F250 V8 Flex Fuel 6.2 - how cold it too cold?

jrfromafar

Adventurer
Hello I am hunkered down inside my Alaskan camper outside of Silverton Co -
Am fine inside (barely - catylitic heater plus 2 wool blankets & down sleeping bag- the worst that could happen is my pee pot freeze :) but worried about my F250 - supposed to get down to 12* F at 4:00 am - should I be ok or should I start it & idle it at all?
 
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kahos

Member
As a Canadian, I can't help but find this a little funny! You'll be fine!
That's too warm to bother plugging my block heater. As a matter of fact, some block heaters have a thermostat and won't even turn on at that temperature. GM's I believe only kick in at 0 or colder.

The only time I've had a late model truck fail to start, the temperature had dipped to -40c. Conventional engine oil in the Hemi had turned into molasses.
 

jrfromafar

Adventurer
Well that’s good news to me - being a Central Californy boy I’m not used to much below 30*F - thanks all & glad I can provide a little laugh!
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
the only reason why a gasoline engine shouldnt start, is its so cold the motor oil has become so thick the weakened battery cannot overcome the resistance.

also, you'll have no lubrication. that should be somewhere around -30 or below
 

adam88

Explorer
You are totally fine. Once you hit -30, I would run it on idle non-stop just to be safe. That's me though. DEFINITELY at -40. The problem is all the components like the power steering and all the water pumps. A block heater only heats the oil. So if you park you car in -40 overnight with a block heater plugged in and start it in the morning, the engine is warm but the components struggle and you wouldnt be surprised to see power steering fluid leaking in the snow.
 

Buddha.

Finally in expo white.
I've owned all kinds of high mileage vehicles( all electronic fuel injection) with questionable maintenance histories and I've never had one fail to start because of cold -20f or -30f Minnesota winters. One exception is as a teenager I thought my Dodge neon would run better on high octane fuel. I had to use ether to get it to start for that tank of fuel during a cold-snap
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
0 is no problem. -25 is more worrisome. The 6.2 can idle indefinitely. Mine has as many idle hours as driving hours.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Forgot to mention. Check your 6.2 for a coolant block heater. Many came with them, and only need the Oem cord added.

It's the freeze plug style that I hate though. Not the nice Kh bullet style. I prefer outside the block bottle heater because they're low, so when they nuke, all the broken copper bits do not enter the engine. And they have a check valve to circulate coolant. They will make enough heat so that a JD diesel can rev to 1800 rpm and produce 50% of max power, within 10 seconds of a start command. Usually plumbed between the lower hose and side of block.
 
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kahos

Member
You are totally fine. Once you hit -30, I would run it on idle non-stop just to be safe. That's me though. DEFINITELY at -40. The problem is all the components like the power steering and all the water pumps. A block heater only heats the oil. So if you park you car in -40 overnight with a block heater plugged in and start it in the morning, the engine is warm but the components struggle and you wouldnt be surprised to see power steering fluid leaking in the snow.

Ah, yes! The Ford power steering whine! We had a fleet of Gas F-250s with 5.4s a little while back. I'll never forget the sound of these pump's audible displeasure at -25/-30 cold starts. The 6.0 chevies were not as loud or distinctive. I could definitely tell them apart just idling in the parking lot.

I'm glad my F-150 has electric power steering! I always sort of felt bad for the little PS pump!
 

Explorerinil

Observer
Your fine! If your in 0 degrees or less run synthetic oil it will help with th start up.


FYI I have let my cummins sit all week in 10 below unplugged and it started fine.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Should be in a freeze plug on the block:
https://external-preview.redd.it/QR...bp&s=fe07a9443b6537c4f5654abee6a5bd2117a07399

On the drivers side. I'd only use it way below 0 degrees. Using it too often in warmer temps will dry out the hoses, and the heaters own oring. And when it nukes, you have to be really careful not to scratch the blocks hole when removing it. I have the plow kit and don't have the heater. I think the 350 and plow kit automatically gets the heater. And some engines have the heater, purely on accident. Not uncommon for engines to be generically the same for a while at the factory.

I might add an glue on oil pan heater. They do next to nothing, but that's more than enough in Ohio. But the salt rust getting under that heater pad, might be worse than starting a cold engine. I'll have to make sure the 6.2L pan can be dropped without pulling the engine, and not like our old 7.3L trucks.

0w30 oil is another option in the winter. I use 10w30 in the summer.

LOL, the new power steering pumps are noisier than ever. They make a howling noise as well as the super charger noise. Our GM's will also howl but no supercharger noise. But the LS GM's have a nasty howl that comes from the cam shaft area on the back of the block at 15 below zero, that last's a while. No idea what it is, but it's never hurt anything. Trans pump?
 
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