wide Cornering in amber, and initially they were throwing light literally everywhere. I tipped both sides down a few degrees so that the top edge of the throw pattern is just below the normal headlight pattern (use a wall or garage door for this).

Now when I drive at night they throw light down and to the sides like they are supposed to. I've never been flashed with them on and I always drive with them on at night.
Interesting. I'll have to double check, but I'm about 95% sure there is no way to adjust anything on my setup.
 
I've got the same kit of bajas on my 3rd gen and you can adjust them down a bit. Enough that the light is below the cutoff of the low beams but it still looks like this at roughly 120ish yards. Granted, the photo exaggerates the output a bit but, I'd not want to drive around with them on with traffic. Around. Also, here are a couple shots with them aimed as stated, I have Phillip's 35 watt hid kit from xenon depot in low beams.


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