Finished my dual battery and secondary electronic system

[another_mike]

Looks good to me, that's how I like to do mine too. I can even see in the pictures that the tech flex sleeve is short of the end of the wire insulation allowing a good seal. Some of the responses here are a good reminder of why I didn't even start a build thread for my current rig.

eh, I treat build threads different. I wouldve never replied if this was someones thread documenting every step of their process.

 

[Rezarf <><]

No harm, no foul bro. It is good info.

 

[restorationrides]

[QUOTE="Rezarf <>View attachment 444030

That strip job would have failed the inspectors I know. Broke or missing strand, skive mark on conductor from stripping device. Weakens all those marked strands. Each missing strand will reduce the current carrying capacity. Sometimes a bargain is not always a bargain. The higher the strand count the more flexible the cable and less likely strands will break from strain and vibration. Also the more strands the less a broken strand effects the current carrying capacity.

As far as soldering lugs to prevent corrosion. Yes it will help but unless they are done in a 0% humidity inert gas environment they will corrode from trapped gas and moisture. The reason most soldered connections fail is because of conductor breaks at soldered point. This lug is perfect example. One end fixed and cable vibrates or is some kind of strain. Cable will be in a strain unless it comes out straight from lug. Bends place side loads at solid point of lug. Even using cable clamps will not help the situation. It will just move the point of vibration stress. Soldered lugs will fail just like your broken conductor. Yes aircraft connections are soldered at the connectors, but. No crimp joint can equal the connection quality of a soldered joint. Aircraft harnesses are designed as whole to prevent conductor stress and vibration. They are wrapped and clamped in bundles to secure the conductors. Soldered lugs should not be used for Automotive use. Automotive harnesses are not designed the same as Aircraft harnesses.

Not busting your chops about the stripping and broken conductor but it was perfect example of what happens to soldered connections.[/QUOTE]Paragraph by paragraph here...

"That strip job would have failed the inspectors I know. Broke or missing strand, skive mark on conductor from stripping device. Weakens all those marked strands. Each missing strand will reduce the current carrying capacity. Sometimes a bargain is not always a bargain. The higher the strand count the more flexible the cable and less likely strands will break from strain and vibration. Also the more strands the less a broken strand effects the current carrying capacity."

Excellent advice here. I agree with everything said....

RR

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[restorationrides]

second (run-on) paragraph analysis here...

"As far as soldering lugs to prevent corrosion. Yes it will help but unless they are done in a 0% humidity inert gas environment they will corrode from trapped gas and moisture. The reason most soldered connections fail is because of conductor breaks at soldered point. This lug is perfect example. One end fixed and cable vibrates or is some kind of strain. Cable will be in a strain unless it comes out straight from lug. Bends place side loads at solid point of lug. Even using cable clamps will not help the situation. It will just move the point of vibration stress. Soldered lugs will fail just like your broken conductor. Yes aircraft connections are soldered at the connectors, but. No crimp joint can equal the connection quality of a soldered joint. Aircraft harnesses are designed as whole to prevent conductor stress and vibration. They are wrapped and clamped in bundles to secure the conductors. Soldered lugs should not be used for Automotive use. Automotive harnesses are not designed the same as Aircraft harnesses."

------------

Okay, I don't agree with much of anything said here. Oh, where to start...

"0% humidity inert gas..."

Really? You're talking circuit boards for mil-spec! Using a rosin core solder with good surface prep and copious quantities of suitable flux paste are plenty sufficient for anything these connections will ever experience.

"Most conductor fails are at the soldered point...?"

Of course they are, because the soldered terminal is much stronger and usually more rigid than any wire could be. It's not a problem with the soldered terminal, it's a problem with vibration or strain in the harness...

"Cable will be in a strain unless it comes out straight from lug. Bends place side loads at solid point of lug. Even using cable clamps will not help the situation. It will just move the point of vibration stress. Soldered lugs will fail just like your broken conductor."

Strain does not care about the direction. Strain is reaction to stress. Stress is created by a force acting on an object. Any significant stress on that connector/wire is going to make it more likely to fail. That's the only part of this paragraph that I can semi-agree with.

"No crimp joint can equal the connection quality of a soldered joint."

After denigrating the idea that soldering the joints would be a good solution, you state here that you agree that soldering is the best way to go. You're confusing me...???

"Aircraft harnesses are designed as whole to prevent conductor stress and vibration. They are wrapped and clamped in bundles to secure the conductors."

I think you mean "manage" stress and vibration. Stress and vibration are going to occur regardless of what you do, but they will not be significantly impactful in a good harness design. And, the wrapping and clamping is for more than just managing stress and vibration. They also provide diagnostic and routing capabilities and even Fail-Safe capabilities in more critical designs...

"Soldered lugs should not be used for Automotive use. Automotive harnesses are not designed the same as Aircraft harnesses."

Umm, IMHO, I disagree. NO OFFENSE!

REGARDS,
RESTORATIONRIDES

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[SameGuy]

Looks like a nice and well thought out system. Some 'experts' may complain about some little nitpicky things but as stated before, it's not in a 747. I've made many large terminated battery cables, some with crimped lugs and some soldered with a torch, all holding fine and some over 18 years old. Open the engine bay of nearly any new car and notice the prodigious use of electrical tape. That was the go to method when I was a kid when installing stereos, never had one of those connections fail either, although I wouldn't do it today.

 

[JPaul]

The tape used in wiring harnesses though isn't your hardware store tape though, the vinyl used in it as well as the adhesive (if it even uses any) is formulated differently. It's also only used to bind the bundles together and provide additional abrasion resistance. It's not used to seal anything, for that they use weather proof connectors or adhesive lined heat shrink if it's a splice.

Personally I avoid using electrical tape as much as possible in an automotive environment, the vinyl is fine but the adhesive does not like anything over 80F for very long, and even with age it ends up unravelling and becoming a sticky mess.

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