Edgestar Fridge Low Battery Cut Off Issues
- Thread starter Rando
- Start date
4x4junkie
Explorer
Oh I know how much power it uses... It's the motorhome's wiring. Most of it appears to be maybe #12 or 14 AWG, and has some length to it since the fuse/breaker panel is at the rear near the floor, and the socket is way up front under the TV cabinet.
In my Ford I have a socket wired directly with about 8' of #10 wire, it runs perfectly fine for days there.
I'll probably wire a separate socket for it in the MH straight off the house battery (skipping the breaker panel entirely), should take care of it.
In my Ford I have a socket wired directly with about 8' of #10 wire, it runs perfectly fine for days there.
I'll probably wire a separate socket for it in the MH straight off the house battery (skipping the breaker panel entirely), should take care of it.
G35Vortec454
Adventurer
I knw this is old but i just ran into it and was just curious although my 63qt Edgestar has no issues at all that I know.
Re: r7 = 10k, r8 = 100k, to lower the lbco without disturbing the rest of the circuit, it would be more ideal to reduce r8 to 83k, for example, and also at the same time increase r7 to 27k (10k + the 17k reduction in r8).
Re: r7 = 10k, r8 = 100k, to lower the lbco without disturbing the rest of the circuit, it would be more ideal to reduce r8 to 83k, for example, and also at the same time increase r7 to 27k (10k + the 17k reduction in r8).
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Hey Guys
Just found this thread while searching my issue.
I just bought and installed my 63qt on 10-1-2015 and having the exact same issues discussed here.
What i have done (and STILL hasnt fixed it):
-Replace 12v cord with more heavy duty unit (didnt help at all)
-Cut cig adapter plug off of cord and hard wired right to battery, a big Odyssey PC2150, helped quite a bit, but still cant make it through an entire day even when the battery starts fully charged
-Tightened up a few loose spade connectors, nothing
-Ran off of 110V via Xantrex 2000 pro sine inverter. Works perfect.
I need to fix this ASAP as the Edgestar 60 quart is the only 60qt unit out there with the dimensions that will fit my setup.
I have read Rando's fix, and think that MIGHT solve my issue. But my electronics skills are lacking and i am nervous.
Anyone have an idiot proof step by step guide or how too for this??
Thanks
Just found this thread while searching my issue.
I just bought and installed my 63qt on 10-1-2015 and having the exact same issues discussed here.
What i have done (and STILL hasnt fixed it):
-Replace 12v cord with more heavy duty unit (didnt help at all)
-Cut cig adapter plug off of cord and hard wired right to battery, a big Odyssey PC2150, helped quite a bit, but still cant make it through an entire day even when the battery starts fully charged
-Tightened up a few loose spade connectors, nothing
-Ran off of 110V via Xantrex 2000 pro sine inverter. Works perfect.
I need to fix this ASAP as the Edgestar 60 quart is the only 60qt unit out there with the dimensions that will fit my setup.
I have read Rando's fix, and think that MIGHT solve my issue. But my electronics skills are lacking and i am nervous.
Anyone have an idiot proof step by step guide or how too for this??
Thanks
Last edited:
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
I am also contemplating bypass the Thermo Switch, hard wiring to the compressor and just using an on/off switch.
Thoughts on that? I dont really need to adjust the temps, 32 is fine for me.
Thanks
Thoughts on that? I dont really need to adjust the temps, 32 is fine for me.
Thanks
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Just an FYI, that first link now goes to a Porn site!
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
mtnbike28
Expedition Leader
I've owned the EdgeStar FP 430 freezer since ~2009. Fantastic unit! More so after I replaced the plastic door hinges with the metal replacements. But I'm still having the same problems in 2018.
The recently downloaded PDF file, the 2017 owner's manual, explains how to lower the low voltage cut-off from the control panel. My older unit doesn't have that capability. And I'm not an electrician and have no experience with soldering circuit boards.
I bought a 12v capacitor. It's made for stereo systems to supply power for subwoofers. It's 1 farad (generally good for 1000 watts per farad). I wired it to the RV's fuse/breaker panel. I was hoping it would keep the voltage up. If it did, it wasn't high enough. It lights up displaying the voltage when the freezer's compressor turns on. But the freezer/s compressor still shuts off from the low voltage cutoff. Probably unnecessary but I pays my money and I takes my chances. Doesn't hurt to keep it.
I measured the voltage at the 12v socket:
- When hooked to shore power, the RV's circuit box/transformer supplies 12v (13.3+). The freezer turns on, the voltage drops to 12.70 volts, and the compressor/freezer continues to run as it should.
- When on battery (a new Centennial DC4D), the freezer turns on and the voltage drops to 12.30v, and the freezer shuts down. Even with the 12v capacitor.
I've sent a note to EdgeStar explaining this, I'm waiting for an answer. But until then, here's my answer:
I bought a 12v transformer. It's made for supplying the proper voltage (typically 19.5v DC) from a car's 12v to a laptop computer. It's voltage output has seven settings ranging from 15v to 24v, all at 120 watts. The FP 430 freezer needs 65 watts, so it's enough power. I rigged the output to a 12v socket. It's output is set at 15v.
Lots of adapters here, and in theory, each one adds resistance. But in testing overnight, battery only, the freezer ran fine.
When on the road with this freezer full, this is the only way to keep it running.
When "dry camping" (no shore power), this is the only way to keep it running.
It's dependent on a good battery. My solar charge system works during the day, and the freezer runs all night.
Carl Sagerquist
Coarsegold, CA
Zeus@Sagerquist.net
The recently downloaded PDF file, the 2017 owner's manual, explains how to lower the low voltage cut-off from the control panel. My older unit doesn't have that capability. And I'm not an electrician and have no experience with soldering circuit boards.
I bought a 12v capacitor. It's made for stereo systems to supply power for subwoofers. It's 1 farad (generally good for 1000 watts per farad). I wired it to the RV's fuse/breaker panel. I was hoping it would keep the voltage up. If it did, it wasn't high enough. It lights up displaying the voltage when the freezer's compressor turns on. But the freezer/s compressor still shuts off from the low voltage cutoff. Probably unnecessary but I pays my money and I takes my chances. Doesn't hurt to keep it.
I measured the voltage at the 12v socket:
- When hooked to shore power, the RV's circuit box/transformer supplies 12v (13.3+). The freezer turns on, the voltage drops to 12.70 volts, and the compressor/freezer continues to run as it should.
- When on battery (a new Centennial DC4D), the freezer turns on and the voltage drops to 12.30v, and the freezer shuts down. Even with the 12v capacitor.
I've sent a note to EdgeStar explaining this, I'm waiting for an answer. But until then, here's my answer:
I bought a 12v transformer. It's made for supplying the proper voltage (typically 19.5v DC) from a car's 12v to a laptop computer. It's voltage output has seven settings ranging from 15v to 24v, all at 120 watts. The FP 430 freezer needs 65 watts, so it's enough power. I rigged the output to a 12v socket. It's output is set at 15v.
Lots of adapters here, and in theory, each one adds resistance. But in testing overnight, battery only, the freezer ran fine.
When on the road with this freezer full, this is the only way to keep it running.
When "dry camping" (no shore power), this is the only way to keep it running.
It's dependent on a good battery. My solar charge system works during the day, and the freezer runs all night.
Carl Sagerquist
Coarsegold, CA
Zeus@Sagerquist.net
Last edited:
freedomlove04
New member
I've had a fp430 since 2012 and can't seem to solve the LBCO problem. It's only seen minimal ac and one dc usage where it gets cold and works for 1hr to 1 day then the LBCO kills it. Tried: new dc marine plug, 10 AWG straight to battery in the jeep(with oversized diehard platinum) and still LBCO. Completed the Rando resistor mod. Still LBCO. Does anyone have any ideas? I am tempted to take it to a local professional in a desperate attempt to salvage the 500$ I seemed to have wasted, but am loathe to waste more time and money on it. I looked today and edgestar has discontinued the model and apparently were never much help anyhow. I want to use it inside as often or more than in the jeep so hardwiring it in the vehicle is not ideal. Any assistance would be seriously appreciated...
wanderer-rrorc
Explorer
Mine is in the Back of my long body van. Run#6
It worked fine in my new ram in the bed but the socket to battery run was 8ft and 10 gauge worked fine..in the van the run is almost 20 ft. I HAD to upsize to keep enough volts to stop it from low voltage cut off.
Think of it as a bigger straw to drink a milk shake thru..
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
It worked fine in my new ram in the bed but the socket to battery run was 8ft and 10 gauge worked fine..in the van the run is almost 20 ft. I HAD to upsize to keep enough volts to stop it from low voltage cut off.
Think of it as a bigger straw to drink a milk shake thru..
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
I have an older FP630. Bought used very cheap due to incorrect temperature indication due to an inaccurate temperature sensor. The sensor is buried inside at manufacture. Edgestar became aware and installed two sensors, one a spare, in later models.
I found this temperature controller on Ebay, cut the (yellow?) wire to the compressor, ran it to the new Chinese controller contact and then back, and it maintains the temperature very well for two years now. The wire to the temperature sensor goes up behind the black tape, under the top gasket and the sensor is epoxied to the interior. Cheat sheet for Celsius required for ignorant me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-Fine...-Thermostat-Control-Switch-Probe/232211836602
I initially had a low voltage cutoff when testing with a lighter socket that cleared after hardwiring with 12 gauge wire. It may be possible a skillisecond interruption due to a bad connection, especially at startup could cause an alarm.
This is from memories of disassembly two years ago. There was what appeared to be a typical switching power supply to provide DC to the controls when plugged to AC shore power. Rectangular silver box.
It provided DC up to the controls and appeared to be simply tied to the 12VDC battery supply as shown in the below wiring diagram. Could it possibly also provide charging current to the source battery? I didn't think about that at the time.
It might be possible to use the above controller to maintain temperature without the voltage protection feature. It is a DC compressor.
I found this temperature controller on Ebay, cut the (yellow?) wire to the compressor, ran it to the new Chinese controller contact and then back, and it maintains the temperature very well for two years now. The wire to the temperature sensor goes up behind the black tape, under the top gasket and the sensor is epoxied to the interior. Cheat sheet for Celsius required for ignorant me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-Fine...-Thermostat-Control-Switch-Probe/232211836602
I initially had a low voltage cutoff when testing with a lighter socket that cleared after hardwiring with 12 gauge wire. It may be possible a skillisecond interruption due to a bad connection, especially at startup could cause an alarm.
This is from memories of disassembly two years ago. There was what appeared to be a typical switching power supply to provide DC to the controls when plugged to AC shore power. Rectangular silver box.
It provided DC up to the controls and appeared to be simply tied to the 12VDC battery supply as shown in the below wiring diagram. Could it possibly also provide charging current to the source battery? I didn't think about that at the time.
It might be possible to use the above controller to maintain temperature without the voltage protection feature. It is a DC compressor.